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Car Advice?


Retired auto mechanic here with over 40 years experience.

My advice? Get yourself a Honda, Toyota or Subaru........ you'll thank me later.

My old mechanic (RIP Bill!) told me the exact same thing almost 30 years ago, minus the Subaru part. I have driven two new Hondas off the lot since he said that. 97 Civic 5 speed, and 2006 CRV. Both are still on the road and running like champs. The former is my son’s DD, the latter is mine.

This year when I had a convention in Tallahassee where I had to take two DBs and a passenger , I decided to rent a van for comfort and as a precaution, but I don’t doubt for a minute that the old gray goose would’ve gotten the job done if called upon.
 
My old mechanic (RIP Bill!) told me the exact same thing almost 30 years ago, minus the Subaru part. I have driven two new Hondas off the lot since he said that. 97 Civic 5 speed, and 2006 CRV. Both are still on the road and running like champs. The former is my son’s DD, the latter is mine.

This year when I had a convention in Tallahassee where I had to take two DBs and a passenger , I decided to rent a van for comfort and as a precaution, but I don’t doubt for a minute that the old gray goose would’ve gotten the job done if called upon.

Does your 06 CR/V have the factory picnic table? My 03 did.

I bought my 03 for $300, put a timing chain and brakes all around on it...... drove it for three years and sold it for $3500.

I miss it, but honestly my 04 Subaru Forester was better though out interior wise versus the 03 Honda. When I folded the rear seats down in the Subie, the floor was flat, unlike the Honda. I was able to fit more in the Subaru versus the CR/V.

What I did like about the Honda was the higher ride height.
 
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I would disagree. I believe EVs are a passing fad that have a very short future and will be difficult to get rid of.
Sadly, if that's the case, we'll all be dead. The science is quite clear about what happens if we don't stop burning crap.
 
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I recently went through the dealer/car buying experience helping my elderly parents, as my dad recently totaled their old SUV. Between prices, dealer tactics getting even sketchier at some places (especially a Honda dealer), it was a trial. Anyway, the Honda dealer sleazed his way out of selling a CR-V (adding "Diamond Ceramic Coating" for $995, obviously inventing stories about the car's history, high-pressure, and trying to get my mom to sign a purchase agreement while calling it an "acknowledgment," etc).

Which I think turned out for the best, as I'm weary of Honda's 1.5L turbo and CVT, especially as my parents live in a cold place and take a lot of short trips. I was also surprised how much I disliked driving the CR-V, finding it felt isolated and numb. That may be how most newer cars feel, though, especially SUVs. The experience put me off Honda, too, and at one point, I was a good candidate to be a lifelong Honda customer, as the 90 Accord and 2000 Accord Coupe were the second and third best cars I had..

Anyway, we wound up finding a low milage Toyota Rav4 at, surprisingly, a Jeep dealer that was more open and clear in the process.

Before that experience, I had been thinking of replacing my 2012 Mazda 3 (with a manual, and the best car I've had), as it's getting to the start-replacing-stuff stage (I've been quoted over $2K for a clutch), but now I'm thinking I'll try to keep it as long as I can. Perhaps my last manual will also be my last gas-powered car.
 
@Mike N maybe you can weigh in on something my mechanic says about newer cars. He hates the newer turbo engines. Something about too much compression making the lifespan shorter. He advises looking for models without turbo when shopping, and surprised me by looking online and finding and recommending a hybrid with a non turbo engine and saying “I would recommend this over their other models.”

Do you feel the same about turbo in general? At this point in life, I am a pretty tame driver. 99.9% of my driving is below 4000rpm, and most of it is 2-2500rpm
 
2000 Jeep Wrangler TJ 4.0 here - 13 mpg. It's still cheaper than the loan & insurance payments on a USED Tesla - forget new. I asked my mechanic about driving it to Texas to see my daughter next month - he said he doesn't trust new vehicles to make the trip. I decided to fly as the AC in it just can't keep up when the temp is above 90.

264-265k miles on it right now, still runs strong. Going to keep driving it until I can afford to upgrade, and then keep it as a runabout. What's nice is that I can fix most things on it if it isn't major.
 
