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Carvin BX500: Pt. 3
- Thread starter Chef
- Start date
The mothership broadcast power is fine, that's why the preamp section still works.
They quoted me $225 + shipping for repairing it. The repair is warranteed for 90 days. I'm going to pass.
They quoted me $225 + shipping for repairing it. The repair is warranteed for 90 days. I'm going to pass.
Hey all
I bought my BX500 here off the classifieds a year or two ago, and had no issues with it until this winter. Every once in awhile, right when I turned the amplifier on, it wouldn't have full power (in fact it would be extremely quiet and fuzzy and distorted) and when I would play a note particularly hard it would give a 'pop' sound. I isolated the cab (Aguilar GS112) with another setup to make sure it was okay, and I'm sure the problem is somewhere in the head.
I had posted a thread about running my computer through the rig for bass-heavy music, and decided that since I never put the volume above 3 on the head that it wouldn't be a problem, but I did crank the lows on the graphic EQ so it's possible that could have damaged the head.
I've read through alot (although not all) of the multiple threads for the head and haven't found anyone with a problem exactly like it, if anyone has any idea about where to go from here it would be greatly appreciated
I bought my BX500 here off the classifieds a year or two ago, and had no issues with it until this winter. Every once in awhile, right when I turned the amplifier on, it wouldn't have full power (in fact it would be extremely quiet and fuzzy and distorted) and when I would play a note particularly hard it would give a 'pop' sound. I isolated the cab (Aguilar GS112) with another setup to make sure it was okay, and I'm sure the problem is somewhere in the head.
I had posted a thread about running my computer through the rig for bass-heavy music, and decided that since I never put the volume above 3 on the head that it wouldn't be a problem, but I did crank the lows on the graphic EQ so it's possible that could have damaged the head.
I've read through alot (although not all) of the multiple threads for the head and haven't found anyone with a problem exactly like it, if anyone has any idea about where to go from here it would be greatly appreciated
You're not the only one. I have the exact same problem. I figure it's either a loose power jack or one of those infamous ribbon cables.irishpride28 said:
It happens to me when I move mine from one place to another. Last time I just fixed it by facing the control side upwards and then placing it back on its rubber feet. So it's definitely an issue about moving parts.
YES. This is exactly the case, it would usually work itself out at some point until I drove it home from college for the summer. It spent ~5 hours on it's side in the car, and if it is about a moving part as you say than I fear this may have been the straw that broke the camel's back. Have you opened yours up ever? Do you have any idea what piece is causing yours to malfunction?
I have not opened it yet. Unfortunately we're on the same boat so if I open it now I wouldn't know exactly what to look for. But like I said, it could be the power input jack or a bad ribbon cable connection causing the head to cut power as it moves?irishpride28 said:
I did a quick search for 'ribbon cable' but no titles so I don't know exactly what the deal is with those. Does anybody here know if faulty ribbon cable connections cause this problem, or is it something else entirely?
Tomorrow I'll run it through the headphone output with no cab to see if it's clean through that, while I don't personally know what that would mean hopefully someone more knowledgeable would be able to chime in
I sincerely doubt it’s a ribbon cable thing. That would suggest some type of trauma was inflicted on the head. It would also suggest that other manufacturers use similar ribbon cables, because they are having similar problems with class D amps. The power source seems to be the most common culprit. Whether it be old bars or long extension cords, class D amps seems to be more sensitive to fluctuations in voltage. That would explain why some people have problems and others don’t, IMO. There’s still a learning curve going on with these amps for the manufacturers (also IMO), who are simultaneously trying to keep the weight down, the power up, and the price down. Tough business.
> and the price down
Jeff, I think you nailed it there. It's the price point that's the troublemaker.
The following has little or nothing to do with Carvin, it's just general observation: I think another problem in the industry is component quality, and perhaps contributing to that is component authenticity. Lots of fakes floating around out there, sometimes with all the proper markings. Which wholesale supplier can I trust to guarantee me everything I buy is 100% authentic, not some sweat shop knockoff? Does one even exist? Who today is 100% non-foolable? Suppose I do find a trustworthy supplier -- will the bean counters even let me write purchase orders to specify that supplier exclusively? Worse: Will they in fact let me, but then, with shameless premeditation, direct the purchasing department to override my supplier spec just before the order goes out, without my knowing about it? (Yes, that sort of corporate sleaze does occur.) I don't know the answer to those questions.
Jeff, I think you nailed it there. It's the price point that's the troublemaker.
