DIY 1x10 cab help

[will33]

I think the current design I have drawn up is slightly larger than a cubic foot excluding the ports. I'll have to double check the dimensions though. Would blocking off the top or bottom port on each side work in the same manner? Design wise, that seems simpler to me.

It would.

Just to be anally particular about it, I would block off the top section on one side and the bottom section on the other. That would keep the ports, and thus internal cab air pressure more "even" around the driver. This serves to reduce the onset of cone rocking under high power and allows the cab to play cleaner, louder.

It's not really that big a deal in a cab that size, there's really not enough pressure. It can help though when trying to shrink cabs to the smallest possible size, and/or if they have long excursion, like an LF driver or subwoofer. Having the ports placed symetrically around the driver, or having 2 ports on opposite sides, keeps everything "lined up" under high excursion and makes the driver a smoother, more balanced piston.

 

[Woodstockz]

Ok, I just checked the interior dimensions and the internal volume is 1.35 cubic feet. If I close off two of the ports it bumps it up to roughly 1.5 cubic feet. What do you all think?

You still need ports whether it's a combo or a cab. Otherwise, it is sealed, which is not as loud.

 

[will33]

Ok, I just checked the interior dimensions and the internal volume is 1.35 cubic feet. If I close off two of the ports it bumps it up to roughly 1.5 cubic feet. What do you all think?

That's probably the biggest I'd go and even then, run it through a modeling program. The large box is going to let the driver respond lower, but it's also going to allow it to reach it's excursion potential with less power.

It's a tradeoff/compromise that must be made in any design....that being ultimate low frequency response vs. how much power it can handle down there. How big an amp you intend on using with it vs. the spl you need to achieve, etc.

 

[Cougmeister]

You still need ports whether it's a combo or a cab. Otherwise, it is sealed, which is not as loud.

I would still have two open ports, one on each side.

 

[Cougmeister]

That's probably the biggest I'd go and even then, run it through a modeling program. The large box is going to let the driver respond lower, but it's also going to allow it to reach it's excursion potential with less power.

It's a tradeoff/compromise that must be made in any design....that being ultimate low frequency response vs. how much power it can handle down there. How big an amp you intend on using with it vs. the spl you need to achieve, etc.

I could close off the ports at the back instead of just a couple inches into the port hole, keeping the volume the same. Another thing to consider is that I modeled it up with 1/2 inch board instead of 3/4, so the volume will be reduced slightly due to this, unless I find a good enough material (and cheap enough) to use 1/2 instead.

 

[will33]

I could close off the ports at the back instead of just a couple inches into the port hole, keeping the volume the same. Another thing to consider is that I modeled it up with 1/2 inch board instead of 3/4, so the volume will be reduced slightly due to this, unless I find a good enough material (and cheap enough) to use 1/2 instead.

1/2" Baltic Birch, sometimes labeled "Russian Birch". Super tough stuff. Comes in 5'x5' sheets. Look for this by searching cabinet lumber supply places or lumber wholesalers in your area. It's where professional home cabinet builders get their stuff.....not Home Depot. Price is quite affordable...probably a comparable price for that 5x5 sheet as it is for a 4x8 sheet of far inferior stuff at a big box store.

The key thing to look for is all equal thickness plys, the more the better. None of that stuff you see at HD that is a few layers of soft, uneven crap in the middle with a paper thin veneer on the outside.


Not to push you into a Genz "NeoX110" clone or anything, your design just reminded me of that design, so, this is a NeoX 112.

Notice those are divided into 3 port sections along each side. Make the corners the real ports. The middle sections can be faux ports and serve as additional baffle and sidewall bracing. You could manipulate how far back you block off those middle sections to achieve your desired cab volume.

With a "2 sections per side" design like yours, you could make the top left and bottom right the real ports...or vice versa, doesn't matter.

It is also easy to build using round tube ports. These could be made of cardboard mailing tubes, pvc pipe or whatever. Could use 4 of those placed evenly around the driver.

 

[Cougmeister]

I had never seen that cab before, even in all of my searching for ideas, hmm.....
As for round ports, I don't like them too much. Plus, the square ports give me the dimensions I want. I may pair this up with another combo that I have, and want it to have the same footprint so that it will stack properly, wherever i decide to put it (bottom or top). Here's what I was looking at material wise. the 3/4 isn't much more than the 1/2, so I would probably spring for that. I need to check my dimensions and see how much I need first I guess.

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[will33]

Don't use the MDF. Un-necessarily heavy, structurally weak. Good for home audio speakers or something that sit in one spot and never move as it is dense. It's also weak in the corner joints, will get beat up/loosened up moving it around to gigs and if it ever gets even the least bit damp, it's shot.

