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Celestion Pulse XL 10.40 Cab

Also, yes you could run your cab off one of the stereos channels. Remember, if you play your A speakers with your cab on one of the B speaker outputs together, the stereo will see the two speakers in parallel. So assuming speaker A is 8 ohm and your cab is 8 ohm, that channel, whether it be the left or right, will see a 4 ohm load.
 
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Don’t do this unless you want to destroy your amp. RCA speaker jacks were used by some low end models for convenience but caused more problems than they solved.
It looks like this one was converted to RCA when they probably lost the speaker plugs like in this vid

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signal-2024-09-12-170349_002.jpeg
signal-2024-09-12-170349_003.jpeg

And mine looks like this
 
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Also, yes you could run your cab off one of the stereos channels. Remember, if you play your A speakers with your cab on one of the B speaker outputs together, the stereo will see the two speakers in parallel. So assuming speaker A is 8 ohm and your cab is 8 ohm, that channel, whether it be the left or right, will see a 4 ohm load.
OK, Hence that silver 'CAUTION' sticker on the back of the amp I guess
 
What about this kind of thing?

The Rane link in post 2 ([Invalid or Expired Link Removed]) is dead but good old WayBackMachine comes to the rescue:


Or will those resistors mess up the 8 ohm impedance?


-------------

Why Not Wye?​


Dennis Bohn, Rane​


RaneNote 109 written 1991; last revised 4/04​


  • Splitting Signals
  • Subwoofing in Mono
  • Unbalanced Summing
  • Balanced Summing
  • Output Impedances

Introduction​


Wye-connectors (or "Y"-connectors, if you prefer) should never have been created.


Anything that can be hooked-up wrong, will be. You-know-who said that, and she was right. A wye-connector used to split a signal into two lines is being used properly; a wye-connector used to mix two signals into one is being abused and may even damage the equipment involved.


Here is the rule: Outputs are low impedance and must only be connected to high impedance inputs -- never, never tie two outputs directly together -- never. If you do, then each output tries to drive the very low impedance of the other, forcing both outputs into current-limit and possible damage. As a minimum, severe signal loss results.


Monoing Your Low End​


One of the most common examples of tying two outputs together is in "monoing" the low end of multiway active crossover systems. This combined signal is then used to drive a sub-woofer system.


Since low frequencies below about 100Hz have such long wavelengths (several feet), it is very difficult to tell where they are coming from (like some of your friends). They are just there -- everywhere. Due to this phenomenon, a single sub-woofer system is a popular cost-effective way to add low frequency energy to small systems.


So the question arises as how best to do the monoing, or summing, of the two signals? It is done very easily by tying the two low frequency outputs of your crossovers together using the resistive networks described below. You do not do it with a wye-cord.


Summing Boxes​


Unbalanced Summing Box​


Figure 1 shows the required network for sources with Invalid Link Removed outputs. Two resistors tie each input together to the junction of a third resistor, which connects to signal common. This is routed to the single output jack. The resistor values can vary about those shown over a wide range and not change things much. As designed, the input [Invalid or Expired Link Removed] is about 1k ohms and the line driving output impedance is around 250 ohms. The output impedance is small enough that long lines may still be driven, even though this is a passive box. The input impedance is really quite low and requires 600 ohm line-driving capability from the crossover, but this should not create problems for modern active crossover units.


1726157829414.png


Figure 1. Unbalanced Summing Box​


The rings are tied to each other, as are the sleeves; however, the rings and sleeves are not tied together. Floating the output in this manner makes the box compatible with either Invalid Link Removed or unbalanced systems. It also makes the box ambidextrous: It is now compatible with either unbalanced (mono, 1-wire) or balanced (stereo, 2-wire) 1/4" cables. Using mono cables shorts the ring to the sleeve and the box acts as a normal unbalanced system; while using stereo cables takes full advantage of the floating benefits.


Stereo-to-Mono Summing Box​


Figure 2 shows a network for combining a stereo input to a mono output. The input and output are either a 1/4" TRS, or a mini 1/8" TRS jack. The comments regarding values for Figure 1 apply equally here.


1726157852039.png


Figure 2. Stereo-to-Mono Summing Box​


Balanced Summing Boxes​


Figures 3 and 4 show wiring and parts for creating a balanced summing box. The design is a natural extension of that appearing in Figure 1. Here both the tip (pin 2, positive) and the ring (pin 3, negative) tie together through the resistive networks shown. Use at least 1% matched resistors. Any mismatch between like-valued resistors degrades the common-mode rejection capability of the system.


1726157894145.png


Figure 3. Balanced summing box using XLR connectors​


1726157921984.png


Figure 4. Balanced summing box using 1/4" TRS connectors​


Termites in the Woodpile​


Life is wonderful and then you stub your toe. The corner of the dresser lurking in the night of this Note has to do with applications where you want to sum two outputs together and you want to continue to use each of these outputs separately. If all you want to do is sum two outputs together and use only the summed results (the usual application), skip this section.


