How did you see inside?I have the newer Longhorn, and honestly I think it's great the way it is. Mine has great sustain (no neckplate) and stays in tune. The intonations is a hair off, but I haven't gotten around to adjusting it yet.
I say leave it be. Have you looked on the insides of these things? It's just a wooden "rib" sandwiched between two thin pieces of masonite. I think any excess handling for installing straplocks could damage the instrument, but I could be wrong. Also the tuners seem to work well on mine.
Also: check out my kinda crappy video with my Longhorn.
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DANELECTRO LONGHORN PLAYERS: I Need Your Modification Ideas
- Thread starter electracoyote
- Start date
It is great the way it is.
But there is room for improvement IMHO. There are nicer tuners out there, and an intonable bridge is more accurate and easier to work with. Strap locks are mandatory on all my basses that ever get played while standing up. There are balance issues, and strap button placement could be a factor. Pickup output is a common complaint as well.
Really, for those of you who play them stock and love them that way, more power to you.
I'd like to hear from people who successfully modded their Longhorns.
Thanks everyone.
I say leave it too,some high end basses don't have neck plates so i don't think you should worry about it,play it and love it!!as i do mine!I have the newer Longhorn, and honestly I think it's great the way it is. Mine has great sustain (no neckplate) and stays in tune. The intonations is a hair off, but I haven't gotten around to adjusting it yet.
I say leave it be. Have you looked on the insides of these things? It's just a wooden "rib" sandwiched between two thin pieces of masonite. I think any excess handling for installing straplocks could damage the instrument, but I could be wrong. Also the tuners seem to work well on mine.
Also: check out my kinda crappy video with my Longhorn
It is great the way it is.
But there is room for improvement IMHO. There are nicer tuners out there, and an intonable bridge is more accurate and easier to work with. Strap locks are mandatory on all my basses that ever get played while standing up. There are balance issues, and strap button placement could be a factor. Pickup output is a common complaint as well.
Really, for those of you who play them stock and love them that way, more power to you.
I'd like to hear from people who successfully modded their Longhorns.
Thanks everyone.
My "Pro" version of the Longhorn has a bridge with individual adjustable saddles I've found it to be a PITA to adjust. It also has enclosed tuners that are much heavier that the regular tuners and does nothing to improve neck dive, in fact, it makes the dive considerably worse.
Here's the Allparts shot of that bridge:
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Jerry Jones used to use a 4 saddle bridge based on the Dano shape. I have one of his singlecut and shorthorn basses with that bridge and it adjusts from the back ala Fender. Now he uses a different bridge more closely based on the Fender model but I think the string spread is wider.
Here's the Allparts shot of that bridge:
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
Jerry Jones used to use a 4 saddle bridge based on the Dano shape. I have one of his singlecut and shorthorn basses with that bridge and it adjusts from the back ala Fender. Now he uses a different bridge more closely based on the Fender model but I think the string spread is wider.
Thanks mongo. I've seen this bridge and it's one of the more obvious choices. You're right, it's not the easiest to work with, I think I had one once and ended up selling it before I ever installed it because I could see it could be more trouble than it was worth.
Here are a few Danos that my techs and I have converted to baritones. We did a lot of mods, so I know the Dano will take to upgrades pretty well.
(click to enlarge)
The only purpose of this thread was to see if there is something I may be missing and learn from people who have souped up their Longhorn basses about what they did, what it involved, and whether it constituted a significant improvement.
Trust me, the instinct to just play it as-is is quite strong, but I'm pretty sure some things can be improved upon.
Showing pictures are we?
Here's the Danelectro "U3 Bass" I created using a Longhorn neck, a U3 Guitar body, and a stick bridge:
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Another is a "Convertible Bass" I made from a Longhorn neck, Convertible Guitar body and the aforementioned "PITA bridge" (now the official designation)
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I also cobbled a "U2 Bass" but I don't have a picture of it.
Here's the Danelectro "U3 Bass" I created using a Longhorn neck, a U3 Guitar body, and a stick bridge:
Link Removed
Another is a "Convertible Bass" I made from a Longhorn neck, Convertible Guitar body and the aforementioned "PITA bridge" (now the official designation)
Link Removed
I also cobbled a "U2 Bass" but I don't have a picture of it.
Showing pictures are we?
Here's the Danelectro "U3 Bass" I created using a Longhorn neck, a U3 Guitar body, and a stick bridge:
Link Removed
Another is a "Convertible Bass" I made from a Longhorn neck, Convertible Guitar body and the aforementioned "PITA bridge" (now the official designation)
Link Removed
I also cobbled a "U2 Bass" but I don't have a picture of it.
Nice!
So, you know as well as I that there are lots of possibilities with these little underrated gems.
I spent some time researching how to get the most out of the baritone conversion and do it correctly.
Now I'm trying to do the same with the upgrades to the bass.
