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changed strings, dramatic change in action

M

mightypants

May 22, 2009
48
0
#1
I just changed the strings on my standard Fender J, and after doing so, the action seems to have changed dramatically. Everything seems higher, especially the E string. Any thoughts on why this might be?

This is a fairly new bass, and this was the first time I've changed the strings since I had it set up (over a year ago). I'm not 100% sure I matched the gauge of the strings that were on it before, so that might be it. I didn't make note of the gauge when I picked my bass up from the shop, but I thought the guy said they used regular/medium, so I bought Ernie Ball Regulars. (I haven't been playing bass very long, so I haven't established preferred gauge yet.) But if a change in gauge was to blame for the issue, I'm not sure why it would be noticeably worse on the E.

I might try lowering the action myself, but I tried that once before (on a different bass), and it didn't go so well. Of course, it may just be time for a setup anyway, but if I go that route I'll have wasted the $20 I spent on the new set of strings.

Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.
 
#4
Yeah I wouldn't go just lowering things and turning things if your not sure what your doing. :hiding:

Sorry but he says pretty clearly he's not real sure what to do and says he may try and do it himself and that the last time it didn't go so well.

To the OP your gonna need some basic tools at a minimum if you want to try and correct this issue yourself, and you are definitely fully capable of doing so but first things first take 10 bucks and run up to Harbor Freight Tools (Cheapest) or Lowe's or Home Depot.

Get a Feeler Gauge, and a 6 inch scale (Measuring stick) that reads in 64th's and 32nd's of an inch.
011-6.jpg

The picture shows you the feeler gauge all the way to the right, and the 6" straight scale in the middle. If you don't have them get them.
Once you have them watch these videos and save yourself the pointless cost of a set up. You can definitely do your own.
I'd skip the third video where he talks about filing the nut, don't get carried away. But steps #1 #2 & #4 are very easy to understand.
Invalid Link Removed
Setting Up Your Bass Guitar: Bridge Action Height Adjustment (Step 2 of 4) - YouTube
Setting Up Your Bass Guitar: Nut Action Height Adjustment (Step 3 of 4) - YouTube
Setting Up Your Bass Guitar: Intonation Adjustment (Step 4 of 4) - YouTube

Good luck with it, I hope your able to get it sorted out.
 
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#5
Thanks, everyone, for the info and suggestions. I think I will go and pick up the tools mentioned (the scale and feeler gauge, I have allen wrenches and appropriate screw drivers already), and give this a go. If I can't get it right I can always take it into the shop.
 
#6
Watch the videos I posted they are extremely easy to follow and it's what I used to set up my 62 J Bass.
I will say this when I followed these same guide lines on my Squier it was a bit too low and left me with a little fret buzz.

If this happens just go up 1/2 -1 millimeter per string when doing the action at the bridge, with the saddle height adjustment.

He uses a capo in the video for the truss rod adjustment, You can use anything to hold down the strings at the first fret. If you do have one even better.

But watch the videos and be sure to be easy on your truss rod don't overdue it. Righty/tighty & lefty/loosy and only small 1/8th turns and then check it. You may have to do it a few times, but the troubles with doing it a few times is a much better trouble to have than a broken truss rod.

Good luck, You'll be glad you learned how to do this and you'll never have to pay for another set up again unless you absolutely want to.
 
#7
There's also the chance that your new strings are a heavier gauge (larger diameter) and aren't sitting in the nut slots correctly. That would give you the "feel" that your action is much higher...

Or you may have higher tension strings and need to adjust your truss rod a little.
 
#8
The reason is went all wonky is because you took off all of the strings when you changed them. Always leave one string on at tension when changing strings. The bass truss rod is under such tension that the neck will bow without it. When a bass is shipped from the factory they always tune it up because of this issue.

Your bass now needs a proper setup. It is very easy to do but take it to a pro for your first one so you can see how you like a proper setup.

Read the stickies, I highly recommend Jerzy Drozd's setup guide. Read the whole PDF first before you touch anything. Changing strings brands will not affect setup, changing the gauge or flats to rounds should not drastically change the setup, not enough that you can feel it, unless the gauge increased drastically.
 
#9
Lotsa good advice, above.

