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Dogal Hellborg strings 35 inch set on 34 inch bass? is it OK?

I was finally able to order a set of Dogal Hellborg strings and got a 35 inch set and am confused cause I ordered a simple 4 string set.
I rechecked information and there are 34 inch sets and I re watched the Bass the world youtube video review & demo and they showed
the 35 inch set package in the video, will there be no problem putting them on my Fender Precision bass? I did read the long thread about
the Hellborg strings here on Talk Bass but didn't see any one talk about this; any input would help very much.
Also I was thinking of ordering the flatwound set for my fretless 5 string but I've seen information advising not to use them on string thru body
basses, is that mis information and theres no problem using them?
 
You've seen warnings against thru-body use of Hellborg flats, specifically?
If so, can you post the link(s) here?
Sorry I don't remember where I saw it, I'm hoping that's wrong cause I've never seen anyone say so about flatwound strings in general.
The Hellborg flatwound strings are pretty expensive, so I just wanted conformation from anyone that's used them.
 
Sorry I don't remember where I saw it, I'm hoping that's wrong cause I've never seen anyone say so about flatwound strings in general.
The Hellborg flatwound strings are pretty expensive, so I just wanted conformation from anyone that's used them.
Alone among manufacturers, La Bella Strings recommend against stringing most of their flatwounds (except their Low Tension Flat product line) through the body, unless they're one of their -MUS or -TB sets which have a special, tapered leader section after the ball.

As for Dogal Hellborgs:
so far, I've found reports of successful (as in: not ending in breakage, if problematic in terms of fit) installation of flatwounds (if I'm not mistaken) through the body by TB members @FunkHead and @Diddywah,
talkbass.com/posts/28186630/
talkbass.com/posts/28401323/
and one of a thru-body installed, broken low B (not sure if roundwound or flat) from @karla684.
talkbass.com/posts/26613511/

What's the actual measurement of the E string from the ball end to the taper (where the full winding ends at the tuner end)?
It looks like it's about 30mm, with an inch converter it's 1.18110236
What Michael meant was:
measure the string in its near-entirety. Just exclude the last, thinner section where it goes around the tuning post.
The significant measurement is from
1) the point, covered in silk, where that transition (between the thin and the fat section) occurs
and 2) at the other end of the string (the ball end).

In order to vibrate properly, the string should maintain a uniform diameter from the bridge saddle all the way to the nut (or zero-fret);
additionally and ideally, if it has more than one winding (as bass strings tend to have, if larger than a G), the string should then taper (transition into a thinner diameter) right past the nut and before it starts winding onto the tuning post (especially low E and B strings can break, if their final section is not flexible enough to withstand sharp turns at the post).
 
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Generally, you are OK installing longer strings on a shorter bass. You just wrap it more times around the tuner post. Better longer than too short. The only exception is when the thick part of the string encroaches on the tuner post. This could cause problems, because that part of the string was meant to be straight. Also, the thickness may be too much to be contained by the tuner post.
 
The hellborgs are pretty flexible. I’ve put the regular length flats on a short scale bass (through bridge not through body) with no issues. I do get extra wraps around the posts but it seems ok. Don’t cut it below the silk though.

If it was the hellborg rounds I would not worry at all, but flats you do risk breaking them with extra post wraps. Mine are fine but it probably depends on the specific geometry of your bass and some luck so be careful.
 
One thing about hellborgs. They are low tension and I had to use much higher action on some basses to eliminate fret buzz, even though I can set the relief and heights well. They just move more than normal strings because the lower tension. Works on some of my basses, but not others.
 
Alone among manufacturers, La Bella Strings recommend against stringing most of their flatwounds (except their Low Tension Flat product line) through the body, unless they're one of their -MUS or -TB sets which have a special, tapered leader section after the ball.

