Double Bass "Correct" length for 3/4 DB tailpiece wire?

[GretschWretch]

I recently took delivery of some nylon DB tailpiece cables (needed more than one), only to discover they are too long. The narrow end of the tailpiece rides about 3" above the saddle with tension on the strings, and there is no way to try to reduce that distance and get the tailpiece to set "right" that does not require a fix too eccentric even for
me.

So I'm off to the hardware store to get some braided aircraft cable. I can assess the diameter from the tp access holes, but optimum length is a mystery. The store will have to cut the cable to lengths for me and I want not too long (like what I've got now) nor too short. The mounting holes for the cable would be visible from the top of the tailpiece, not the ones who anchor on the underside.

Also, would acorn nuts be suitable to cap off the cut ends of the cable? Can they be threaded securely on, or will the pull from the strings at tension pop them off?

 

[JBarz]

It depends on the size of the bass and length of tailpiece, but general rule I’ve noticed is 42” scale length works out around 6” string after length. Adjust length of tail gut accordingly and then fine tune to get the intonation as close as possible (on string the after lengths) after everything has settled.

 

[Leo Smith]

My repair guys (Cincinnati Bass Cellar) use the aircraft wire and they use this tubular locking mechanism. Not sure what to call this kind of connector. The two end of the wire are threaded in from opposite directions, then the length can be set before tightening the nuts and cutting the excess.

 

[jj.833]

My repair guys (Cincinnati Bass Cellar) use the aircraft wire and they use this tubular locking mechanism. Not sure what to call this kind of connector. The two end of the wire are threaded in from opposite directions, then the length can be set before tightening the nuts and cutting the excess.

I also have this kind of connection on my bass. Recommended and set by my luthier. Works perfectly. Absolutely stable. Once I adjusted it on my own, it's quite easy. The cable can be cut with strong pliers, if you strenghten the cutting place with a tape.
The afterlenght (lenght of string between bridge and tailpiece) should be such that the pitch the afterlenght plays when plucked it either in octave or fifth relation to the pitch of given string. It helps the instrument to resonate, giving it more shininess and volume.

 

[groooooove]

I don't know whats on my bass now, but my old bass that was maintained by Jeff Bollbach had hardware like that.

assuming the tailpiece itself fits the bass, the measurement I've learned to trust is the tuning of the afterlengths. they should tuned to the note a perfect 4th above the open string (plus... 2 octaves?)

but this depends on several factors.

 

[Stuart.C]

Size the tail gut/wire to create a 1:6 ratio between the after lengths and playing length of the string.

although for bass I think I have seen a 1:5 ratio suggested as well, also various tuning methods, but unless you have adjustable after lengths on your tailpiece I am not sure how one tunes all the after lengths with the gross adjustments of a tail gut wire. I suppose you pick one to tune and leave the others.

Each method is in the ball park of 1:6, so that is a good place to start and ultimately it comes down to experimenting for what works best for you.

In my experience, tuning the after lengths has the most pronounced effect on how the string starts and sounds under the bow.
too short gives is a crunchy attack and too long gives an airy wispy attack, YMMV

 

[james condino]

Which bass are you workin' on? Maybe one of us has the same model and can measure it for you to e in the ballpark.

Those brass cable connectors are called...wiat...brass cable connectors.

Wire cutters make contact on two flat planes when they cut; cable cutters cut from four independent sides, so they dare cleaner and do not unravel as much. I use a set made for bicycle cables- readily available at any shop for about $25.

I nice old responsive bass will have subtle changes to lengths; an overbuilt old ply will most of the time still sound like overbuilt old plywood.

 

[GretschWretch]

Which bass are you workin' on? Maybe one of us has the same model and can measure it for you to e in the ballpark.

Those brass cable connectors are called...wiat...brass cable connectors.

Wire cutters make contact on two flat planes when they cut; cable cutters cut from four independent sides, so they dare cleaner and do not unravel as much. I use a set made for bicycle cables- readily available at any shop for about $25.

I nice old responsive bass will have subtle changes to lengths; an overbuilt old ply will most of the time still sound like overbuilt old plywood.

The bass is a Lidl 5/35 (hybrid), which except for the top is essentially the same bass as a Strunal 5/30 (which I also have). The mischief with these is that they came with the solid tailpiece wires like what what is on Kays, so what I wound up with is a bunch of tailpieces with unsuitable wires. Earlier today I was poking around on the web and saw that Gollihur has pre-cut cables with accompanying clamps for a reasonable price, and I may go with that. If I batch five I can get free shipping, and this will save any of you the trouble of measuring, although the offer is appreciated.

I needed tailpiece cables and had never tried the nylon ones, so I ebayed a batch of four just to see what they were like. They are surprisingly not flexible and are insufficiently adjustable.

 

[Greg Clinkingbeard]

Those adjustable things are OK if they are tightened but I’ve had more than one come loose. Consequently, I use simple aluminum pieces which are hammered flat. In my experience, 1/6 of the vibrating string length (7” on a 42” bass) usually works well. It doesn’t need to be exact but I can usually get it very close.
I’ve also seen basses with the longer nylon ones wrapped with a loop over the endpin to take up the slack.

 

[DoubleMIDI]

If you want to be able to adjust, either aircraft cable with the round clamp (but use good ones, aluminium can be a bit too soft) or a kevlar strap that could be knotted.

Using kevlar I make a slip at the knot to be able to reopen it, but secure the ends with a soft knot to avoid unexpected opening under tension.
I needed to use kevlar with my Moser HVU (height adjustable saddle).
Be warned, initially but stretches, so making it easily adjustable is important.