For a bass cab, it is better to use well braced plywood. At Lowes, what is called "Arauco" plywood is acceptable. It is 5 even thickness plys per 1/2". It is a little soft and tends to warp if you leave it laying around. Cut and build the box in one day and it'll be fine and stay square. Best to find Baltic Birch. If you have any kitchen cabinet builders in your town, they get theirs from somewhere. Get yours where they get theirs.

Other than that, I think you're on the right track here.

 

[Cougmeister]

Sounds good. Looks like I'm going to have to go lumber-hunting! Do you think any of the places would cut it to the size pieces I need? I don't have a table saw and I don't think my dad has one either.

 

[will33]

You can cut things nice and straight just using a handheld circular saw by using a piece of angle iron or a nice straight board as a guide to run the side of the saw against, but yes, many/most places will do cuts for you. Just make sure you have your sizes figured out right, inside/outside dimensions, etc. I have yet to see even the best lumber yard carry a real-life board stretcher.

 

[Cougmeister]

Lol, I figured out the sizes I would need for a 3/4. Still have to figure out for 1/2. Does Lowe's cut them? Also, what's the easiest way to cut the circular hole for the speaker baffle?

 

[will33]

Yes, Lowes can do cuts. How good they come out depends on the operator. Do know that most 1/2" ply is actually 12mm. That might throw you off by 1/8" or so by the end of the box....that's what PL Premium glue is for.


Some guys use a router and template or jig to make perfect circle speaker holes. I use a jigsaw and a steady hand. Works fine.


One last little "nudge" if you will. You can make a good box out of Aruaco. Done right, it won't be "inferior" or anything like that. But...it is IMO worth it to get your hands on some Baltic Birch if you can. If you could have both types of material in your hands at the same time, the difference will become obvious...the Baltic being stiffer, sturdier, harder, more solid, resistant to dings and dents, etc.....just "better". On a little 110, the baltic won't end up being more than a couple pounds heavier.


Whatever you choose, best of luck, post any questions....and of course, the result.

 

[Cougmeister]

Well I'm looking more and more at mdf. Seems to be the most solid thing I can get around here. Even the plywood at Lowe's looks really low grade. I plan on covering the cab or sealing it with some sort of coating, so moisture shouldn't be an issue. A lot of people have mentioned mdf in other threads and don't have issues with it.

 

[BogeyBass]

are you kidding me, mdf is an pain in the ### to cut and screw.

its heavy and poopy and stinks. and it will fall apart and split if you dont predrill the screw holes.

you already have a box made for this 10 why not just use it.
Dont mean to discourage your diy fun project. but just save some money and time.

Building a nice box for a nice driver is worth while, but rebuilding the same box for a practice amp speaker just seems like money wasted.

If you want to have fun why not get a pair of eminence speakers and build a worthwhile 210 or something. Your original design was pretty nice just expand it for 2 drivers. Possible read a few more threads on some 10" projects built here. And for just about the same cost could even build a 2x12 and get even further.

There was a chap on here living in mexico city i believe and wood choice was even less. He just used the best available plywood and built a really nice box for some neo 12's.

If you dont have the tools i would search your friends or relatives that have tools. Or possible find a local club or something. You could even place a strictly platonic add on craiglist looking for a wood working buddy. probably lots of jobless guys looking for an excuse to fire up the old table saw.

 

[DJ Bebop]

are you kidding me, mdf is an pain in the ### to cut and screw.

its heavy and poopy and stinks. and it will fall apart and split if you dont predrill the screw holes.

you already have a box made for this 10 why not just use it.
Dont mean to discourage your diy fun project. but just save some money and time.

Building a nice box for a nice driver is worth while, but rebuilding the same box for a practice amp speaker just seems like money wasted.

If you want to have fun why not get a pair of eminence speakers and build a worthwhile 210 or something. Your original design was pretty nice just expand it for 2 drivers. Possible read a few more threads on some 10" projects built here. And for just about the same cost could even build a 2x12 and get even further.

There was a chap on here living in mexico city i believe and wood choice was even less. He just used the best available plywood and built a really nice box for some neo 12's.

If you dont have the tools i would search your friends or relatives that have tools. Or possible find a local club or something. You could even place a strictly platonic add on craiglist looking for a wood working buddy. probably lots of jobless guys looking for an excuse to fire up the old table saw.

You may have a Tool Library in you town. It will allow you to check out and use tools for free just like a book library

 

[Cougmeister]

I did find out that my dad has a table saw, so that eliminates that issue.