The problem arising from using all three outputs (the two original and the new summed output) is one of channel separation, or [Invalid or Expired Link Removed]. If the driving unit truly has zero output impedance, than channel separation is not degraded by using this summing box. However, when dealing with real-world units you deal with finite output impedances (ranging from a low of 47 ohms to a high of 600 ohms). Even a low output impedance of 47 ohms produces a startling channel separation spec of only 27 dB, i.e., the unwanted channel is only 27 dB below the desired signal. (Technical details: the unwanted channel, driving through the summing network, looks like 1011.3 ohms driving the 47 ohms output impedance of the desired channel, producing 27 dB of crosstalk.)


Now 27 dB isn't as bad as first imagined. To put this into perspective, remember that even the best of the old phono cartridges had channel separation specs of about this same magnitude. Therefore stereo separation is maintained at about the same level as a high-qualifty hi-fi home system of the '70s.


For professional systems this may not be enough. If a trade-off is acceptable, things can be improved. If you scale all the resistors up by a factor of 10, then channel separation improves from 27 dB to 46 dB. As always though, this improvement is not free. The price is paid in reduced line driving capability. The box now has high output impedance, which prevents driving long lines. Driving a maximum of 3000 pF capacitance is the realistic limit. This amounts to only 60 feet of 50 pF/foot cable, a reasonable figure. So, if your system can stand a limitation of driving less than 60 feet, scaling the resistors is an option for increased channel separation.


PDF
"Why Not Wye?" Download this note as PDF.
 
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Absolutely no. Your missing the point that most amplifiers/receivers don't use RCAs for speaker outputs. So looking at things like that, that use RCA connectors, are for preamp level voltages.

Forgot trying to run that cab off of that stereo, you got lucky it didn't toast it.

To get what your after it's gonna take a lot more that just hooking up a cable.
Not always. There were older receivers that used RCA jacks for speaker outputs.

It’s very much a possibility.
 
Almost all line level outputs (not speaker level) can be safely combined with a Y cord because the build-out resistors are built into the output circuit.

The Rane notes are for different types of outputs intended drive very long lines at low impedances. This is unrelated to most domestic “hi-fi” systems.
 
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Almost all line level outputs (not speaker level) can be safely combines with a Y cord because the build-out resistors are built into the output circuit.

The Rane notes are for different types of outputs intended drive very long lines at low impedances. This is unrelated to most domestic “hi-fi” systems.
Thanks @agedhorse
I will let this one lie then - and that's hard for me to do :laugh:
Pity
or I should more correctly say, 'BUGGER!'
 
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Not always. There were older receivers that used RCA jacks for speaker outputs.

It’s very much a possibility.
But I think in this case, given the amateur aspect of the RCA outputs with wood, hand written L & R in biro and pop-rivets in my photos and the fact that the originals have easily loosable plugs, that the outputs I am using are normal speaker outputs.

But seems to be a possibility in other cases, from what you say
 
Not always. There were older receivers that used RCA jacks for speaker outputs.

It’s very much a possibility.
Exactly, hence why I said most. (I had one...long long time ago)
Which upon remembering that, I watched it go up in smoke when lightning hit my house. Also my buddy was playing my bass through his guitar amp and was literally shocked when it happened! Didn't kill the guitar amp...or him! Crazy night.

I understand his does, that's why I stated most things RCA now are all line level/ preamp level stuff, not gonna work for what he's trying to do.
 
That was going to be my next suggestion.
Unless it unhooks the internal speaker, you probably can't do that with the Markbass.
Although, if you end up with a stand alone head, it'd be great. Most amps will support 4ohm.
I say...do it🤘🏼
 
That was going to be my next suggestion.
Unless it unhooks the internal speaker, you probably can't do that with the Markbass.
Although, if you end up with a stand alone head, it'd be great. Most amps will support 4ohm.
I say...do it🤘🏼
There is a switch to cut off the internal speaker but it says min 8 Ohm for the external speaker
I am trying to find out the exact model of the head I am getting
I just know it is a Trace Elliot AH something, maybe a 600 or 500, with a silver casing

So, since you mention 4 ohms then you just connect two cabs in parallel?
I will have to save my pennies, but I am sorely tempted.
I could do the second one much quicker, and probly a bit cheaper too

PS thanks for being The Voice of Reason and dissuading me from such a daft idea
 
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Yes, parallel. Either your amplifier would have two outputs or install a jack plate on the next cab you build that has two jacks wired parallel. Maybe even go back and retrofit that into the cab you have now.

It's always easier to build the second one. Save up, you'll be glad you did.
 
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Still no second Build - too busy practicing!
I am still crap tho

The cleaning lady dropped a bottle of 'neat' bleach from height in the living room (tiled luckily) and I have just noticed that it must have splashed the driver of my cab (see below)

I thought of washing it off carefully but I only noticed 5 hours after she did it, so thought it wasnt worth it and best to leave well alone

I wonder if it will burn holes in cone or later make it fail under load?

I quite like the look though, but dont suggest it as a way of customising


From their site

Cone material - Cellulose

A fabric dust dome contributes to a particularly articulate treble response.



signal-2024-11-29-164758.jpeg


signal-2024-11-29-164758_002.jpeg
 
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