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Converting to passive

Does any one make an after market OB passive pre?
I would like to convert my Ibanez RD500 to an all passive set up, similar to the Sadowsky Vintage Tone control, but with out the active option. I'm sick of 9 volt batteries, and I prefer passive tone any way.

Thanks for your help,

Johno!

FWIW:

passive and pre are a bit of a contradiction in terms as pre these days implies active boost/cut band controls . You're not going to have band control passively - which I get the impression is what you're after. Just get rid of the preamp in your bass and install a passive harness - or leave it if you can pull enough pots to get what you want in your passive harness and skip the pre aspect.

In terms of an outboard box I know there are some passive DI's, seems the countryman is. And some active/passive DI's. Again, not tone control of consequence.

If you've got a passive option already, you'd be better off just working tone off amp controls if that works for your situation. Then you don't have to change anything at all - unless the bass is wired where pulling the battery leaves no passive output.
 
That's pretty much it. 250K pots for single coils, 500K pot's for humbuckers is the rule of thumb. Standard Fender cap's are .047 but the values you use are a matter of taste. Sandard wiring diagrams are available at Seymore Duncan's website. That's a real useful resource.

If your pickups are hard soldered to the pre, as opposed to some other mechanical connection (screw down, snap connector, etc) then cut the leads leaving at least an inch connected to the pre. That way you'll be able to easily re-connect and re-install later if necessary. You can always solder a short length of wire onto the leades to extend them a bit if necessary.

Make a diagram of the wiring - particularly grounding and the battery connection. If possible, leave the output jack & battery connected to the pre. Just replace the output jack and you'll be way closer to an easy reinstall - again if necessary.

As a first test - I would wire the pickups straight to the NEW output jack and give it a listen. Those pickups may sound great passive - or not ... You might end up doing that re-install sooner than you think.
 
Slight correction....


The countryman is active, it's goal is to be transparent and sound passive but it does run on a 9V or phantom power...

Thanks for the clarification. I said seems cause I wasn't sure, it's not a piece I've had. There was a good post the other day that mentioned active and passive DI's and I was going from recall. Fact is, I didn't even know there were active and passive DI's before. Never thought about it.
 
Again, thanks for the replies.
The RD500 is a sort of poor mans Lakeland, so I have an MM in the bridge, and a J in the neck. I have four pot positions so should I do volume and tone for each PU, or Bl V T T?
The PU's are Seymore's.


Johno!

FWIW:

If you pull the pre I would make an accurate useable diagram of the existing wiring and stick it with the pre is safe keeping. Not only becuase tastes change but getting the outcome you want from a mod is no sure shot to say the least. Also, someone who eventually buys it may want active or the original harness.

The passive harness you select is personal choice. You've got 4 holes to plug and I would definitely do that.

I would also also run the pickup(s) straight to the jack and run off amp controls to check out the passive sound first. Not having a passive mode, you have no idea what it will sound like passive so no comparison. If you're a primary bridge or neck player, just wire the one pup. If you don't take this approach, you may go through all the hassel only to put it back the way it was.