As for Dogal Hellborgs:
so far, I've found reports of successful (as in: not ending in breakage, if problematic in terms of fit) installation of flatwounds (if I'm not mistaken) through the body by TB members @FunkHead and @Diddywah,
talkbass.com/posts/28186630/
talkbass.com/posts/28401323/
and one of a thru-body installed, broken low B (not sure if roundwound or flat) from @karla684.
talkbass.com/posts/26613511/


What Michael meant was:
measure the string in its near-entirety. Just exclude the last, thinner section where it goes around the tuning post.
The significant measurement is from
1) the point, covered in silk, where that transition (between the thin and the fat section) occurs
and 2) at the other end of the string (the ball end).

In order to vibrate properly, the string should maintain a uniform diameter from the bridge saddle all the way to the nut (or zero-fret);
additionally and ideally, if it has more than one winding (as bass strings tend to have, if larger than a G), the string should then taper (transition into a thinner diameter) right past the nut and before it starts winding onto the tuning post (especially low E and B strings can break, if their final section is not flexible enough to withstand sharp turns at the post).
Thank you very much for your replay, good to know the flat wounds seem to be okay on thru body basses, I checked the post on the broken low B string
and it's from 2022 and I'm pretty sure the flatwound strings weren't released till after 2023 so it's about the roundwounds.

I rechecked the way you explained and put the E string against the length of the E string on my bass as explained and it seems the silk exceeds the tuner
and the metal will reach the tuner itself, so as is it's just a little too long.
Could I fix this problem by using a thin metal tube under the bridge to extend the length of the ball end from the bridge itsself? I've seen people do so
for short scale basses using longer scale strings; would this work the same way?
I'd ask for the strings to be replaced with a 34 inch set normally, but I'm moving soon and it took over a month to get these strings so I'm not in the situation to do so now.
 
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Could I fix this problem by using a thin metal tube under the bridge to extend the length of the ball end from the bridge itself?
Here's what I've done with one of my basses with flats on it...

Fender 9050L on J.jpg
 
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In order to prevent binding around the tuners, or at least determine how long your spacer needs to be, as @michael_t and I have done, in a pinch, let us all repeat the mantra:

1) measure from the string anchor to the tuner side of the nut;
2) measure from the string anchor to the middle of the lowest string tuner post;
3) purchase a set of strings that the wound or speaking length is between these two measurements.

Yes, there will be those who post, "I've never had a string break...." Believe me, you will. It even happened to me recently when I tried to make a string work that was longer than indicated by the mantra.
 
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In order to prevent binding around the tuners, or at least determine how long your spacer needs to be, as @michael_t and I have done, in a pinch, let us all repeat the mantra:

1) measure from the string anchor to the tuner side of the nut;
2) measure from the string anchor to the middle of the lowest string tuner post;
3) purchase a set of strings that the wound or speaking length is between these two measurements.

Yes, there will be those who post, "I've never had a string break...." Believe me, you will. It even happened to me recently when I tried to make a string work that was longer than indicated by the mantra.
Thank you for the advice and the mantra; imported bass strings have gotten significantly more expensive in Japan the last few years and I definitely don't want to brake any strings, so I'll be careful to follow the steps.
 
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Finally was able to put the strings on my bass and the tube extension worked perfectly!
If anyone else has this problem, using metal tubes like these will resolve extra long stings
on a 34 inch scale bass, it works with the extra soft Hellborg round wound strings so
should pose no problem with normal tension strings.
I must say these strings are fantastic! The feel and sound from them are exceptional and are worth the price.

bass string extender tube.jpg


Sorry for the unbelievable delay, long story short I almost finished modding my bass, got a bad case of the flu and was sick for a over
a week, I was left with 3 weeks left to empty an entire house, was in a panic to finish packing stuff to move out before the dead line and
had zero time to finish the bass; and after I moved into the new house I could not find my expensive Hellborg strings, I finally found
them in a box of stuff that wasn't mine (LOL)
It "only" took an extra 9 months but was worth it.
Again thanks all for the help and advice.