If you get another used car consider going to a reputable used dealer like CarMax and getting a good warranty. My warranty cost next to nothing and I needed it within the first few months (radiator fan went out $800.00 and only cost me the $50.00 deductible).

Those warranties are gold.
 
@Mike N maybe you can weigh in on something my mechanic says about newer cars. He hates the newer turbo engines. Something about too much compression making the lifespan shorter. He advises looking for models without turbo when shopping, and surprised me by looking online and finding and recommending a hybrid with a non turbo engine and saying “I would recommend this over their other models.”

Do you feel the same about turbo in general? At this point in life, I am a pretty tame driver. 99.9% of my driving is below 4000rpm, and most of it is 2-2500rpm
I'm not Mike N, but my take on this is as follows:

How turbocharging works is to increase the brake mean effective pressure in the cylinders, thus increasing horsepower and torque from a smaller engine. Unavoidably, then, the loads on the bearings and piston rings will be higher for a given power output in a turbo or supercharged engine. Now, of course, the manufacturers increase the capacity of those elements in turbo engines, as well as providing extra cooling. Under normal loading, the average turbo engine can be expected to last as long as anyone would reasonably expect: let's say 20 years and 200,000 miles of "ordinary service". However - and here we move to speculation - I would expect that, if you look at engine life versus number of cars as a bell curve distribution, there'll be a "fatter left tail" of engines that wear out or fail earlier, amongst forced induction engines compared to normally aspirated.

Three other points about long term durability, though:

1) Every engine design, and every application, has weak points. So even though one can say something about an overall type of design, what's a lot more important is the detailed execution of it. That's where the scuttlebutt/grapevine/mechanic's experience comes in.

2) Long term durability is not the same thing as reliability. What really torques you off is when the thing spends five days every month in the shop. That's reliabilty, not long term durability, and I would expect that forced induction versus normally aspirated is much more a matter of long term durability. Sure, if the engine in your car wears out at 150,000 miles (those of us with hairy ears remember when that was only a fantasy for most), and your previous one went 300,000, you'll be disappointed, but it'll have taken you years to get there. It's the repeated incidents when the damn thing won't start for the tenth time, or the twentieth check engine light, that make you want to leave the thing in front of the dealer with the hood up and a sign "THIS CAR IS A LEMON".

3) And I'd bet that engine wear-out is almost never the cause of scrapping a car these days. Rust-out in the North, embrittlement and failure of plastic parts in the South, ancillary engine components all reaching end of life one after the other, inadequately shielded electronics becoming unreliable, big suspension or exhaust or fuel system bills, interior falling apart, inability to pass emissions check with consequent enormous repair costs - these are the things that are causing people to give up on an older car. I bet fewer than 10% of the unwrecked cars that go to scrap actually have worn out bearings, or cams worn flat, or broken or worn out piston rings, or burnt valves, and most of the ones that do have worn-out engines are due to owners who refuse to do periodic maintenance.

So personally, for a daily driver, I wouldn't be particularly scared of a turbo charged engine from a manufacturer with a good overall reliability record, but I'd just be aware that the possibility of shorter life is higher than with an all-things-equivalent normally aspirated engine.

Now if you want me to compare a Toyota with turbo to a Chrysler NA engine - no comparison - I'll take the Toyota.
 
Burning oil is planetary suicide.
Agreed, but as others have said, running an EV is just passing the fossil fuel use upstream. The charging infrastructure just isn't there yet, but I believe it will be someday. But recently I've had a few friends dump their EVs because they got stranded somewhere due to not having anywhere to charge their vehicles. Either there were no available public charging ports, or the ones they could find were out of service. The problem is that the companies that install those don't service them regularly or properly.
 
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Sadly, if that's the case, we'll all be dead. The science is quite clear about what happens if we don't stop burning crap.
Where do you think the electricity comes from to power your EV? Batteries only store energy, they don't create it.

Until wind and solar can keep up with energy demand, fossil fuels will continue to be a part of our daily way life.
 
