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Carvin SB5000 vs Carvin SB5001

Latinferno

Latinferno

May 19, 2010
290
8
Lompoc
www.backmask.com
#1
I'm considering having a Carvin bass built and wanted to know if anyone noticed a tone difference between the Carvin SB5000 vs Carvin SB5001 (Chambered) Bass. Less weight is always a bonus, but I'd hate to sacrifice tone as a result.

Also, if anyone has first hand experience/pictures of a Figured Claro Walnut top. I'm curious to know what are the characteristics of this wood vs flame/quilted Maple? (other than a brighter tone in the upper register with a "darker growling" low end). Soundclips?
 
#3
I have never played this particular Carvin model but I own several closed top chambered body basses. I find chambered basses to have a clearer resonance adding a more open tone to the instrument. Generally a figured top is so thin it has little impact on tone. The core body wood and especially the fingerboard colors tone the most.
 
#6
Yes, I was just reading a Roger Sadowsky quote in which he says he noticed his basses were getting heavier with the Ash he was able to get, so he started to chamber them primarily to reduce weight.
Turned out many of his players with older solid and the new chambered models told him the chambered sounded better.
 
#8
I own a 4000 that is chambered. You can choose chambering as an option if you aren't trying to spring for the fancy top.

I asked for lightweight alder and then had it chambered. The weight is great and I don't feel my tone sacrificed at all. Good luck. Carvin is a great instrument. Maybe look for a used one to see if you like it. Nothing like drippoing $1500 to find out you don't like something. Resale is not very high. Good luck!
 
#9
JoeVictim said:
I own a 4000 that is chambered. You can choose chambering as an option if you aren't trying to spring for the fancy top.

I asked for lightweight alder and then had it chambered. The weight is great and I don't feel my tone sacrificed at all. Good luck. Carvin is a great instrument. Maybe look for a used one to see if you like it. Nothing like drippoing $1500 to find out you don't like something. Resale is not very high. Good luck!
Click to expand...

This is what I'm trying to AVOID. lol I found a used one but it's an Alder body (I want Ash) and is the "basic" model (paint/chrome hardware etc). I'm trying to get as much info on these basses as possibly because I keep thinking "Why drop $800 or so on a "Basic" SB5000 and like/dislike a bass"? Either way I'll be kicking myself b/c:

A. I could have used the money on a NEW bass with all my specifications.

B. I'll have to sell the bass in hopes of getting most of my $ back from buying used (or new) if I don't like it.

Either way it's a gamble since no two instruments surely sound alike. But every sound clip I've checked out on youtube sound KILLER. I don't think I'll be disappointed, but want to get others opinions :D
 
#11
I have a B40, which has the same electronics as the SB series, in ash and it does sound killer, I have a few bass covers on YouTube using it, and I can dial in any tone I want with the J99's. I can't say anything in chambered or solid, but go for Carvin, you won't be disappointed!!

EDIT: It's also only 8.5 pounds on the bathroom scale for a solid body.
 
#15
You get 10 days to return it if you don't like it, you just have to wait the 2-3 months to get it. Honestly, I highly recommend you do, if weight matters, chamber it. I would chamber mine if I built one. Tone woods are overrated, I did some research when building my Carvin LB76 and I am glad I decided on swamp ash, weight was a factor for me, and this bass is super light. The tone is thunderous.

I bet if you did a side by side on a 5000 and a 5001 nobody could tell a difference, those that tried would be guessing.

The fingerboard however, I will concede does make a big difference in tone.

A couple things about Carvin, their painted necks are awesome, no stick at all, I was worried about that, the neck shreds. Also, their B string is AMAZING I cannot stress that enough, I have only played a Dingwall B that even compared.
 
#16
DiabolusInMusic said:
You get 10 days to return it if you don't like it, you just have to wait the 2-3 months to get it. Honestly, I highly recommend you do, if weight matters, chamber it. I would chamber mine if I built one. Tone woods are overrated, I did some research when building my Carvin LB76 and I am glad I decided on swamp ash, weight was a factor for me, and this bass is super light. The tone is thunderous.

I bet if you did a side by side on a 5000 and a 5001 nobody could tell a difference, those that tried would be guessing.

