Danelectro Longhorn - that aluminum nut

[Winterwind]

I know the aluminum nut is part of what makes a Danelectro a Danelectro but I'm wondering if I should swap it. Or just swap strings. Or have a tech do a little work on the nut...

There's a slight, metallic vibration on the open E and A strings.

I've played with flats on my basses since I started playing bass and, in another thread, wondered about keeping rounds on my Longhorn or switching to flats.

But... I'm new to Longhorns and roundwounds. I have a Danelectro 12-string with the aluminum nut and no issues (far lighter guage strings obviously) so I'm wondering if the slight vibrations on my bass are normal, simply "what you get" with roundwounds and an aluminum nut.

 

[Bill Whitehurst]

If the strings on it now are a lighter gauge then the originals, the nut nut slots might have a little slack.

 

[Winterwind]

If the strings on it now are a lighter gauge then the originals, the nut nut slots might have a little slack.

I just bought it, brand new, a month or so before Christmas. Still has the stock strings, .045 - .100.

Now, it's still possible that the slots aren't exactly right. The "paper trick" in the slot lessened it a titch on the E. I haven't tried it on the A but mainly, I'm wondering how much metallic vibration is normal.

I have no real reference since an aluminum nut and roundwounds are a brand new combination for me.

 

[iAsh]

I know the aluminum nut is part of what makes a Danelectro a Danelectro but I'm wondering if I should swap it. Or just swap strings. Or have a tech do a little work on the nut...

There's a slight, metallic vibration on the open E and A strings.

I've played with flats on my basses since I started playing bass and, in another thread, wondered about keeping rounds on my Longhorn or switching to flats.

But... I'm new to Longhorns and roundwounds. I have a Danelectro 12-string with the aluminum nut and no issues (far lighter guage strings obviously) so I'm wondering if the slight vibrations on my bass are normal, simply "what you get" with roundwounds and an aluminum nut.

This is not something you have to live with. Use the strings that deliver the sound you like. If the slots are too big get a new bone nut made (keep the old one if down the road you sell the bass). With absolutely no intent to offend here choosing strings to keep a nut is kind of an ass backwards approach.

If you have concerns about changing the sound the sonic differences between aluminum and bone aren’t that significant compared to being able to use the strings you want. I’ve had several old Danos with aluminum nuts and four Jerry Jones with bone nuts and IMO the nut material is a very minor part of why these basses sound like they do.

All this said an opinion from an experienced reputable luthier who’s seen the instrument is really what you need. The internet is full of incomplete and just plain bad advice.

 

[Winterwind]

This is not something you have to live with. Use the strings that deliver the sound you like. If the slots are too big get a new bone nut made (keep the old one if down the road you sell the bass). With absolutely no intent to offend here choosing strings to keep a nut is kind of an ass backwards approach.

If you have concerns about changing the sound the sonic differences between aluminum and bone aren’t that significant compared to being able to use the strings you want. I’ve had several old Danos with aluminum nuts and four Jerry Jones with bone nuts and IMO the nut material is a very minor part of why these basses sound like they do.

All this said an opinion from an experienced reputable luthier who’s seen the instrument is really what you need. The internet is full of incomplete and just plain bad advice.

I'm not offended. Bemused but not offended. Who's choosing strings to keep a nut? That's an interesting interpretation.

 

[WillyW]

Sounds like the E and A slots are cut too deep.

I have aluminum, brass, bone, and plastic nuts. I can’t tell any difference in materials.

 

[iAsh]

26137720[/URL], member: 386861"]Who's choosing strings to keep a nut? That's an interesting interpretation.

It’s a reasonable interpretation given what you wrote:

26136439[/URL], member: 386861"]I know the aluminum nut is part of what makes a Danelectro a Danelectro but I'm wondering if I should swap it. Or just swap strings.

Or just swap strings? That sounds an awful lot like choosing strings to accommodate a nut. Only other thing it could mean is getting a different set of the same strings which makes no freaking sense at all.

 

[GretschWretch]

Could it be that the break angle on the E and A strings is too shallow to create a firm witness point?

 

[Winterwind]

It’s a reasonable interpretation given what you wrote:

Or just swap strings? That sounds an awful lot like choosing strings to accommodate a nut. Only other thing it could mean is getting a different set of the same strings which makes no freaking sense at all.