Again, any successful mods or upgrades involving the Danelectro Longhorn bass, please share. Thanks.
Thanks,
The criteria for my "basses that Dano never built" collection was to use readily available stock RI parts. Sure, I had to mod the neck pockets slightly to handle the bass neck and I had to install small blocks in the hollow Convertible body for the bridge screws but other than that, I've never felt the need to stray from the basic Dano concept. Growing up in a town between the two Dano factories and seeing them around all my life I grew to have an appreication how good these simple instruments are.
The criteria for my "basses that Dano never built" collection was to use readily available stock RI parts. Sure, I had to mod the neck pockets slightly to handle the bass neck and I had to install small blocks in the hollow Convertible body for the bridge screws but other than that, I've never felt the need to stray from the basic Dano concept. Growing up in a town between the two Dano factories and seeing them around all my life I grew to have an appreication how good these simple instruments are.
Indeed, you and a couple of others have made that pretty clear.
I will be straying.
Anyone else have suggestions for mods and improvements on the areas I outlined?
Like yourself, I have an early Evets RI ('00) and like others, I love my Longhorn just the way it is with one exception... The wiring. Sometimes the concentric controls get on my nerves... Thinking about wiring both pickups in Series with a simple V/T setup... I'll letcha know how it goes...
-robert
-robert
Most of this is repeating what others have said but I've played these for a long time as my main instruments so I'll throw in my 2 cents.
Unless it's really bad I'd play the bridge on it for a while before I made any changes. I like the sound and feel of the wood saddle and haven't had any problem intonating them. The individual saddle bridges intonate more easily and sound different. It's really personal preference. To tell the truth the difference in feel is more important to me than the difference in sound.
Most guitar tuners will fit. I've put Grovers and Gotohs on Danos and Jerry Jones. If the stock ones stay in tune though...
Pull the plastic strap buttons out, fill the holes with dowel and install regular buttons. As you've discovered the plastic ones blow.
A non-issue
I liked the stock ones. To my ears the Seymour Duncans and the Jerry Jones p.ups sound similar to the Dano re-issues. I suspect most of the direct Dano replacements are designed to be pretty close to the originals. Seems true for the ones I've used....others out there I haven't tried might sound different.
I've had Dano re-issues, Jerry Jones copies and a custom Dano type made to my specs. Those re-issues are what they are and I'd just fix the strap buttons and play the thing.
I owned the original Longhorn in 1961. The first re-issue is a much better bass. I bought the long scale DC 4 string when the re-issues came out. It has all the same hardware and pickups as the Longhorn, just 34" scale.
I feel that wooden bridge is a big part of the sound so I keep mine in. Mine hasn't sagged but I use Thomastic flats which have a bit lower tension. Some guys have shaped a small block of hardwood and jammed it under the centre of the baseplate to prevent sagging.
I also kept the stock guitar sized tuners. They aren't the greatest, but they stay in tune and are light and part of the look. They just are a little harder to turn than bigger tuners. The pickups are the weak spot for me. Way too much noise and too much treble. I was in touch with a fellow who bought some Kent Armstrong replacements and he said they were a big improvement. I plan to try a pair soon in my DC.
I took a look inside at the wiring. What a rats nest. When I replace the pickups I'm going to replace all of it and get rid of all those ridiculously long leads. That should cut out some of the noise too.
I really like the DC and bought it over the short scale Longorn because I figured it would have a bit more of an even sound. It does but otherwise is quite close to the Longhorn with a bit of added sustain.
Incidentally, the DC was never a part of the original Danelectro lineup but was conceived for the 90s re-issue. All the original Danelectros were short scale. And they came with round wound strings even though some people claim round wounds weren't invented until the late 60s.
My 61 Longorn was my first bass. I learned to play on it and after a year traded it in for a Fender P. You had to have P bass if you were to be taken seriously then. The Danelectro was considered a cheap toy bass back then. Amazing how cool they are considered to be now along with other cheap basses back then such as the Harmony. I bought my Longhorn in 1961 from a Seattle music store for $80. I got about $150 trade in trade in allowance when I got my first Fender. That Fender was about $385 Canadian then with the case included. A lot of money in those days.
I love the Longhorn for a lightweight bass you can sling over your shoulder in a gig bag and ride public transport easily. It was nice when I lived in Toronto and often had to jump on a subway to go to a rehearsal across town during the day when I didn't have use of the car.
I feel that wooden bridge is a big part of the sound so I keep mine in. Mine hasn't sagged but I use Thomastic flats which have a bit lower tension. Some guys have shaped a small block of hardwood and jammed it under the centre of the baseplate to prevent sagging.
I also kept the stock guitar sized tuners. They aren't the greatest, but they stay in tune and are light and part of the look. They just are a little harder to turn than bigger tuners. The pickups are the weak spot for me. Way too much noise and too much treble. I was in touch with a fellow who bought some Kent Armstrong replacements and he said they were a big improvement. I plan to try a pair soon in my DC.
