CTS pots for Squier VM Jazz Bass

If you make the change you're talking about, you will hear nothing different. The tone control is probably not working because the capacitor is not working and needs to be replaced. It's an easy fix if you're comfortable with soldering(and if you're not, you really should learn...it's not hard). A replacement cap is cheap. The other causes of the problem is the tone pot is bad or there is a broken solder joint. Just Google, "jazz bass wiring diagram" and it will show it to you.

 

...if you think it is the cap, just PM your address to me and I'll send you a one in the correct value (if you're in the U.S.) The postage will cost more than the cap. LOL

 

They are the same pot for bass or guitar. A
CTS 250k pot is a CTS 250k pot. The pot
may not be the problem though. You will
probably also need a .047uf capacitor.

Tabdog

 

The .047uf capacitor is the one I use on my Jazzes. Just wanted to say, I have nothing against folks in other parts of the world, I just didn't want to get into really high postage for a 30 cent part. If you have any problems finding the capacitor, PM me your address, I'll still send it over.

 

A voice from "the continent" (but spent 5x 14 days holidays in "non-typical tourist areas" of England and the IOM) ...

CTS surely produces "non audio" pots, too. But if the pots you have were for a Strat, they are 99.9% "Audio" - which are the same as in a Jazz Bass.
The only problem might be that the "E-chamber" (what's the right expression in Englisch?!!!) is not made for a "big" 24 mm CTS pot. The original Jazz Bass has 1" (25.4 mm). If the Chinese used metric 25 mm it would work, too. But I had "E-chambers" which were definatenly made for the smaller 16 mm pots ...
Just try if they fit ...

 

Two times by car but three time by motorbike ...
But not on the IOM during TT! And never been in London.

By "E-chamber" I mean the "hole in the wood" where pots and wirings come in ...
In Telecaster and JB copies the width sometimes is too narrow for a normal 24 mm (CTS) pot.

 

Is there an "A" or "B" marked on the pot? That references the "taper" of the pot.

 

Usually on bottom or side with the other numbers. I'll look through my old pots, but don't think I have any CTS. I'll check back later.

 

I didn't have any CTS. "A" or "B" is right before the value.



You could also check with a meter if you have one.

But either will work, A= audio taper, B= linear taper

 

I really hope you slipped and meant 0.047uF because I guarantee you a 47uF cap won't work in your bass.

--Silvie