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Choosing the right bass cab
- Thread starter Jens4343
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- bass cabinets
Certainly merits investigation (manual, e-mail to manufacturer). Any number of cab crossovers use some type of fuse for protection. That being said, I'm wondering what behaviors led to the TC's demise. Pushing any enclosure past its stated limitations will result in component damage...doesn't matter if the badge reads "TC" or "Trickfish".
Riis
Could be but I'm not the resident expert. I'm hoping that those-in-the-know chime in with a sensible approach to pinpoint the culprit. Is the cab still exhibiting the same symptoms under similar circumstances?
Riis
Is this consistent when used with different heads? I'd match the cab with a known good amp (...other than your Ashdown) just to narrow the usual suspects. I know it's a pain.
Riis
2 good known amps still makes crappy sound - Ashdown plugged into a known cabinet sounds like it should. so to be fair - it must be the cabinet from TC
Thanks @Stumbo. I suppose I could put it on top of the 210 to raise it up closer to my ears, but I've never had a problem hearing that 410 on any stage over the last 4 years including outdoor festivals. I'm actually thinking of taking my 410 with me to tonight's gig and using it as a stand for my 210. It's a medium-sized venue and my DNS-210 should be plenty loud enough for it by itself.
Could be. Sometimes there's a fuse on the crossover network. Usually, though it's just for the tweeter, rarely for the whole cabinet. Could be the part of the crossover that affects the woofers is bad. It could be one driver could be blown or windings are coming undone on a voice coil. IDK
Probably. Most cabs with separate tweeter horns have one to keep from frying the tweeter with too much power. It's usually an auto-type bulb-fuse. It glows when it starts getting too much power - basically lighting up the bulb instead of frying your tweeter. Not a real problem if you see it come on once in a while, but if it comes on and stays on, it will soon burn out. Usually, that just stops the tweeter from working and not the rest of the cab, but totally depends on how it's wired and set up.
You should be able to pull the backplate and see the fuse if it's one of those I mentioned above. Presuming it's an adjustable L-pad (backplate with crossover and and adjustment control), turning the adjustment down should help stop the glowing. However, if something inside that L-pad has gone south, you may need to replace the L-pad. They usually are not very expensive (less than $20).
But check that bulb-fuse first and replace it if it's blown out. If you replace it and it burns the new one out too, somethings gone south and you may need to replace that L-pad.
You will not see any damage to the woofers themselves. You will have to pull them out and lightly press on the front of the cone and feel if the voice coil is rubbing. You will feel and hear it if, it is. If so that driver is blown and you'll need to have it repaired, reconed or replace the driver.
If the volume is intermittent or it's sometimes crappy sounding. I suspect one driver is blown, voice coil windings coming loose or half the voice coil is burnt.
That's all I have, anyone else?
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Yes, I think it's worth fixing. All there are is wood, crossover, and speakers. I would do what I suggested about pulling each woofer out one by one and checking to see if a woofer is blown and have the damaged one or ones reconded or replaced if there's no one around to repair them.
Read this if you haven't already:
Choosing the right bass cab
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Also, check if the tweeter is still working. You could check it in the cabinet by plugging in the cab to the amp and turn it on and listen to the tweeter and see if you hear it hissing if it is, it still may be good and you'll know it is not the tweeter and crossover.
If you notice in his comment he says "new cabinet simular to this is around 600 dollars around these parts".
He may not be in-country, so a Fearless may be hard to come by.