I took a look inside at the wiring. What a rats nest. When I replace the pickups I'm going to replace all of it and get rid of all those ridiculously long leads. That should cut out some of the noise too.
I really like the DC and bought it over the short scale Longorn because I figured it would have a bit more of an even sound. It does but otherwise is quite close to the Longhorn with a bit of added sustain.
Incidentally, the DC was never a part of the original Danelectro lineup but was conceived for the 90s re-issue. All the original Danelectros were short scale. And they came with round wound strings even though some people claim round wounds weren't invented until the late 60s.
My 61 Longorn was my first bass. I learned to play on it and after a year traded it in for a Fender P. You had to have P bass if you were to be taken seriously then. The Danelectro was considered a cheap toy bass back then. Amazing how cool they are considered to be now along with other cheap basses back then such as the Harmony. I bought my Longhorn in 1961 from a Seattle music store for $80. I got about $150 trade in trade in allowance when I got my first Fender. That Fender was about $385 Canadian then with the case included. A lot of money in those days.
I love the Longhorn for a lightweight bass you can sling over your shoulder in a gig bag and ride public transport easily. It was nice when I lived in Toronto and often had to jump on a subway to go to a rehearsal across town during the day when I didn't have use of the car.
This thread is so very topical to me right now in more ways than one... Yesterday, I finally received my '63 Long Scale back (after a nine-month loan) and remembered an 'upgrade' that I had performed...
When I purchased it used, nearly a year ago, it had some very light stainless rounds on it (not my sound at all)... I put some Chromes on it and the action jumped up tremendously. Adjusting the truss rod provided some relief, but most of the problem appearred to be in the neck-joint, with the screw heads sinking into the back. I pulled the neck off and inserted some threaded brss inserts into the neck, using machine screws with washers to reconnect everything. Way better joint, and the washers gave more surface area to the bolts holding the neck, keeping them from sinking... I could have probably just used the washers (or perhaps a neck plate as you are thinking) but wanted to really solidify things and went with inserts as well... Brought everything back into line...
I've never felt the need to do this with the Longhorn, but there ir is...
-robert
When I purchased it used, nearly a year ago, it had some very light stainless rounds on it (not my sound at all)... I put some Chromes on it and the action jumped up tremendously. Adjusting the truss rod provided some relief, but most of the problem appearred to be in the neck-joint, with the screw heads sinking into the back. I pulled the neck off and inserted some threaded brss inserts into the neck, using machine screws with washers to reconnect everything. Way better joint, and the washers gave more surface area to the bolts holding the neck, keeping them from sinking... I could have probably just used the washers (or perhaps a neck plate as you are thinking) but wanted to really solidify things and went with inserts as well... Brought everything back into line...
I've never felt the need to do this with the Longhorn, but there ir is...
-robert
rllefebv, 62bass, nic slsus, thank you so much for your input.
On the baritones pictured above, my tech and I were able to drill new holes for Gotoh bridges, clean up the electronics, add after-market gold concentric knobs, a Bigsby on one, and Gotoh tuners. What they lost in the original cheap mojo they gained in accuracy and stability. I replaced the original lipsticks with the gold-toned aftermarket variety from Guitarfetish.com, higher output, they sound great. I will play with the stock pickups, insert some new foam or springs, experiment with the height, and see what happens, but I may chuck them in favor of the Guitarfetish or Kent Armstrong, maybe the SDs.
So, in short, where there's a will, there's a mod. The strap buttons and tuners for sure are going. Strap locks are a non-negotiable. The stock tuners hold pretty well, but you can tell as you turn them they are cheap and not rotating smoothly.
Again, thanks for the suggestions everyone.
On the baritones pictured above, my tech and I were able to drill new holes for Gotoh bridges, clean up the electronics, add after-market gold concentric knobs, a Bigsby on one, and Gotoh tuners. What they lost in the original cheap mojo they gained in accuracy and stability. I replaced the original lipsticks with the gold-toned aftermarket variety from Guitarfetish.com, higher output, they sound great. I will play with the stock pickups, insert some new foam or springs, experiment with the height, and see what happens, but I may chuck them in favor of the Guitarfetish or Kent Armstrong, maybe the SDs.
So, in short, where there's a will, there's a mod. The strap buttons and tuners for sure are going. Strap locks are a non-negotiable. The stock tuners hold pretty well, but you can tell as you turn them they are cheap and not rotating smoothly.
Again, thanks for the suggestions everyone.
Are these the pickups you used?
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How are they going?
Still got/using this Dano bass?
Yes, those worked out great. I went no further than the Guitarfetish and stock versions, they do the trick nicely.
Not playing much Dano bass or bari these days, but I have some songwriting and recording sessions coming, so who knows.
Awesome, thanks.
We’re they quieter for noise? I’ve got 60hz hum and treble hiss in mine, currently exploring options to remedy that.
