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Chromes vs LaBella on JMJ Mustang?

lm183902

lm183902

Aug 19, 2007
539
559
41
Denver, CO
#1
I've had a JMJ Mustang since right when they came out and immediately put on the LaBella Mustang set when I got it. It had the "Dead E" thing going on and I decided to just play it for a while in hopes that the rest of the strings would eventually match. That has unfortunately not been the case, however. I actually love the way the E sounds and wish the A, D and G would match, tonally, but they're so much more articulate sounding, even after all of these years of use.

I'm currently debating whether to try a new set of LaBellas (maybe I twisted the E on install?) or to switch things up and try Chromes. I honestly prefer the feel and sound of LaBellas on average - I have Chromes on my P Bass, but only because I kept having issues with the G on LaBellas when I first got the bass. I like the naturally darker tone of the LaBellas as well, but the Chromes are fine after being broken in.

Above all though, I want balanced, even tone across all strings. Is the dead E just the way it goes with the Labellas? Would Chromes offer me the balance I'm wanting?
 
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#2
Running LaBellas 760F-MUS on my Vintera Mustang. No issues with uneven strings. Maybe you got a bad set or have a setup/install issue (recognizing you mentioned install issue may have happened)?

Running Chromes on a Tribute Fallout bass. Strings have not broken in yet. I usually dislike Chromes due to tackiness and brightness. According to others, those things should go away. If they break in, then they will be fine. However, I still prefer the LaBellas.

Recognizing this post probably does not help you a bunch, but I think that is kind of the point. Flip a coin... seems like you will be fine with either and are weighting options that both have pros/cons. Those pros/cons are not enough to decide for you or you would not be here asking.
 
#3
Flats are hard to get even. I run labella low tensions on most of my shorties but have issues with uneven G strings. I’ve been testing both DR legends and Dunlop flats. They’re brighter and punchier than labellas, but as bright as chromes (which I never bonded with)

The Dunlops are offered in a ton of scale lengths but they’re not going to match the Dead E sound you liked, that’s more Labella territory.
 
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#4
ahbass2500 said:
Running LaBellas 760F-MUS on my Vintera Mustang. No issues with uneven strings. Maybe you got a bad set or have a setup/install issue (recognizing you mentioned install issue may have happened)?

Running Chromes on a Tribute Fallout bass. Strings have not broken in yet. I usually dislike Chromes due to tackiness and brightness. According to others, those things should go away. If they break in, then they will be fine. However, I still prefer the LaBellas.

Recognizing this post probably does not help you a bunch, but I think that is kind of the point. Flip a coin... seems like you will be fine with either and are weighting options that both have pros/cons. Those pros/cons are not enough to decide for you or you would not be here asking.
Click to expand...

No, this is actually quite helpful!

My concern was that maybe this was just an inherent quality of the LaBella set. But it sounds like my E maybe just has an issue (which wouldn't surprise me - I've had all sorts of issues with LaBella, as much as I love the feel and sound of a good set)
 
#5
lm183902 said:
I'm currently debating whether to try a new set of LaBellas (maybe I twisted the E on install?) or to switch things up and try Chromes. I honestly prefer the feel and sound of LaBellas on average - I have Chromes on my P Bass, but only because I kept having issues with the G on LaBellas when I first got the bass. I like the naturally darker tone of the LaBellas as well, but the Chromes are fine after being broken in.

Above all though, I want balanced, even tone across all strings. Is the dead E just the way it goes with the Labellas? Would Chromes offer me the balance I'm wanting?
Click to expand...
For a flatwound with a "naturally darker tone" and tonal balance across all four strings, don't rule out the GHS Precision Flats 45-60-75-95, which come in "medium scale" with 35.5" winding length (ball end to taper/silk).

I've used the long scale set of the same gauges on my P bass in the past and liked the way they sounded nicely balanced overall. No dead E syndrome.

www.ghsstrings.com

3120 SET - MEDIUM SCALE PRECISION FLATS™

Long revered as the "Sound of Chocolate," Precision Flats™ sound and feel like rock and roll history! Stainless steel ribbon wire i...
www.ghsstrings.com www.ghsstrings.com
 
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#7
I didn't realize he still got on here, but I just saw JMJ respond in another Mustang related thread, so perhaps he'll weigh in here. Would love to know what he's using on his bass - @jmjbassplayer I seem to recall you mentioning Chromes in the past. Is that what you have on your Mustang?
 
#10
I had a similar problem with the labellas on a similar short scale. The E was so chorusy I had them send me another which was only partially better. Went with the chromes. I do a alcohol wipe to get a stick off. but the latest set was clean and smooth. I use and like the labelles on a few of my 34 scale basses.
 
#11
The Mustangs I've had and worked on were string through body only at the bridge and that is the issue. La Bella flats are not fond of that, especially the E.

Stringing LaBella flats on a Mustang can be done successfully, but it requires some care. When winding a new string around a tuner post, make sure the ball end is free to rotate inside the string through ferrule so the string can stay in plane and not twist as you begin to tension the string.

Once there's a kink in the string at the bridge end when the string is tensioned, that locks in the lay of the string, and if it's a bit twisted out of plane, deadness may ensue.

You may think you've got everything lined up in plane as you start winding the string around the tuning post, but it's easy for the string to twist out of plane as you wind. I let the tuner post determine the lay of the string with the ball end free to rotate. It's almost a three handed job sometimes, depending on the bridge.

I've sometimes thought of modding the stock Mustang bridge to allow the E string to be strung through the tail with the ball end backed out with spacers to set the winding length as if the string had been strung through the body. I'm not sure I'd get enough of a break angle over the saddle, though.