The following has little or nothing to do with Carvin, it's just general observation: I think another problem in the industry is component quality, and perhaps contributing to that is component authenticity. Lots of fakes floating around out there, sometimes with all the proper markings. Which wholesale supplier can I trust to guarantee me everything I buy is 100% authentic, not some sweat shop knockoff? Does one even exist? Who today is 100% non-foolable? Suppose I do find a trustworthy supplier -- will the bean counters even let me write purchase orders to specify that supplier exclusively? Worse: Will they in fact let me, but then, with shameless premeditation, direct the purchasing department to override my supplier spec just before the order goes out, without my knowing about it? (Yes, that sort of corporate sleaze does occur.) I don't know the answer to those questions.
I agree with all of that. Unfortunately, without some type of government intervention (no), manufacturers are never going to release failure rates to the public so people are going to weigh the risk against the price/performance. Working in IT, I can tell you that testing code is always a matter of “how much”? A full parallel with production? Too expensive, and in the amp world means trying to replicate almost every conceivable environmental/user factor. I may run 50 thousand records through an altered process trying to test 10 different situations, and this may be all the bosses want to invest in. When the process moves to production, 20 million transactions are going to run through it with 500 different situations. That’s what happens when an amp hits the market. Knowing how something SHOULD work helps, but there’s always little ticking time bombs out there unaccounted for. This is why I always preach dragging a backup amp with you if you gig. Class D amps are cheap and small so it’s fairly painless to purchase/carry a backup. Carvin BX250, GK MB200, they fit in the pocket of your gig bag! It is what it is but I feel the quality of these amps will continue to improve because the users demand it.
What is interesting is that I purchased a BX500 and am having no problems with it. I bought it because my Tec Sound systems head was doing what the BX500 is doing for some of the posters in this thread. The Tec amp is not a class D amp and is at a much much higher price point as well.
The mothership broadcast power is fine, that's why the preamp section still works.
They quoted me $225 + shipping for repairing it. The repair is warranteed for 90 days. I'm going to pass.
I kinda feel your pain. I had a R1000 that died out of warranty :scowl:
Same thing front end, power section works fine so, like a maybe fool I went back to Carvin and bought a B1500 to replace the R1000 core
Had a hiccup a few months down the road. Thought I got burned
Ribbon connector hell for a minute. Fix it while on the phone with a tech from Carvin
He had never heard of the ribbon cable debacle that theses amps seem to display once in a while
All is well
so far... 
Since I have been in mine ( I know I have a B1500 and we are talkin' 'bout B500 but I feel the construction is the same )
the ribbon cables connectors don't click into place, they are just press fit, so they can come loose and it seems that it doesn't take that much to move 'em and cause trouble.
I am thinking about adding a blob of silicon glue to the outside of the connectors. Not enough to seal it, just enough to hold them in place. Kinda like some of the other components in there already
Maybe they should start doin' this from the factory
Hey Carvin are you Listening !!! Any opinion on this?
Doubt that - Carvin is notorious for this. My R1000 had these issues as recently did my BX1500. Go on the Carvin BBS site and it's riddled with posts about this problem.
My amp guy does a complete bench check for $50.00 cash. My BX1500 is perfect after this (got it back on Monday).
Don't get me wrong, I love my Carvin, but this has been and is a known issue.
Yeah, I was getting this fuzz and distortion stuff and I called 'em up. While I was on the phone waiting, I remember the ribbon cable business. the guy came on. I had him listen to it over the phone. I then asked him about the cables, he said he hadn't heard that one. I opened it up and as I did, it stops fuzzin'. There was a ribbon cable that comes from the preamp board that was causing the problem.
Jazzdogg
Less barking, more wagging!
Although Allen & Heath MixWiz mixers are reputed to have the same problem with ribbon cables working their way loose from time to time, I've been gigging mine for more than 5 years without a problem.
I periodically open up my mixer, pull the ribbon connectors, inspect and clean them, hit key parts with Deoxit, re-seat the ribbon connectors, vacuum out dust, etc. I have heard of cases in which a user has secured the ribbon connectors with small zip ties, but I haven't tried it myself.
Reseating the connectors is no big thing - if you have room to work, and you take steps to prevent electrocution. If you're out of warranty, you've got nothing to loose by trying - as long as you put safety first.
I periodically open up my mixer, pull the ribbon connectors, inspect and clean them, hit key parts with Deoxit, re-seat the ribbon connectors, vacuum out dust, etc. I have heard of cases in which a user has secured the ribbon connectors with small zip ties, but I haven't tried it myself.
Reseating the connectors is no big thing - if you have room to work, and you take steps to prevent electrocution. If you're out of warranty, you've got nothing to loose by trying - as long as you put safety first.
Before I retired, the company that I worked for had us use a glue gun to keep certain connectors in place. It didn't call for much, and it remedied the previous problem that we had. We only used a couple of drops and it worked fine. Also, if it was necessary to remove the cables it was very easy. Don't know why I didn't think of this earlier.
I had the exact same problem---low power, distorted sound. I hit the cable connectors with a little Deoxit and it's been fine ever since.