@Mike N maybe you can weigh in on something my mechanic says about newer cars. He hates the newer turbo engines. Something about too much compression making the lifespan shorter. He advises looking for models without turbo when shopping, and surprised me by looking online and finding and recommending a hybrid with a non turbo engine and saying “I would recommend this over their other models.”

Do you feel the same about turbo in general? At this point in life, I am a pretty tame driver. 99.9% of my driving is below 4000rpm, and most of it is 2-2500rpm
With the push for gas mileage, many manufacturers have gone to small engines with a turbo to get decent power and economy.

For the average grocery getter, no problem.

But if you're buying the full size pickup with a 4 cylinder turbo engine and towing 10,000 lbs every weekend, you're going to burn that thing out and not a lot of guys are rebuilding those engines.

Used turbo engines command a premium, ask any Ford owner with the 3.5 liter EcoBoost..... a 100,000 mile engine will run you $5,000 and probably need every seal & gasket replaced by that point.

We had fun with a single turbo 406 in an 00 S-10. On a mild tune, it went 7.50's in the 1/4 mile. There was more left, but the chassis was only certified to 7.49 so we left well enough alone.
 
If you get another used car consider going to a reputable used dealer like CarMax and getting a good warranty. My warranty cost next to nothing and I needed it within the first few months (radiator fan went out $800.00 and only cost me the $50.00 deductible).

Those warranties are gold.
Aftermarket warranties are terrible, imo & ime..... with Car Shield leading the race to the bottom.

You (the consumer) may not be aware that many times the warranty company wants the shop to use the cheapest part possible and in many instances a used part. I had those clowns tell me more than once that they located a good used (insert part name here) one and I'd have it in a week.

Them they'd tell us that although Mitchell (they write the labor guides that are the industry standard) calls for 6 hours to replace the transmission (with a used one, naturally :rolleyes: ), our labor guide only allows 4 hours and we only cover $95 an hour labor, versus the $150+ that most shops are currently charging.

Bottom line for me is unless the warranty you're buying is factory backed, avoid the third party ones like the plague.
 
Well, EVs consume a lot of nonrenewable resources too.

In my case, all the fossil fuels I might want to consume over the rest of my life will be more than made up for, many times over, by the fossil fuels that won't be used by the descendants I'm not going to have.

Trying to come up with slightly more efficient ways to use nonrenewable resources is just rearranging the deck chairs on the sinking ship till the fundamental root cause is addressed - too many rats in the box.
The real solution would be no more (or many, many less) cars on the road, but we're unfortunately way past that option. More EVs really isn't going to help.
 
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I’m retiring next year. If all goes well, a number of long standing bill will paid off and I will also be able to cash on a ton of unused sick days. I need a car, and new and used car prices are going through the roof.

I am considering three options: buying a budget new car like a Kia Soul; buying a nicer used car, especially if I can purchase an extended warranty; finally, spend $7-$10k on my 2004 Nissan Xterra. The car needs new catalytic converters and a knock sensor, fix power steering leak, needs new struts and suspension, repair ac. The Xterra has 200k miles and I think I could another 100-150k if I fix it.
If you buy a used vehicle, check carcomplaints.com — it’s a great site to see if the make and model of a certain year is worth pursuing based on user satisfaction, repair history, etc.
 
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Aftermarket warranties are terrible, imo & ime..... with Car Shield leading the race to the bottom.

You (the consumer) may not be aware that many times the warranty company wants the shop to use the cheapest part possible and in many instances a used part. I had those clowns tell me more than once that they located a good used (insert part name here) one and I'd have it in a week.

Them they'd tell us that although Mitchell (they write the labor guides that are the industry standard) calls for 6 hours to replace the transmission (with a used one, naturally :rolleyes: ), our labor guide only allows 4 hours and we only cover $95 an hour labor, versus the $150+ that most shops are currently charging.

Bottom line for me is unless the warranty you're buying is factory backed, avoid the third party ones like the plague.
Truth. Aftermarket car (or house etc.) warranties are just putting money into an 'account' that you have to ask permission to use. A better use of your money would be opening a separate interest-bearing account at the bank then taking the money you would be putting into the warranty and putting it in that account. You make money from the interest, and you can withdraw it whenever you want.
 
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