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Checking Cab Impedance

I just bought a multimeter to check the impedance of a cab. 2x12's.

Checking it via a cable plugged into the cab, it shows 12.9, so I assume it's a 16 ohm cab. I then pulled one of the speakers and tested the terminals and it read 6.9. So, 8 ohms.

But the speaker is wired to the other one. So does it matter that it is wired to the other speaker ? Or should I disconnect the other speaker and check it again ?
 
They're wired in series, so when you measure across a single driver the other driver won't disturb your reading. And the readings you are getting seem pretty normal.

Except of course having a 16 ohm cab might not be what you want. I know I would probably want those drivers in parallel for a 4 ohm cab.

Ok, thanks. So I can make it 4 ohm by simply switching the wires on either driver ? The cab has 2 jacks if that matters.
 
Yes... good, basic thread here. Your "16 ohm" cab is still wired in "series" at the moment. Just rewire said cab into the "parallel" configuration to show a more-or-less-value of "4 ohms" . Just simply and very carefully join the two positives together, then the two negatives together. That being said, ..VERIFY ... then verify again with your new multimeter. Whenever I check a cab that someone is absolutely depending on ME to get it right, I'll write up a label with the ohms rating I found, date it.. and apply it right next to the output jack.
 
Yes... good, basic thread here. Your "16 ohm" cab is still wired in "series" at the moment. Just rewire said cab into the "parallel" configuration to show a more-or-less-value of "4 ohms" . Just simply and very carefully join the two positives together, then the two negatives together. That being said, ..VERIFY ... then verify again with your new multimeter. Whenever I check a cab that someone is absolutely depending on ME to get it right, I'll write up a label with the ohms rating I found, date it.. and apply it right next to the output jack.

Ok, I got it done and checked it. Read 3.6, = 4 ohms.

I started by looking at the jack on the cab and making sure which wire was positive (tip), and which was negative (sleeve). Then I wired it as you said.

+ from jack to + terminal speaker 1, + terminal speaker 1 to + terminal speaker 2

- from jack to - terminal speaker 1, - terminal speaker 1 to - terminal speaker 2

Checked it at the jack(3.6), then put it back together, and then double checked again after plugging in a speaker cable. Same reading, 3.6. Voila, 4 ohm cab !

Made sure the extension speaker jack was working on the amp, then cut the - lead to the internal speaker so the amp would see only the 4 ohm load from the extension cab.

Last thing I need to do is disconnect the second speaker jack on the back of the cab since I won't need it and plug it with a Hearos.

Good tip on the label ! I'll do that. Cab impedance/watts, speaker brand/impedance/model #/watts rating.

I'll also put a large label on top of the amp next to the switches to prevent power up without a load, since the internal is now disconnected. (it's an old tube amp) The fuse is right next to the power switch, so I'll remove it each time I turn the amp off. Then I know I won't forget to plug in a cab before I power up. I'll Velcro a fuse box w/a spare to the top of the amp next to the label.

Something like-

Power up
1-connect extension cab/verify cable plugged in all the way
2-standby on
3-volume control down
4-replace fuse
5-power on
6-wait 1 minute, then turn standby off

Power down
1-power switch off, let amp cool down a few mins.
2-remove fuse and place in box
3-volume controls down
4-standby on
5-leave ext. cab connected unless moving/transporting amp

The amp has a polarity switch that is no longer operable because the amp has been upgraded to a 3 prong cord. I may wind up putting a switch in it's place to turn engage/disengage the internal speaker.