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Defretted

Has anyone used a "fish-eye" or crater remover additive mixed in with the epoxy to allow the epoxy to stick to rosewood better? I've used this with polyurethane lacquer with good results, but wasn't sure if it was compatible with epoxy.
 
Don't believe it would work with epoxy, besides epoxy lays out real nice on its own. If you have had trouble getting it to attach before, use something to remove the oils from the wood. Body oils and humidity may hurt it adhearing, only thing coming to mind for me would be alcohol. Others here may have better idea's about what to use. I would also advise roughing the board up with like 40 or 60 grit sand paper, give the epoxy something to hold onto.
 
I used wire from an old spiral notebook, cut to size and hammered into the slots. Wanted to keep the strength in the neck, instead of creating a flex-joint by removing the frets and leaving it. I then poly coated the board using the resin used in automotive fiberglass, sanded, and buffed to a glass finish. Man did that thing growl!

Ps. Got no PM MNairhead not sure you got mine. Using a blackberry, so you never know.

Interesting with the wire.. never thought of that.

I''ve had zero issues with a defret and no fill.

Does look cool from a distance with tapewounds.. most bass players scram when they see it.

Tim
 
Yeah, under the epoxy you could barely tell there was anything there. Main reason I used it was this was my first attempt at fretless. Didn't want to fill the fret slots with epoxy in case I didn't like fretless. Cutting epoxy out to do a refret would have been expensive, and time consuming.

The neck was thin profile, and not that strong. Was afraid of leaving the slotts empty, might have cracked the neck with a 130 B string and a very agressive playing style.

All were unknowns from an inexperienced amature(?) Luthier. Turned out real nice, then I tried other body mods. After about a year of good playing it gave up. Folded clean in half after my last neck profile change. WHOOPS!!!