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Double Bass Cracked top

bassteban

bassteban

Aug 12, 2004
17,837
219
62
Northern California
#1
I had noticed a very faint split awhile back, starting at the bottom edge of the front, directly below the lowest point of the right f-hole. It is now MUCH more apparent. I've called my repairman but not yet gotten through.
*Sigh*
:help:
Edit: Not really asking for help(commiseration might be nice), just whining...
 
#2
Thank you, Ken. I still have not talked w/my repairman; I will try to do the hide glue trick. My crack(:hmm: )looks much like yours(:hmm: X2). Is liquid hide glue likely to be readily available at say, a hardware store? If not is there a decent substitute? I will of course get this to a proffessional as soon as possible, but I'm not sure when that will be.
 
#3
I don't think he meant (nor do you want) "Liquid Hide Glue" by Franklin-- it does some nasty things.

I assume you do not have a gluepot, so the following is intended to provide a means of improvisation: You can buy a small package of Knox unflavored gelatine (I guess there must be other brands, but this is the only one I have ever seen) at a grocery store,and reconstitute about a teaspoon of it in a cup with about a tablespoon of water-- put it in the microwave for 15-20 seconds, pull it out and stirr it up-- let it sit a bit, and give it another zap-- keep doing that, not too long at a time, so that the heat never exceeds 150 F. You will produce just enough HOT hide glue for the job at hand-- you can shove it through the crack with your thumb, work the sides of the crack a little, to encourage flow, wash the surface with hot water to clean off excess, and let be. But, as mentioned above, it will almost certainly require more of a fix than that.
 
#4
1st Bass said:
I don't think he meant (nor do you want) "Liquid Hide Glue" by Franklin-- it does some nasty things.

I assume you do not have a gluepot, so the following is intended to provide a means of improvisation: You can buy a small package of Knox unflavored gelatine (I guess there must be other brands, but this is the only one I have ever seen) at a grocery store,and reconstitute about a teaspoon of it in a cup with about a tablespoon of water-- put it in the microwave for 15-20 seconds, pull it out and stirr it up-- let it sit a bit, and give it another zap-- keep doing that, not too long at a time, so that the heat never exceeds 150 F. You will produce just enough HOT hide glue for the job at hand-- you can shove it through the crack with your thumb, work the sides of the crack a little, to encourage flow, wash the surface with hot water to clean off excess, and let be. But, as mentioned above, it will almost certainly require more of a fix than that.
Click to expand...

OK, no Franklin's, & I have no gluepot. I did find Titebond Professional liquid hide wood glue- is that preferable to the gelatin procedure? Another potential issue is that although there is definitely a crack, I'm not sure I will be able to get any glue into it. It's very tight; one side is slightly proud of(higher than)the other, so I can see a sharp line of 'virgin' wood. I'll see if I can get some pics up.
 
#5
All they had in the best-stocked hardware store available to me for the time being was the Titebond. It seems to be of a pretty thin viscosity; I assume this is what we want in order for it to seep into the crack well. Again, Ken, thanks for your advice- I just want to do this as well as possible. Bottom line: Will Titebond work or should I just wait until I can get it to a luthier? I'm in Northern California, it's very hot(108 degrees today)& dry, if that makes a difference.
 
#6
I think Ken means this one.

Invalid Link Removed

The white carpenters glue also sold as Franklin Titebond, is evil. You will make your repair person very unhappy if you use it. The similar name creates lots of confusion on this list over which one is evil.

You might think about how you can clamp through the F-hole to keep the crack flat during the long dry time for LHG.
 
#7
Maaaven said:
I think Ken means this one.

Invalid Link Removed

The white carpenters glue also sold as Franklin Titebond, is evil. You will make your repair person very unhappy if you use it. The similar name creates lots of confusion on this list over which one is evil.

You might think about how you can clamp through the F-hole to keep the crack flat during the long dry time for LHG.
Click to expand...

That is exactly what I have(& it's not white, nor does it resemble any carpenter's glue I've ever used)- thank you. The word 'Franklin' does NOT appear on the front, but rather in very small letters at the bottom of the rear label. As for clamping, I'm not sure that's an option here, short of removing the top. As I understand it, I'm trying to keep the crack from growing until I can get the bass to a proper repair person, who should be able to fix my 'fix', as well as the crack. BTW, thanks to all for your input.
 

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