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Differences in all the Fender Precisions

So which P do you play?

  • Standard Precision

    Votes: 14 16.7%

  • 50's RI Precision

    Votes: 6 7.1%

  • Highway One Precision

    Votes: 4 4.8%

  • Road Worn 50's Precision

    Votes: 3 3.6%

  • American Standard Precision

    Votes: 29 34.5%

  • American Vintage '62 Precision

    Votes: 10 11.9%

  • American Vintage '57 Precision

    Votes: 7 8.3%

  • Vintage Carrots Precision

    Votes: 22 26.2%
  • Total voters
    84
jmattbassplaya

jmattbassplaya

Supporting Member
Jan 13, 2008
11,837
9,833
#1
*Did a search, didn`t find exactly what I was looking for*

Hey guys,

So I know there`s about a million threads already discussing the differences between MIA and MIM Fender`s and their quality, tone, necks, etc.. but I have yet to read anything actually discussing the difference between all the models and if there really is any difference between them.

Sure - some of them have different decals, slightly different finish options, originate from different countries, have different hardware, etc.. but in the end aren`t they all just just P basses and sound (virtually) the exact same? I guess what I`m asking is are the differences (for the most part) purely cosmetic? (I mean let`s face it, for the most part tuners are tuners and knobs are knobs. I consider those differences minute at best)

I`m not asking this to start a flame war or anything or to have people get defensive about their own purchases, I`m just asking because I`m really interested in finally picking up a Fender P and I want to know if by buying an American Vintage 62 P I`m really getting that much more of a bass than say an American Standard, 50's RI, Highway One, or a Road Worn. I know most people say just play and buy whatever sounds and feels nice to you, but half the time I can`t even tell what kind of model I`m playing in person and I plan on buying used so that`s not really an option.

So yeah, any opinions or advice? Is there a reason why you bought the P bass you`re playing vs. all the other models? And as a side rant, why does it seem no model makes a natural P with a rosewood board and a black pickguard option?
 
#2
I think if you are buying used then any of the models you mentioned above will be good value for money. When people suggest you should buy what feels and sounds good to you they are giving you sound advice. Even buying used...if you can try the bass before you buy then you'll avoid dissapointment. I think you will find there are some tone differences depending on whether you are playing a reissue (vintage styled pickups) or a standard model. The necks widths also vary depending on whether you are talking reissue or standard. Like any mass produced basses there are good ones and not so good ones. That said, the Fender Standard P basses from 2008 onwards generally receive great reviews from their owners and the overall quality seems much improved over previous years. The Highway Ones are also great value for money.

Personally I like Fender Japan products. A little less expensive than their U.S. cousins and good value for money. Why does Fender not offer a black p with a black p guard? Not sure about that one but the cost to replace the guard isn't too bad. With the models you mentioned I wouldn't be concerned so much over quality, just narrow down your choices and find one in decent shape, with no issues and selling at a fair price.
 
#5
I can't vote... I play an American Deluxe.... !

I also have a parts '57 P but I need to replace the body. It's gonna have two P pickups..

I've had "Pluses" and "Elites" , American standards and MIMs...each one had it's own character, but they all had ( more or less ) that P-Bass "Tone" the one that cuts through the mix and is still solid, the sound that (I believe) is a P-Bass's main characteristic.
 
#6
I have a '75 A-necked P that I bought new in mid '77.
My main player (and only) for years.
I bought a '03 '51RI (in '03)..... gigged with it at times, mainly used the '75.
I then bought a '01 MIM Standard P and made it into a '59 Wannabe.... gigged with it until I bought a '06 Classic '50s P.
That became my main player ... just recently started playing my '09 Classic '50s P that I bought almost a year ago. It is my main player ..... right now.

All my basses are great to play and sounded fine to my ears. Necks of course, had different feels, but that doesn't bother me.

All of my basses tend to sound the same ... by the time I'm done tweaking amp knobs! :D
 
#7
I originally wasn't going to spend the extra coin on a MIA Fender P-bass and was going to buy a MIM one. But everyone that I spoke to that played a MIM had some or a lot of work done to it: New pickups, new bridge, new tuners and/or fret work. That adds up in cost and that's when I decided to just go for the MIA. I've been playing that 2006 P-bass for nearly 4 years and I haven't done any rework to it except add strap lock pegs (and change strings, of course!).
 
#8
But everyone that I spoke to that played a MIM had some or a lot of work done to it: New pickups, new bridge, new tuners and/or fret work.
Click to expand...

I can somewhat understand that with the MIM Standard P
(although I had no problems with mine) ..... but IMHO,
the MIM Classic '50s P is great as is. Better tuners, pups, pots, etc.
 
#9
stratovani said:
What, no Squiers?
Click to expand...

Not really interested (and I`ll be the first to admit I LOVE the CV line). I went through the "cheap" bass phase and I now have a total of 8 basses when I probably only need 3 at most. I bought most of those basses because they were cheap and because I thought that I just had to have a hollow body or a fretless... turns out I never even use em at all :hmm:

Anyways, I figure a Squier P would see a similar fate and I`d rather just pick up something nice because I`ll be more inclined to actually take it out and play it because I spent good money on it. Hopefully that makes sense.