It's a simple question... so simple I didn't feel the need to qualify things with a wall of text but, since I have a few minutes to spare...

FACT - Roundwounds have a more metallic sound when playing than flats. That difference in sound is apparent both through the amp and unplugged.

Now, I've been playing guitar for 37 years and bass for 20.

Of those 20 years on bass, they've all been on a Hofner with flats.

My only experience with another type of bass, and roundwound strings for that matter, is one week last summer with a Mustang PJ and then this Longhorn which I picked up a month or so prior to Christmas.

So, with it being an established and understood fact that roundwounds, again, have a more metallic sound than flats and with the Longhorn having an aluminum nut, when you break it down, well, gee, it seems a simple question really...

How much of a metallic vibration, based on the use of an aluminum nut and rounds, is normal?

The question about switching strings to flats (my clearly established preference) is because flats already have a less metallic sound and that eliminates one element of equation, doesn't it. If I put the flats on and I don't hear the slight vibration then it would indicate that the combination of an aluminum nut and rounds does cause a vibration I can hear.

Now, if I'd played 20 or 30 basses with rounds and aluminum nuts I'd have a large sample from which to draw my own conclusion. But since my sample is limited to only one experience... gee, why not ask what is and isn't normal.

Again, seems like such a simple question.

If I suspected a problem with the slots it'd be on it's way to a tech. But since what I'm hearing is minor, and may even be normal based on the components, I figured I'd ask before carting it off to the tech.

Heh, to add further to the wall of text... my wife can't hear it but I can. But then my hearing is more sensitive than hers.

 

[tpaul]

The nut may be cut improperly or installed improperly, or the strings may be defective.

But the first thing to check is that there's enough downward pressure on the nut, in other words the string break angle across the nut is not too shallow. Each string should be wound DOWN the tuner peg and have enough windings to create a good break angle.

If this isn't the problem, you might want to check to locate the source of the vibration. Pluck the string and then touch the tuner, press the string behind the nut, and also touch the saddle and the string behind the saddle. It's possible you are hearing a vibrating piece of metal.

 

[iAsh]

It's a simple question... so simple I didn't feel the need to qualify things with a wall of text but, since I have a few minutes to spare...

FACT - Roundwounds have a more metallic sound when playing than flats. That difference in sound is apparent both through the amp and unplugged.

Now, I've been playing guitar for 37 years and bass for 20.

Of those 20 years on bass, they've all been on a Hofner with flats.

My only experience with another type of bass, and roundwound strings for that matter, is one week last summer with a Mustang PJ and then this Longhorn which I picked up a month or so prior to Christmas.

So, with it being an established and understood fact that roundwounds, again, have a more metallic sound than flats and with the Longhorn having an aluminum nut, when you break it down, well, gee, it seems a simple question really...

How much of a metallic vibration, based on the use of an aluminum nut and rounds, is normal?

The question about switching strings to flats (my clearly established preference) is because flats already have a less metallic sound and that eliminates one element of equation, doesn't it. If I put the flats on and I don't hear the slight vibration then it would indicate that the combination of an aluminum nut and rounds does cause a vibration I can hear.

Now, if I'd played 20 or 30 basses with rounds and aluminum nuts I'd have a large sample from which to draw my own conclusion. But since my sample is limited to only one experience... gee, why not ask what is and isn't normal.

Again, seems like such a simple question.

If I suspected a problem with the slots it'd be on it's way to a tech. But since what I'm hearing is minor, and may even be normal based on the components, I figured I'd ask before carting it off to the tech.

Heh, to add further to the wall of text... my wife can't hear it but I can. But then my hearing is more sensitive than hers.

Have a blessed day.

 

[mongo2]

Don't know if it helps but I use D'Addario nylon tapewounds on my Dano and Silvertone basses.

 

[AlexanderB]

I was puzzled by a similar issue on my longhorn. Turned out I had two consecutive sets of defect strings, E was rattling in both. Third set was OK, and I have never had the issue otherwise in 25 years of playing multiple basses. I think the alu nut will emphasize issues of this kind.

 

[mcgreivey]

Though, yes, it's possible the nut slot is too big, and the buzz is from the string vibrating side-to-side, it's also possible that your buzz that can happen with any nut if the bottom of the shot slopes slightly downward toward the fretboard, rather than not sloping slightly backwards toward the headstock, as it should. If the bottom of the slopes toward the fretboard, you could get buzz, kinda like the buzz you'd get on purpose from a Danelectro sitar buzz bridge. It's worth checking, before you replace the nut. If this is the problem, than a couple seconds with a fret file would fix it.