The fingerboard however, I will concede does make a big difference in tone.

A couple things about Carvin, their painted necks are awesome, no stick at all, I was worried about that, the neck shreds. Also, their B string is AMAZING I cannot stress that enough, I have only played a Dingwall B that even compared.
Click to expand...

Awesome. Thanks for the input. I thought about what type of neck finish I would get, but I doubt I would get a painted neck if I were to have a chambered SB5001 since I would select Ash for the body and get a figured Walnut top.

I do insist on getting a Birdseye Maple Fretboard though because I love the brightness and figured this would work perfectly with the walnut top (given this might have less mids and more growl than a flamed/quilted top). Depending on the options, it would run between $1800-$2,300 so I want to make sure I do it right the FIRST time.

Thanks again for the info. Hopefully I get other Carvin SB5000/5001 owners to respond before I take the plunge :D
 
#17
I believe the figured tops do not start to make a tonal difference until they are about a 1/4" thick. Carvins tops are not that thick.

The ash SBs are fantastic...
Modern take on 70s J with growl for days...I have 2 of them.
 
#18
basswave said:
I believe the figured tops do not start to make a tonal difference until they are about a 1/4" thick. Carvins tops are not that thick.

The ash SBs are fantastic...
Modern take on 70s J with growl for days...I have 2 of them.
Click to expand...


Awesome. What do you think would be the best option for the back of the bass? I'm thinking paint would be an odd choice but don't want to have a "two tone" effect either (Ash body and Walnut top).

Also what do you think about the neck options? I dig the Walnut neck with the maple stripes but am hesitant to go with "natural" wood because I love the feel of a painted neck like all of my Spectors (as opposed to the "natural" wood on both my MTD 435, Warwick Corvette Standard 5 and Musicman Stingray bass). Thoughts?
 
#19
Latinferno said:
Awesome. What do you think would be the best option for the back of the bass? I'm thinking paint would be an odd choice but don't want to have a "two tone" effect either (Ash body and Walnut top).

Also what do you think about the neck options? I dig the Walnut neck with the maple stripes but am hesitant to go with "natural" wood because I love the feel of a painted neck like all of my Spectors (as opposed to the "natural" wood on both my MTD 435, Warwick Corvette Standard 5 and Musicman Stingray bass). Thoughts?
Click to expand...

To be honest 'black' back is probably the most subtle IMHO with the Walnut top. However thats a tough call. That what I would do, but when you put the order in, I suggest you do it on the phone and get the opinion of one of the guitar sales specialists.

As far as the neck...;)

I highly recommend the 'clear gloss' option to the back of the neck.
Especially if you don't mind painted necks.

It adds another layer of protection from moisture, ect...Note...I'm not sure if that option is available for Walnut (I would check) ...but Its worth looking into.

You could get stringers and still see them with the gloss.

Another preference for me is 'Low wide frets' you can lower action and better intonation with the low wide. Larger frets to me fell like I'm playing a cheap ESP metal bass or something. (Note: not knocking overseas instruments...Just not digging large frets)

Good luck and let us know what you end up ordering.
 
#20
basswave said:
To be honest 'black' back is probably the most subtle IMHO with the Walnut top. However thats a tough call. That what I would do, but when you put the order in, I suggest you do it on the phone and get the opinion of one of the guitar sales specialists.

As far as the neck...;)

I highly recommend the 'clear gloss' option to the back of the neck.
Especially if you don't mind painted necks.

It adds another layer of protection from moisture, ect...Note...I'm not sure if that option is available for Walnut (I would check) ...but Its worth looking into.

You could get stringers and still see them with the gloss.

Another preference for me is 'Low wide frets' you can lower action and better intonation with the low wide. Larger frets to me fell like I'm playing a cheap ESP metal bass or something. (Note: not knocking overseas instruments...Just not digging large frets)

Good luck and let us know what you end up ordering.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice. I too am curious about the fret size. I see the standard is "med/jumbo" but I'm glad you provided the information about the "Large" frets. Most of my basses have really nice fret size so I never really thought about it. In this case size does matter!! Haha! Sounds like the "low wide frets" would be the way to go. Stainless steel would probably be best as well :D
 

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