I've found a couple Stewart-MacDonald tools to be helpful, also. They sell precision straightedges that are handy for measuring relief. Yeah, a few bucks...but I don't have to wonder if maybe the feeler gauge is pushing the capoed string up a little and I'm not noticing it. The straightedge won't flex in that direction, so I can be precise in measuring the relief.

And I like their action height gauge, too. It sets flat on a few frets at a time, so I don't have pay attention to whether I've got the machinist's ruler tilted a little.

You can do a perfectly good setup without these, as folks noted above! But after I got into doing my own setups, I figured these tools were worth the jingle.
 
#10
DiabolusInMusic said:
The reason is went all wonky is because you took off all of the strings when you changed them. Always leave one string on at tension when changing strings. The bass truss rod is under such tension that the neck will bow without it. When a bass is shipped from the factory they always tune it up because of this issue.
Click to expand...

That's just plain wrong. Please don't post BS like this. :rollno:
 
#11
DiabolusInMusic said:
The reason is went all wonky is because you took off all of the strings when you changed them. Always leave one string on at tension when changing strings. The bass truss rod is under such tension that the neck will bow without it. When a bass is shipped from the factory they always tune it up because of this issue.

Your bass now needs a proper setup. It is very easy to do but take it to a pro for your first one so you can see how you like a proper setup.

Read the stickies, I highly recommend Jerzy Drozd's setup guide. Read the whole PDF first before you touch anything. Changing strings brands will not affect setup, changing the gauge or flats to rounds should not drastically change the setup, not enough that you can feel it, unless the gauge increased drastically.
Click to expand...

Sorry but the only correct point is the one in bold.
 
#12
DiabolusInMusic said:
The reason is went all wonky is because you took off all of the strings when you changed them. Always leave one string on at tension when changing strings. The bass truss rod is under such tension that the neck will bow without it. When a bass is shipped from the factory they always tune it up because of this issue.

Your bass now needs a proper setup. It is very easy to do but take it to a pro for your first one so you can see how you like a proper setup.

Read the stickies, I highly recommend Jerzy Drozd's setup guide. Read the whole PDF first before you touch anything. Changing strings brands will not affect setup, changing the gauge or flats to rounds should not drastically change the setup, not enough that you can feel it, unless the gauge increased drastically.
Click to expand...

The only correct advice in the above is:

"Your bass now needs a proper setup"
 
#13
thanks for posting the video links in the post above. Very helpful. But I do not agree in one point: I always lower the string tension before adjusting saddle height or truss rod. I do recommend this to the bass community, too.
 
#14
F-Clef-Jef said:
That's just plain wrong. Please don't post BS like this. :rollno:
Click to expand...

+1 I've been changing strings for 40 years without ANY problems caused by changing all the strings at the same time on ANY of my basses.

Sometimes I change them one at a time (although I always change the whole set - never a fresh string amongst dull ones) but mostly I view string changing time as a chance to give the bass a good clean and to polish the fretboard.

Letting the trussrod bow the neck backwards for 10 minutes until you counterbalance it with a fresh set of strings isn't going to hurt anything
 
#15
DiabolusInMusic said:
The reason is went all wonky is because you took off all of the strings when you changed them. Always leave one string on at tension when changing strings. The bass truss rod is under such tension that the neck will bow without it. When a bass is shipped from the factory they always tune it up because of this issue.
Click to expand...

If this happens to you, you truly have a pile of crap bass.
 
#17
Anytime you change strings, your bass is probably going to need some adjustment. I never change strings (TI Jazz Flats) and I adjust my bass at least once a month. There is no problem in removing all strings at once as long as you restring it within a reasonable amount of time. A proper setup should be done in a certain sequence. Spend time learning to do it properly. The only dangerous thing is turning a truss rod nut when you don't have a clue about how to do it correctly.
Rocky
 
#18
Learn how to set up a bass. If you have to pay someone to do it each time, you'll be spending when there's no need. Setups are fun and satisfying when you know how. If you change strings you may need a tweak of the rod or the saddle screws could move a bit. Why pay someone when it's not that difficult.

One piece of advice, if your rod needs tightening and it's your first time, do it like this: LOOSEN it first. Take note of how far you turn it, only go an eighth of a turn. Then tighten the same amount. This will give you a feel for how much pressure it takes to tighten the nut.
 

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