Dpdt wiring question

[Brian O Neill]

Hi, I could do with some help, i`ve spent weeks trying to figure out how to wire a dpdt switch on/on/on for series/coil split/ parallel. It for a bass MM style humbucker I installed on a P Bass. The humbucker comes (according to the factory) wired in series. I have both pickups wired up (my first wiring job!) and its great. My problem is I can`t figure out the north +- negative and wiring colours. I have found a few drawings online, and I figured out what to do to get the dpdt switch installed into the "circut" but cannot figure what colours go where exactly. The site says this this


The chart shows the response of the pickup with both humbucking coils wired in series but as this is a 4 wire output harness pickup you can switch it from series to parallel or coil cut it down to a single coil mode which will enahance its treble responses.

The wiring harness colour codes go like this.
Black = start / negative of coil 1
White = finish / positive of coil 1
Red = start / negative of coil 2
Green = finish / positive of coil 2

The pickup comes pre-wired in series with the red and white wires, that link the two coil banks, ready joined. The pickup is also wax potted, resin sealed and supplied with mounting screws.

So, am I right in assuming that it is wired like a SD pickup but the "red" and "green" are reversed? Its all so confusing!
I have two volume pots, one for each pickup, and a master tone knob. Another problem I had was when I turned both pickups up full they cancelled each other out. so I reversed the green and black on the MM pickup and it was fine. (red and white soldered together from factory and masked off) Just now I switched them back and reversed the black and white wires on the P pickup (Sd quarterpounders) and they seem fine.

Can any body help? The company I bought the pickup from are useless, they won`t answer any emails.

 

[iiipopes]

No, you are not correct in assuming anything about the wiring. Here is a chart with the color coding different manufacturers use. There is no standard. Everybody does it differently. Yours may be closest, according to the chart, to what Peavey uses.

Invalid Link Removed

Now, once the color codes are sorted out, here are more wiring diagrams than you can shake a hot soldering iron at:

Invalid Link Removed

 

[Brian O Neill]

The diagram is as follows,

 

[Brian O Neill]

I just can`t relate the colors to the names,

The site says this

Black = start / negative of coil 1
White = finish / positive of coil 1
Red = start / negative of coil 2
Green = finish / positive of coil 2

This is how I interpret it

Black = start / negative of coil 1 = north -
White = finish / positive of coil 1 = north +
Red = start / negative of coil 2 = south -
Green = finish / positive of coil 2 = south + So if I use the diagram above, do I ignore the colors, and just go by "north south start and finish"

If so the black and white are right and I switch the red and green around?

 

[rigtec]

Hi Brian,

A while ago, I converted one of my favorite Jazz basses into a 'Series/parallel' "Switch hitter"! I didn't have a printed diagram so I schemed my own; see if you can follow my prints below:

Below is a standard jazzbass control cavity wiring schematic 'just for reference'. The new DPDT switch that I've installed will replace the stock tone pot (bottom knob), and is 'pushed down' for normal (parallel) operation, and 'lifted up' for series wiring.

Now see the switch below and notice two rows of three terminals; one row on the left, and one row on the right. Each row is a pole which is independent of the other. The center (middle) terminal is known as the Common terminal. The reason it's called that is because whatever is connected to it can be directed towards either the upper terminals, or the lower; the main contact arm pivots like a 'see-saw'. The two pick-ups on my bass are Vintage 60's stock by "Lindy Fralin". The wires, NEG and POS are Black & White... White is positive (HOT), black is negative (GND). Take a close look at the designations/labels written near each terminal:

Notice that 'only the black wire' on the bridge pick-up will be cut and moved to the switch, and 'only the white wire' on the neck pick-up will be cut and redirected to the switch. NOTE: The pick-ups that I was using were brand new, right out of the box so their wires were plenty long; you may need to extend your wires to reach down to the switch and through the cavity ports comfortably. Also notice that I have soldered a Jumper between the two poles at the bottom to join them; this is necessary for the scheme to work.

If you follow the wiring labels on the switch, your 'series/parallel' set-up will work like a charm as mine has for the last fifteen years, Take your time; best to you!

 

[line6man]

Make your life easier and don't waste time bothering with the color code. With an Ohm meter, you can identify the pairs of wires for the coils. From tapping on the poles, you can determine which pair corresponds to which coil. Then you just need to identify the polarity. Wire the coils up and if they are out of phase, reverse one pair.

 

[iiipopes]

Make your life easier and don't waste time bothering with the color code. With an Ohm meter, you can identify the pairs of wires for the coils. From tapping on the poles, you can determine which pair corresponds to which coil. Then you just need to identify the polarity. Wire the coils up and if they are out of phase, reverse one pair.

This is what I had to do to re-wire a DiMarzio UltraJazz to be in the correct phase and magnet polarity with the RIC HB-1 in my custom half-fanned P/J. In the end, the only thing that the colors helped me with was to keep track of which two wires to have soldered together to keep the pickup humbucking after I figured out which should be the hot & ground.

 

[Brian O Neill]

Thank You rigtec, you explained a lot, when you said (NEG and POS are Black & White... White is positive (HOT), black is negative (GND)
I know my color codes are probably different, but now Hopepully I can relate to what is negative /positive hot and ground. This is how thee pickup color code is explained on their site

The yellow wire is relpaced with green on my pickup , but they say its the same. I was hoping to do a series/ coil split/ parallel with an on/on/on dpdt switch.

 

[Brian O Neill]

Make your life easier and don't waste time bothering with the color code. With an Ohm meter, you can identify the pairs of wires for the coils. From tapping on the poles, you can determine which pair corresponds to which coil. Then you just need to identify the polarity. Wire the coils up and if they are out of phase, reverse one pair.

Thanks, I don`t have an ohm meter and i`m sure what kind to look for. I was also given this drawing, as I had issues running both pickups, with the volume up full , they cancelled each other out. so I found an answer online ( Line6man I believe it was one of your comments) where I switched the black and green wire on the MM pickup, at it was fine. Next I switched it back (black ground and green to the lug) ( with the red and white taped together and masked off) and reversed the wiring on the P pickup., which seem a better option so I can focus on the dpdt switch a bit more

 

[Brian O Neill]

Thanks s to everybody for your help! I know the answer is on this page somewhere!

 

[Brian O Neill]

I think I have it sorted. i got 3 diagrams from 3 sources. all say my pickups would be 180 out of phase but I can fix it by reversing the wires on the SD P pickups. I thought i`d share here in case it helps anybody else. I added a pic of the bass too. I cut the pickguard ( and filled the gap) so I don`t have to take off the strings every time, for wiring

 

[Brian O Neill]

heres the bass!