There's an easier work around which I like: dead roundwounds, which have a sound of their own. They tolerate the string through body mounting much better than flats. Best result is to mount fresh rounds and play them dead. Put foam under the strings at the bridge while they're still zingy. You can speed up the deadening with string lube, grease, BBQ sauce, your own sebaceous oil, whatever you think will work. That's not something I typically do; your oilage may vary.
 
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#13
I’m quite happy with the TI JF324 set I have on my JMJ Mustang, pricey but worth it to me. good thump and very even across the set. I have a set of Chromes on my Nash PB55 that I initially found kind of bright but after sticking a dish sponge by the bridge under the strings and playing them in I’ve removed the clank that they were giving me.

image.jpg
 
#14
Low Main said:
The Mustangs I've had and worked on were string through body only at the bridge and that is the issue. La Bella flats are not fond of that, especially the E.

Stringing LaBella flats on a Mustang can be done successfully, but it requires some care. When winding a new string around a tuner post, make sure the ball end is free to rotate inside the string through ferrule so the string can stay in plane and not twist as you begin to tension the string.

Once there's a kink in the string at the bridge end when the string is tensioned, that locks in the lay of the string, and if it's a bit twisted out of plane, deadness may ensue.

You may think you've got everything lined up in plane as you start winding the string around the tuning post, but it's easy for the string to twist out of plane as you wind. I let the tuner post determine the lay of the string with the ball end free to rotate. It's almost a three handed job sometimes, depending on the bridge.

I've sometimes thought of modding the stock Mustang bridge to allow the E string to be strung through the tail with the ball end backed out with spacers to set the winding length as if the string had been strung through the body. I'm not sure I'd get enough of a break angle over the saddle, though.

There's an easier work around which I like: dead roundwounds, which have a sound of their own. They tolerate the string through body mounting much better than flats. Best result is to mount fresh rounds and play them dead. Put foam under the strings at the bridge while they're still zingy. You can speed up the deadening with string lube, grease, BBQ sauce, your own sebaceous oil, whatever you think will work. That's not something I typically do; your oilage may vary.
Click to expand...

Great advice! Twisting the string on install is what I imagine happened with the set I have on the bass now. Will follow these steps when I put on the new set!
 
#15
lm183902 said:
Ahhh, ok. Perhaps I was misremembering.

Rolled the dice and ordered another set of LaBellas shortly after starting this thread, so I'm hoping the E on my current set is just wonky
Click to expand...
I’ve tried 4 sets of La Bella flats on several basses. All have a more dead sounding E string and a bright G. Certainly more uneven than Chromes. I don’t know why they don’t fix this as it seems many others have this issue. I also hope they even out over time…
 
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#17
Low Main said:
The Mustangs I've had and worked on were string through body only at the bridge and that is the issue. La Bella flats are not fond of that, especially the E.

Stringing LaBella flats on a Mustang can be done successfully, but it requires some care. When winding a new string around a tuner post, make sure the ball end is free to rotate inside the string through ferrule so the string can stay in plane and not twist as you begin to tension the string.

Once there's a kink in the string at the bridge end when the string is tensioned, that locks in the lay of the string, and if it's a bit twisted out of plane, deadness may ensue.

You may think you've got everything lined up in plane as you start winding the string around the tuning post, but it's easy for the string to twist out of plane as you wind. I let the tuner post determine the lay of the string with the ball end free to rotate. It's almost a three handed job sometimes, depending on the bridge.

I've sometimes thought of modding the stock Mustang bridge to allow the E string to be strung through the tail with the ball end backed out with spacers to set the winding length as if the string had been strung through the body. I'm not sure I'd get enough of a break angle over the saddle, though.

There's an easier work around which I like: dead roundwounds, which have a sound of their own. They tolerate the string through body mounting much better than flats. Best result is to mount fresh rounds and play them dead. Put foam under the strings at the bridge while they're still zingy. You can speed up the deadening with string lube, grease, BBQ sauce, your own sebaceous oil, whatever you think will work. That's not something I typically do; your oilage may vary.
Click to expand...
I thought the Labella MUS were designed specifically for the string through body?

Anyway I have the same chorusy, dead E string with the Jamerson Labellas on a top loader P bass. I restrung the E several times making sure the ball end wouldn't twist. They're about one year old. I haven't played them much. They lost the initial edge but the A, D and G are still more articulate. The E always sounds sharp despite actually being in tune as per my tuners.

To be fair, I hear the same on other flats - Fender 9050 and short scale Chromes, but to a much lesser degree. The Fenders have an overly bright G, the Chromes are more even.

Foam at the bridge seems to even them out a bit.
 
#19
My experience is that LaBellas might sound just a tiny bit nicer. On the other hand you get more consistent results with Chromes. Chromes sound very nice too. Maybe even better in some respects.

Chromes being twangy and bright is really not an issue because they mellow out after a while.

Don't forget the Fender 9050L. They are long scale but that's what Fender installs to JMJ bass in the factory. The common knowledge is that they are made by D'addario. They're just a different flavor of the Chromes in my experience.

Folklore tells us that LaBellas last forever. Well, you need to find a decent set first, it seems.
 
#20
IME Fender flats mellow out to a midrangey tone whereas Chromes still retain some highs and a midrange scoop. They feel similar.

Labellas are more polished and therefore a tad sticky.

All flats sound horribly clanky for the first few weeks and really come into their own after a few months of solid playing. Use them for shedding
 

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