what is the best way to create a satin from a high gloss finish?? is it as simple as using a white scotchbrite pad and basically wet sanding the finish down to a satin??
thanks for any info..
thanks for any info..
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creating a satin, from a gloss finish..
- Thread starter throbgod13
- Start date
That would work. Depending on exactly what kind of sheen you're looking for, you could wet sand starting at about 3200 grit micromesh, and work to coarser grits for a flatter finish. 0000 steel wool works well too. But be aware that any kind of satin finish will get glossy over time, so you might end up in a loop where you're sanding back to a duller look, then shining it up by using it, then sanding back, etc... It doesn't take too long of that pattern to just say screw it and let it do what it's going to do.
I agree for the most part.
I use steel wool for that a lot with the refinishing and finishing work I do on furniture and have done it on some basses. Use 0000 steel wool, nothing coarser. If you lubricate the steel wool with furniture paste wax and buff it out after de-glossing the finish you get a very nice look and feel. A little bit shinier than using the steel wool dry.
If you're going to do this on a bass, then carefully mask off the pickups or they'll get loaded up with steel wool dust that's almost impossible to remove completely. Don't take the tape off until you've cleaned all traces of steel wool dust from the bass and your workbench.
Some guys prefer using synthetic abrasive pads. I've used them too and they work but I prefer the steel wool.
If possible, buy the Liberon brand steel wool. It is superior to the other brands.
Wet sanding with 600 grit wet or dry paper will also work if you have a nice flat surface to start with. I wrap it around a piece of foam cut from an old mouse pad.
Edit to add-I think Stonefly meant to say 320 sandpaper rather than 3200 grit.
I use steel wool for that a lot with the refinishing and finishing work I do on furniture and have done it on some basses. Use 0000 steel wool, nothing coarser. If you lubricate the steel wool with furniture paste wax and buff it out after de-glossing the finish you get a very nice look and feel. A little bit shinier than using the steel wool dry.
If you're going to do this on a bass, then carefully mask off the pickups or they'll get loaded up with steel wool dust that's almost impossible to remove completely. Don't take the tape off until you've cleaned all traces of steel wool dust from the bass and your workbench.
Some guys prefer using synthetic abrasive pads. I've used them too and they work but I prefer the steel wool.
If possible, buy the Liberon brand steel wool. It is superior to the other brands.
Wet sanding with 600 grit wet or dry paper will also work if you have a nice flat surface to start with. I wrap it around a piece of foam cut from an old mouse pad.
Edit to add-I think Stonefly meant to say 320 sandpaper rather than 3200 grit.
Nope, i actually meant 3200. I suggested that for a starting point to illustrate that you can produce various sheens with different grits. In this case he'll be "rubbing back" to a sheen, instead of "buffing up". 3200 will give a slight reduction in sheen from a high gloss to more of a semi-gloss.
I think anything less than about 1500 grit doesn't produce suitable results because it leaves too many highly visible scratches. Even 1500 grit will leave lots of scratches, but if you run them all in the same direction it can be pretty forgiving.
Oh, and the lighter the color of the bass, the less the scratches will show up.
I think anything less than about 1500 grit doesn't produce suitable results because it leaves too many highly visible scratches. Even 1500 grit will leave lots of scratches, but if you run them all in the same direction it can be pretty forgiving.
Oh, and the lighter the color of the bass, the less the scratches will show up.
i'm thinking of a uniform semi-gloss.. i suppose i could matte the finish out, and reshoot it with a semi-gloss clear..
if i do anything, i'll disassemble the bass first..
if i do anything, i'll disassemble the bass first..
i'm thinking of a uniform semi-gloss.. i suppose i could matte the finish out, and reshoot it with a semi-gloss clear..
if i do anything, i'll disassemble the bass first..
Shooting it with a semigloss clear will probably not look as good as you rubbing out the existing finish yourself.
I've used the clear semi-gloss varnishes and they just look a bit artificial compared to the real thing. Sort of like a thin film of gunk has been sprayed on. At a distance it's usually passable to house painters and home renovator's standards. Just depends on how fussy you want to be. With an instrument, and particularly if I'm going to go to all that work anyhow, I want it to look as good as it can.
After rubbing it out to semi-gloss, you can buff it with a good furniture paste wax for a really rich look with a nice glow.
Myself I would sand the gloss to accept a finish, shoot it with a semigloss and then do the steel wool deal to even it out. Gloss is made to be gloss and will be buffed back in with use.
Would anyone really do this job without stripping all the hardware and electronics off the body?
Adrian
So will satin if you give it enough time. It's a matter of polishing.
Sand the surface down to satin and be done with it.
Why go to the extra trouble of putting on another coat when there is one on there already that just needs to be rubbed out to semi-gloss? Whatever you can buy to cover it with will probably not be as tough as what the factory sprayed on either. If the existing finish is in rough shape, then you can consider re-coating it.
You should remove everything that's in the way. You don't want to try steel wooling around obstacles.
The whole object is to improve the appearance of the bass. Might as well do it in a way that will accomplish that.
You should remove everything that's in the way. You don't want to try steel wooling around obstacles.
The whole object is to improve the appearance of the bass. Might as well do it in a way that will accomplish that.
