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Cutting down a rack case?

Stev187

Peavey MegaBass Club!
Jan 11, 2011
965
130
Lansing, MI
So I bought a cheap 2 space rack case for one of my bass heads; turns out it's about 3" deeper than required and hangs off the back of my cabs quite a bit. I could just store cables back there and let it hang off, but I thought I might cut it down and make it a perfect fit.

Looks like pop rivets and an accurate saw are all that would be required to cut it down to perfect size. Anybody do this? Recommendations?

--Steve
 

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Unless you have replacement hardware / extrusions or the means to cleanly cut these extrusions and rivet the salvageable pieces back together, then no, do not do it. so what if it hangs off the back? You'd have to drill out the rivets, remove all the hardware, ensure you cut the box squarely the entire way around, trim down the front-back rails, then refit and re-rivet the other hardware back together and pray you aligned everything right. Seems like a whole lotta trouble and effort for a cheap rack.

Leave it, modify it cleanly, or sell this one and get another rack.
 
It can be done plenty clean/professional but it's tedious. Drill out all the rivets, take off all the hardware, cut box to length using appropriate wood blade, cut aluminum strips to length using appropriate metal blade, drill new holes for rivets, reassemble.
 
So I bought a cheap 2 space rack case for one of my bass heads; turns out it's about 3" deeper than required and hangs off the back of my cabs quite a bit. I could just store cables back there and let it hang off, but I thought I might cut it down and make it a perfect fit.

Looks like pop rivets and an accurate saw are all that would be required to cut it down to perfect size. Anybody do this? Recommendations?

--Steve

How much is a case that fits? Buy one and sell the one you have. It's not worth changing this- the value of doing this vs the time and effort/dubious results are more than likely to make you ask "Why the he!! did I bother?".

I would look for rubber strips that reach from one foot to the other and use those, instead of the little round ones. It would stay in place and it will still balance on the cabinet. If you can't find rubber strips, use plastic or wood and attach rubber to the bottom.
 
Yes it is tedious to do right, but it can be done.

The place that built mine did it for me, no extra charge. (Though at the time the shell had no lids or latches yet, and I was having them added.)
 
Use the extra space for storage. I have a small amp and wireless receiver mounted in my 4U case. I can also fit a power strip, small case containing 2 wireless transmitters, power cables, mic-mounted pick holder, and instrument cables in the back. They don't fall out the front because I mounted a faceplate with a lot of big holes over the empty spaces and twist-tied a rope of red LEDs to it.
 
Yes it is tedious to do right, but it can be done.

Thanks to everyone who provided positive/constructive comments and suggestions. I am just going to move the feet and let 'er hang off the back. Again, makes a good place to store cables (I can fit 2 speaker cables, a power strip, and a small extension cord in there!).

I came by this case very inexpensively, so it's no big deal. And the time it would take to cut it down and do it properly would be better spend practicing!

--Steve
 
Thanks to everyone who provided positive/constructive comments and suggestions. I am just going to move the feet and let 'er hang off the back. Again, makes a good place to store cables (I can fit 2 speaker cables, a power strip, and a small extension cord in there!).

Mine was a local custom job, not a cheapie... so I wanted it dialed in exactly right. I wouldn't have minded keeping the original depth (main shell was built to house previous amp, shortly before ordering the new one), for the extra storage space. But I needed every inch I could get to fit my rig into the back of the car. The few inches I gained were the difference between closing the hatch or not, so... worth it for me.

It's 5U, and a few pieces are shallower than the 2U main head, so I still have enough room for my speaker cables, the power lead to the rackmount strip, and an extension cord that powers my pedalboard. And the shallower depth fits my cab better. So it worked out.

In your case, that sounds like the right decision. Not worth the trouble without an actual "need" forcing it.