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DIY Effect Makers (club?)

I'd be up for joining if you'll have me.

I used to do a lot of analogue electronics when I was in my teens, then I went off into the land of digital and software. I'm in the process of re-learning it all now, mainly through tinkering with effects and other music-related gear.
 
I'd be up for joining if you'll have me.

I used to do a lot of analogue electronics when I was in my teens, then I went off into the land of digital and software. I'm in the process of re-learning it all now, mainly through tinkering with effects and other music-related gear.

Sure, why not? how about you guys, moose23 and dune2k


If you give us a link to the schematic, the layout you used & better pics of both the solder & component side we might be able to help. :)

Here is the original schematic/layout, here, and below is my crappy paint layout of mine. followed somebody's advice on diystompboxes who stripped down to everything but the ic chip, then i read about what the ic chip can do and add the gain pot myself.
4ugfmw.png


the component side was an easy pic to get
155pgkk.jpg


but the solder side is really reflective, so i had a harder time..
2570nm0.jpg


as i said, it is 75% functional now, and if it cold never be better than this (White noise + funky sounding distortion) then i would box it up and still use it, but if i can get it to how it worked on the breadboard (no noise at all, just blocky synthy chunky goodness) then that would be wonderful

EDIT: I don't know. Now it's barely working, only glimpses of a sound, every once and a while.
 
Nice - I like!
Since this is a club - I have a question what voltage LED's (diodes) are typically used in a stomp? I tried to light one up with a 9vdc and smoked it. Sure was bright for a second.:cool:

Now I have to replace it. Circuit was wired like this:

DC input positive > 10K rest. > + LED > 3pdt > grd
 
it works! Turned out to be my DC jack, it works 100% with a 9v battery. i knew i shouldn't have gotten the plastic/metal DC jack connectors from Radioshack...

as far as as the LED goes, have you checked the wiring for the 3pdt? and are you sure you have the LED wired correctly? If it's the opposite, it could be pulling unresisted DC from elsewhere in the circuit, maybe?
 
As far as octaves go I like the square-wavey goodness. But is there some way to filter it out for a smoother waveform? Even cooler would be different waveforms like triangle and saw, any ways to do that?

Search DIYSB for "chopped OC-2". It's the one octave down circuit from the OC-2, with the second octave and all the JFET switching taken out so it's easier to build and can be true bypass. I have a PCB for it but it's got a smidge of bleed from the logic circuit into the audio path right now. This makes for a slight buzz in the background. It's not something you could perf without bad noise. At some point I'll get the PCB project together and I'll post it over there at DIYSB for all to enjoy.

As for other waveforms, that's getting into some advanced stuff. The only openly available schems for such a thing would be combining a pitch-to-voltage circuit with a synth VCO.
 
I've started building pedals this past summer. It's been pretty successful so far:

-a madbean clone of a OCD
-a madbean clone of the BJE Honey Bee (sounds pretty damn good on bass, fantastic on guitar!)
-an OLC flipster, which comes pretty damn close to the sound of my B-15, imo

I'm selling the OCD to one of the guitarists in my band, and the other wants me to build him another Honey Bee with a boost integrated (sounds wicked through his ampeg V2!!) and then a RAT distortion. I just ordered the parts for the RAT and several more PCBs: the RAT, ampeg Scrambler, and a Maestro Filter/Sample-Hold. Going to be ordering some more madbean PCBs since I'm so impressed with his selection:

-Way Huge aqua puss analog delay clone
-Woolly mammoth clone
-Catalinbread SFT (I own one and I want a clone for home since I keep mine at the practice space) and a Dirty Little Secret
-Another Honey Bee for my aforementioned guitarist!

I love this stuff, used to build tons of LEGO, mechano, wood stuff, Lincoln logs, capsela, and everything as a little kid. I found the pedals I made were super easy to put together and the soldering was by far the easiest part. I realize filters and delays are much more challenging, but I figure they'll be much more rewarding when I get them working. I don't think it'll be much more difficult because it would seem alot of people on the internet who can't get them working rush through them and don't read up all the info to be had on the project at hand. Obviously patience is key.

My goal is to eventually have an entire pedal board of DIY pedals (minus my volume pedal; ernie ball has that covered!). All my friends who are musicians are very positive that I'm building pedals, especially because i'm willing to build for others if they pay cost of parts.
 
it works! Turned out to be my DC jack, it works 100% with a 9v battery. i knew i shouldn't have gotten the plastic/metal DC jack connectors from Radioshack...

as far as as the LED goes, have you checked the wiring for the 3pdt? and are you sure you have the LED wired correctly? If it's the opposite, it could be pulling unresisted DC from elsewhere in the circuit, maybe?

Does it look like this? http://www.beavisaudio.com/techpages/PedalPower/PowerJack1.gif

If so, those jacks have a switch in them so you can switch between battery and adapter power.
 
Sure, why not? how about you guys, moose23 and dune2k

Sure, why not? :)
I actually forgot two builds in my earlier post. I modded a DS-1 for bass (and de-modded it afterwards & sold it at ebay...didn't like it that much) and a SFT. It really nails the B15 tone, which is cool although it's not for the music I'm going to play in the next couple of years. ;)

Re the LEDs:
1k should be fine, I use 910R or even less on mine (got 50 or so red LEDs of ebay and they are fine with a ~300R resistor, I think).
 
I'll take a number if it's all right with you

my first build, a fuzzface clone, the communist mani-fuzz-to

34j56iw.jpg


and my most recent, a GGG tuned big muff next to my barely recognizable Morley wah. I'm thinking of giving the muff a new paintjob.

291ic8g.jpg


next on the block will be a blender i think
 
Search DIYSB for "chopped OC-2". It's the one octave down circuit from the OC-2, with the second octave and all the JFET switching taken out so it's easier to build and can be true bypass.

As for other waveforms, that's getting into some advanced stuff. The only openly available schems for such a thing would be combining a pitch-to-voltage circuit with a synth VCO.

So, the chopped OC-2 on there is just octave down? Sweet...off to check it out. What's a VCO?

Does it look like this? http://www.beavisaudio.com/techpages/PedalPower/PowerJack1.gif

If so, those jacks have a switch in them so you can switch between battery and adapter power.


So, i should run the positive from the middle of the two, or the outside of the two? don't plan on putting a battery plug in, but it would be nice to know for the future if i ever make pedals for anyone else

quite a bit of interest, already broke 20!

brown-white-red (#19): moose23
red-black-red (#20): dune2k
red-brown-red (#21): UncleFluffy
red-red-red (#22): MetroBass
red-orange-red (#23): paul_s
red-yellow-red (#24): Gabeja15
 
Yeah, why not :) Add me to the list

The 'waves' are all electronic signals. It is your speakers that take an electronic signal and turn it into a sound wave as such. In electronics, an oscillator is just something that produces a repeating electronic signal - say a 'square wave' for example. A VCO has the frequency of that signal controlled by an applied voltage.
 
interesting, so could this VCO in a chip function in the same way as a chip like the LM386? Put a wire to the in and out, and the chip does it? It's just conditioning the sine wave signal's voltage to make the ic output the right square wave/triangle wave signal?

and, btw,your number is red-blue-red (#26).