In any case, I also already have a P bass that I built from one of those Saga kits. Really nice sounding and it plays nice, but I want a real Fender... I just need to now know if there really is that big of a difference (if any) between all those models.
 
#12
but since you have had so many,why not search out a `gennie' from preCBS and see if you can find some magic there

*sigh*,people say they have the tone:confused:,,or sell 5 or 6 off and build a custom(witch yes i know you said you had one already)but i don't see how given raw cash to expend it HAS to be a FENDER,,

i mean can you verify Leo sanded the body and bonked the frets in the neck?,,i'd think warmoth components with some aftermarket electrics would blow a `fender' away like a stock chevy motor versus an edelbrock:confused:
 
#14
"There`s so many different models of essentially the same bass and I wanted to know if there really was any real difference between all the them or if the differences really were, more or less, cosmetic only."

I think you have to stop looking at how many different models of p basses there are and focus on what you want to spend. What's your budget? You haven't said what you are prepared to spend on your bass.... As far as how Fender P's differ from one another, if you are looking at U.S. made p basses, the quality of the components should be similar across the board. The MIM models can play as well as the American ones but the overall quality of components in the U.S. basses is higher than the MIM basses (standard models anyways...not sure about the Roadworns). I have no experience with the new MIM's but have heard good things. I wouldn't be concerned with the overall quality of any of the basses you mentioned. Buy the best one you can for the money you are prepared to spend.
 
#15
You can learn a lot from reviewing the specs on Fender's web site, which include nut width, rear profile shape, fretboard radius, fret size, whether the neck has graphite reinforcement, bridge type, etc. To know which you would prefer, of course, you need to play them. Once you figure out which model you like most for your budget, look used.

IMO, the biggest differences are with the necks. The MIM Standards, Highway Ones, and American Standards have 1.625" nut width, medium jumbo frets, and 9.5" fretboard radius. The American Vintage (and MIM Classic 50's, I believe) have 1.75" nut width, narrow vintage frets, and 7.25" fretboard radius. To me, that produces a very different feel, and I generally prefer the 1.625" nut width necks, though I have liked the Classic 50's models I've played. When you figure out which general neck type you prefer, you can narrow it down from there based on price and other features.
 
#16
jmattbassplaya said:
Well there is a carrots option ;)

That was also my point in a roundabout way. There`s so many different models of essentially the same bass and I wanted to know if there really was any real difference between all the them or if the differences really were, more or less, cosmetic only.
Click to expand...

I really believe that the only difference between the vast amount of P-Bass models is 1) the build quality 2) the parts used (american or cheaper electronics and hardware) and 3) the inherent tone of each individual instrument.

They are all going to sound VERY similar. The biggest difference (as I hear it) would be having a bridge pickup (J or whatever) and active or passive electronics. and even then either one of those differences wouldn't mask that "P-Bass sound".

I personally like to have stabilizing rods in the neck (or multi lam.neck) so that means an American model. That's the price break point for me.
 
#18
Nedmundo said:
IMO, the biggest differences are with the necks. The MIM Standards, Highway Ones, and American Standards have 1.625" nut width, medium jumbo frets, and 9.5" fretboard radius. The American Vintage (and MIM Classic 50's, I believe) have 1.75" nut width, narrow vintage frets, and 7.25" fretboard radius. To me, that produces a very different feel, and I generally prefer the 1.625" nut width necks, though I have liked the Classic 50's models I've played. When you figure out which general neck type you prefer, you can narrow it down from there based on price and other features.
Click to expand...

Yes the 50s P does have the neck described above. I personally love the width, profile, and thin frets...

topcat2069 said:
I personally like to have stabilizing rods in the neck (or multi lam.neck) so that means an American model. That's the price break point for me.
Click to expand...

I thought the Hwy 1's had stabilizing rods also?
 
#19
I have 4 Precisions, so I'm kinda all over the map on the poll. In any case, the two I dig the most are:

1 - My 50th Anniversary Addition P.

2 - Franken P (Dark Horse relic body in burgundy mist, 80's USA Chandler neck, Antiquity II pup).

Both play awesome and are 8ish lbs and tone is to die for!

IMG_0177.jpg
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fredwpurpleP.jpg
 
#20
I'll go so far as to step up to the plate with an Affinity. My most beloved bass is my saved-from-the-dross pile Affinity P-bass.

I got it with a body cracked through from the neck pocket to the pick-up cavity. The neck was bowed, the truss rod over-cranked and stripped and there was a crack in the fretboard between the nut and the first fret.

I set out to rescue it by pulling the frets and filling with putty, re-radiusing the fretboard with a Stew-Mac sanding block, and drilling through the body with a paddle bit and reinforcing it with oak dowel.

The electronics were still in great shape, and I just dropped the loaded scratch plate right in.

Covered the whole thing with "Wacky-Pack" stickers (remember those?:D), strung it up with Roto 66's, and put it back together.

Maybe I love her 'cause she's got a face only a mother could love, but to my ears it's the best sounding fretless P-bass I've ever heard and I'll never get rid of it--not that anyone else would want it!:rollno:
 

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