converting my top load bass to a string thru

[Florijan]

It does make a difference: There is more sustain and the bass becomes more vibrant, more alive, there are more harmonics, the flageolets are louder but it's a hell of a job to mute the strings. This bass has become so bloody alive that it almost plays itself!
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I have a nice bass (harley benton MB-4) that has fairly poor string isolation. Not sure if that's the correct term The problem where playing one string vibrates another (typically lower) string, if I'm not muting it. All basses I've played do this, to some extent, so we mute strings we don't play, but this one is a bit extreme. I noticed the bridge already has holes beneath the strings, in the position for stringing through. Maybe the bridge isn't attached well enough (probably thin, short screws, wouldn't surprise me), or the plate is a bit too thin. Either way, I'm thinking that stringing through would fix each string to the body a whole lot more, add tension over the saddles too, and reduce the transfer.

Does this logic make sense? I'm also considering a high mass bridge I have lying around, but it would change the look, so I'm interested in string-through.

 

[Zooberwerx]

I have a nice bass (harley benton MB-4) that has fairly poor string isolation. Not sure if that's the correct term The problem where playing one string vibrates another (typically lower) string, if I'm not muting it. All basses I've played do this, to some extent, so we mute strings we don't play, but this one is a bit extreme. I noticed the bridge already has holes beneath the strings, in the position for stringing through. Maybe the bridge isn't attached well enough (probably thin, short screws, wouldn't surprise me), or the plate is a bit too thin. Either way, I'm thinking that stringing through would fix each string to the body a whole lot more, add tension over the saddles too, and reduce the transfer.

Does this logic make sense? I'm also considering a high mass bridge I have lying around, but it would change the look, so I'm interested in string-through.

No on all counts. A proper string install, set-up, and muting (...I use floating thumb) should adequately address the issue. For kicks & giggles, I'd install the high mass bridge just to see what happens. It's a Harley Benton for cryin' out loud...hack away!

Riis

 

[Arohana]

Does this logic make sense? I'm also considering a high mass bridge I have lying around

Hmm. Not really. High mass bridge + correct installation = more string/neck/body resonance conducted via pickups & onboard electronics, not less.

@Chop11777 very kindly sold me a Schaller 3D-4 high mass roller bridge, which is now installed on a fretless JB.

Additional to yielding extended sustain (vs sympathetic harmonics/feedback), the Schaller bridge's saddle rollers can be laterally adjusted too (hence 3D).

This is a definite improvement, allowing for optimal string spacing.

Getting back to your question, I'm reminded of my first comment on this thread (re: over the top resonance on Sterling Sub-4 A/3rd & E/4th strings).

I could use a scrunchy (cheap), or try to find an original Stingray bridge ass'y with string dampers (not cheap).

But it occurred to me that the cause is more likely lower quality pickup + overcompensated preamp design, than lack of string-through or anything to do with purely mechanical issues.

Could this be true of your Harley Benton bass too?

Ed.
Please excuse somewhat irrelevant photo, I'd meant to use one that showed the Schaller 3D-4 bridge on my JB. Instead, odd little rig: Gnome i-pro runs @ 4 ohms into Elf 2x8 + GK TL606 w/ EVM-15B.

 

[Florijan]

No on all counts. A proper string install, set-up, and muting (...I use floating thumb) should adequately address the issue. For kicks & giggles, I'd install the high mass bridge just to see what happens. It's a Harley Benton for cryin' out loud...hack away!

Set-up is fine, pretty experienced at this. Thumb muting: sure, though obviously I don't manage this 100% correctly, otherwise I wouldn't have noticed the issue Hacking away: nothing against it, but due to screw placement on my alternative high-mass bridge, I can pretty much go either that route, or string-through.The holes would be overlapping, but not exactly, making it a pain to convert from one to the other. Also the bridge would change string spacing (20mm originally, 19mm alternative).

Hmm. Not really. High mass bridge + correct installation = more string/neck/body resonance conducted via pickups & onboard electronics, not less.

Understood... I guess I was thinking that a poor (or just poorly attached) bridge *could* result in less body resonance, less sustain, but more sympathetic harmonics.

But it occurred to me that the cause is more likely lower quality pickup + overcompensated preamp design, than lack of string-through or anything to do with purely mechanical issues.

Could this be true of your Harley Benton bass too?