 

[Winterwind]

Well...

Since a certain retailer here in Canada busted the truss rod on my Hofner the Longhorn is now my only bass instead of my backup bass.

So, I put finally put flats on it which mitigated the rattley vibration on the open E to an extent compared to the stock rounds.

But two things...

There's still an issue with the nut. Still some unwanted vibration (really noticeable acoustically if I'm just practicing and also noticeable through the amp. A little downward pressure on the strings between the nut and tuners eliminates it so the nut definitely needs some filing. The retailer that killed my Hofner is also who I bought the Longhorn from and they got me a new nut so... whoever I take it to will have a backup incase the current one has any problems.

But the worst issue... the E string, open or fretted, sounds terrible. The tone is terrible, there's a massive warble.

I've tried tweaking the pickup height, I've raised it, lowered it... actually lowering it a lot produced the best result but nothing I do makes it sound right. I almost had it, sounded good until the 12 fret so I thought "good enough". Loosened the strings to try and tweak intonation, tuned back up and pfft... the E sounded worse than ever.

The string, as is, is completely unusable.

I am not having any luck these days. Maybe I'm jinxed and don't know it.

 

[mcgreivey]

Is

Well...

Since a certain retailer here in Canada busted the truss rod on my Hofner the Longhorn is now my only bass instead of my backup bass.

So, I put finally put flats on it which mitigated the rattley vibration on the open E to an extent compared to the stock rounds.

But two things...

There's still an issue with the nut. Still some unwanted vibration (really noticeable acoustically if I'm just practicing and also noticeable through the amp. A little downward pressure on the strings between the nut and tuners eliminates it so the nut definitely needs some filing. The retailer that killed my Hofner is also who I bought the Longhorn from and they got me a new nut so... whoever I take it to will have a backup incase the current one has any problems.

But the worst issue... the E string, open or fretted, sounds terrible. The tone is terrible, there's a massive warble.

I've tried tweaking the pickup height, I've raised it, lowered it... actually lowering it a lot produced the best result but nothing I do makes it sound right. I almost had it, sounded good until the 12 fret so I thought "good enough". Loosened the strings to try and tweak intonation, tuned back up and pfft... the E sounded worse than ever.

The string, as is, is completely unusable.

I am not having any luck these days. Maybe I'm jinxed and don't know it.

Did it make the "warble" with the original strings? If not, then it's probably the new E string.

But if it sounded bad with the original E string,...

I don't know what "warble" means, but has it been properly set up?

 

[Winterwind]

Is


Did it make the "warble" with the original strings? If not, then it's probably the new E string.

But if it sounded bad with the original E string,...

I don't know what "warble" means, but has it been properly set up?

It did, yes.

I've done a tone of reading about it. Sure, short scales can have issues with the low E. I've had two Hofners and the low E always sounded fine. I've read a few threads about folks having similar issues to mine with Longhorns and the low E always sounds just a little off.

Mine warbled with rounds and the new flats.

Aside from the nut needing some work, the setup is good.

I'm hoping having the nut properly filed and then just tweaking the pickup height will get things closer to being useable.

 

[HelpImaRock]

Have you tried removing the nut and re-seating it? It's only held in with a screw, and should be fairly easy to do. If that doesn't work, you could also buy a new nut. It's possible the old one is defective in some way. They're about $10-$15 each.

 

[Winterwind]

Have you tried removing the nut and re-seating it? It's only held in with a screw, and should be fairly easy to do. If that doesn't work, you could also buy a new nut. It's possible the old one is defective in some way. They're about $10-$15 each.

I found a tech I trust, did great work on my Gretsch Penguin, and I already have a replacement nut. So, if the current one needs more than filing, I have a new one ready for him.

Unfortunately he won't be back from vacation until mid-April.

 

[mcgreivey]

Just be aware, there are great techs who don't know Danelectros, and might try to recommend doing something radical. I've never had a problem that couldn't be adjusted away, or fixed with very minor surgery. As discussed above, sometimes tuners fail, or bridge plate fails, and need to be replaced, but not much else. My Danos are dependable, sound nice, and play in tune, with proper maintenance