I did with my early Roadster I purchased new. The fit and finish was so obviously better to any person and it (still) sounds great, is as stable as a rock over a lot of conditions. 70s/80s Fs were not all that great, certainly not the way the vintage market sees them now, when at the time they were considered very poor. The Japanese Lawsuit era instruments were great and kicked the MIA models in the butt so comprehensively that the US manufacturers had to sue or they would have been driven out of business.
Yes, the OP should go to the Ibanez pages for the particular series' and they go from the most boutique down, with the exception of the Workshop Series at the top. These are MII, not MIJ like the Prestige, but off the more unusual variants and are made in much more limited runs.
Otherwise, generally, the least expensive ranges start at the lowest numbers, ie 200 and go up, with the 4 digits being a bit higher spec. But, don't let that worry you; though I have several higher model SRs, my base model GSR/SR206 sees as much gig and playing time as any of the others because it sounds good, is rock stable (though a simple 1 piece neck) and feels the same as my more expensive 6s. On this last point, SRs have a very consistent neck shape between models and over the years, so one SR should feel the same in the fretting hand to another.
SR | PRODUCTS | Ibanez guitars
My 206 is the second last instrument.
If the stores have some BTBs, also try them as you might like them as well. Same basic idea with model numbers and neck consistency. The 845v/846v are both 33" not 35" like the rest of the BTBs.
BTB | PRODUCTS | Ibanez guitars
The SR655 was mentioned earlier as a recent PJ5 type. Here is the
Ibanez wiki page on it, and the same site has a wealth of (mostly) correct info on older Ibanez models. Most of the older official US pages can still be found at archive.org with a little tenacity if you want to confirm.
Last point, Ibanez recycle model numbers like BMW do, so when someone refers to an SR505 for example, they varied a bit over the years so you might need to know what year to confirm the exact spec. First 2 numbers in the SN are usually the year.