If it is down at the bottom by the pearl slide, typically on the audience/floor side of the bow you can get finger wear from rubbing against the frog and add wood. You can also have chips/damage on either side. Those repairs are aesthetic. If you are missing a significant chunk and replace it you might notice a slight weight difference, but unless something else has been altered about the bow because of the missing weight, it should be going back towards what the maker intended anyway. The bow should sound/play the same, and with careful wood selection and good tool skills, the new wood blends in well.
If it's at the "top" by the underslide, the execution of the repair is far more critical, and it is a structural repair. Because the frog and the stick come together at this point and the underslide is there to protect the fragile edges of the ebony, usually a cheval on this side means there are issues with alignment. If the underslide is a good fit, it can be reused and you just have to get the wood right. If the underslide is damaged or also does not fit, then a new underslide has to be made to match the stick and make everything stable. Creating an underslide to fit an existing bow (when you are not the original maker with the original tooling) can be complex as the angles/width are different for a lot of makers. You could also need bushings for the stick or the frog if there were alignment issues that brought you to a cheval in the first place.
If the frog is not original to the stick, there is a good chance that the three facets of the octagon on the stick that meet the three facets in the frog are not the same. Many sticks are not perfect octagons with 45° angles everywhere, especially with older bows. This is where the structural/mechanical part of the repair comes in, because if the angles of the stick are 42° but the frog is 45°, then only the bottom facet and the eyelet are providing any lateral stability, and if the frog is 42° and the stick is 45°, then only the tops of the rails are pinching the stick and you're looking at thumb projection cracks and stability issues too.
If you have a shop/bow restorer around that does this kind of work and you are interested in the bow, I would consider it, but I would find that person first before committing to the bow. Not every shop/maker will take on that kind of a project, and if you aren't around someone who can do it, then the logistics becomes more of an issue than the actual repair.