Double Bass Carpenters glue removal

[ctregan]

I am trying to remove a top, that was glued on with carpenters glue.

Here is a picture through an f hole, showing the glue seam.

I have been using vinegar with a brush, then working it with a knife.

It take about 5 minutes to loosen up 10 cm of the top. Thankfully, no mishaps yet.

So my talkbass question is.... does anyone have some tips, or methods, they use in these situations?

It is a nice bass and I don't want to mess it up. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

[kurt ratering]

maybe try warming the knife?

 

[arnoldschnitzer]

Also brush your mixture on the inside of the seams, and tilt to help it work on the glue. No matter what, you are going to have damage...

 

[Cody Sisk]

You might try finding a needle bottle or flux bottle to put some vinegar into and "shoot" onto the seam from the inside through the f-hole. Then rotate/tilt it as Arnold suggests. That might help loosen it from the other end.

 

[tez123]

Heat gun or hairdryer to warm the wood plus a hot thin spatuler and patience

 

[arnoldschnitzer]

You might try finding a needle bottle or flux bottle to put some vinegar into and "shoot" onto the seam from the inside through the f-hole. Then rotate/tilt it as Arnold suggests. That might help loosen it from the other end.

I use a long-handled brush and work through the endpin hole.

 

[Jazzdogg]

I find that glacial acetic acid is more effective than regular vinegar.

When I need to disassemble a glued joint, I often use the wand of a garment steamer to direct moist heat where needed.

 

[fdeck]

Has anybody thought of the idea of heating up the knife blade, e.g., with a mild electric heater?

 

[Jake deVilliers]

Has anybody thought of the idea of heating up the knife blade, e.g., with a mild electric heater?

Yeah - you could cut the middle out of an older style Weller soldering gun and heat it directly. Works great for heating frets for removal - oops, wrong forum!

 

[ctregan]

Thanks for all the good advise. The top is off.

I found a stamp on the inside of the top that says Franz Wilfer. Could this be related to the Wilfers who made Jesuk basses?

Here are some other photos of the bass. Maybe someone more knowledge than I, could add some input (date?). The only other tag says "Stradivarius Reproduction" and "Made in Germany" It is a well made instrument, with excellent choice of materials. Oh, one more thing; it has an integral bass bar (that is holding up well).

Thanks again for the help.

 

[jonas]

Anyway, I found a stamp on the inside of the top that says Franz Wilfer. Could this be related to the Wilfers who made Jesuk basses?

No, they aren't related. BTW, it's Juzek, not Jesuk.
www.wilfer-geigenbau.de

 

[Mike Goodbar]

Oh, one more thing; it has an integral bass bar (that is holding up well).

I'm wondering if you plan to shave off integral bar and glue in a replacement? I understand that this upgrade really helps to improve tone and projection.

 

[jonas]

I'm wondering if you plan to shave off integral bar and glue in a replacement? I understand that this upgrade really helps to improve tone and projection.

not necessarily.

 

[ctregan]

I'm wondering if you plan to shave off integral bar and glue in a replacement? I understand that this upgrade really helps to improve tone and projection.

The top is in great shape, with no depressions around the Bass bar area, and, the bass has great tone. These two factors, tell me, to keep things as they are.

Also, the top seems to be a lot thicker than your average bass, but, I do not plan on changing that either.

 

[jonas]

The top is in great shape, with no depressions around the Bass bar area, and, the bass has great tone. These two factors, tell me, to keep things as they are.

I wouldn't change it, either.

BTW: We have a bass maker here in Germany (Heiner Windelband) who makes all his *new* basses with integrated bass bar, because he likes to have no spring/tension at all at the bass bar.