No onboard preamp. Not sure if the pickup itself could be responsible? While it's not the best sounding pickup I've heard, I don't hear anything really problematic with it.

But I hear you both... You don't really expect either approach to reduce the issue. I might try string-though just for the fun of it though... Or get new screws for the existing bridge, HB saves money on screws, already experienced this

 

[Zooberwerx]

Set-up is fine, pretty experienced at this. Thumb muting: sure, though obviously I don't manage this 100% correctly, otherwise I wouldn't have noticed the issue Hacking away: nothing against it, but due to screw placement on my alternative high-mass bridge, I can pretty much go either that route, or string-through.The holes would be overlapping, but not exactly, making it a pain to convert from one to the other. Also the bridge would change string spacing (20mm originally, 19mm alternative).



Understood... I guess I was thinking that a poor (or just poorly attached) bridge *could* result in less body resonance, less sustain, but more sympathetic harmonics.



No onboard preamp. Not sure if the pickup itself could be responsible? While it's not the best sounding pickup I've heard, I don't hear anything really problematic with it.

But I hear you both... You don't really expect either approach to reduce the issue. I might try string-though just for the fun of it though... Or get new screws for the existing bridge, HB saves money on screws, already experienced this

Stock spacing is 20 mm center-to-center? Thumbs-up for better fasteners.

Riis

 

[Arohana]

Thumbs-up for better fasteners.

Improved screws? It's a topmount bridge. If the screws were loose, there'd be room to slide a feeler guage - or a coin! - under it, because it'd be getting ready to catapult across the room... death by Harley Benton

 

[Zooberwerx]

Improved screws? It's a topmount bridge. If the screws were loose, there'd be room to slide a feeler guage - or a coin! - under it, because it'd be getting ready to catapult across the room... death by Harley Benton

Funny you mention that. I pursued a DIY project which purportedly increases effective bridge / body interaction. If nothing else, it kept the bridge from being launched like a carrier-assigned F-16.

DIY High Mass Bridge for Under !

Riis

 

[Arohana]

Funny you mention that. I pursued a DIY project which purportedly increases effective bridge / body interaction. If nothing else, it kept the bridge from being launched like a carrier-assigned F-16.

DIY High Mass Bridge for Under !

Riis

Good lard.. sex bolts!

 

[Zooberwerx]

Good lard.. sex bolts!

Thank you...I think. Kinda makes sense in theory as it's essentially a clamping approach not unlike the inserts installed in neck heels.

Riis

 

[Florijan]

Stock spacing is 20 mm center-to-center? Thumbs-up for better fasteners.

Yep, 60mm exactly between E and G strings, center to center.

 

[Beej]

@Florijan since that bass is mass produced and follows an existing perfectly workable design, it follows that the issue you are experiencing is not with design features, but is more likely to be resolved in the setup and assembly. It's possible there is a flaw somewhere that could be making this happen, but it's worth addressing all of the standard setup issues and then digging deeper into other potential problems. Since you're getting a sympathetic resonance issue, it's possible that there's something somewhere that is loose and touches both strings leading to the vibration being transferred in a way you don't like. I'd rule out a few things first including:
- Glue down the nut and ensure it doesn't have any side to side movement.
- Carefully inspect the fretboard-to-neck joint to ensure it is secure.
- Tighten the tuners and ensure they are seated flat against the back of the headstock. Check each tuner to ensure there is smooth tight action and it doesn't have parts that are loose or wiggle (and can vibrate).
- Ensure the strings run straight under the string retainer.
- Ensure the truss-rod nut is snug and doesn't wiggle. Doesn't need to be tightened up, just make sure it doesn't move when playing.
- Inspect the nut to ensure string paths are straight and have a single contact point at the fulcrum.
- Remove, inspect and refasten bridge to body tightly. Make sure the intonation adjustment screws turn smoothly and sit flush against the back when in position. Inspect all bridge parts to ensure they are well-fitted to one another and turn smoothly.
- Remove neck, clean pocket and back of neck to ensure proper tight seating and reattach firmly.
- Tighten all pickguard and control components, affix anything that moves inside the control cavity.

If, after all that, the problem remains, then you've at least eliminated everything you can control. At that point it may be due to a specific set of resonances in the overall bass that highlight those frequencies naturally. From there you could experiment with different strings to see what you find.