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Drill for "string through body" ?

I

Ingemar

Sep 12, 2000
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Sweden
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#1
I intend to drill for "string through body" stringing on my Clover XP15.5 bass.

The increased/steper string angle will make the strings to sit/to pusch on the end side of the bridge sadles.
Is there any disadvantages/problems with that?
(or is there any other problems/risks with such an "operation" that I haven't thought of?)


PICT0112.jpg
 
#2
There's no real problems from what I've seen on other string thru basses...But I hope you don't think it's going to really change your sound. According to most people on here, it doesn't add sustain like a lot of the claims say. There was a lot of science involved in talking about where sustain comes from, and that sustain comes only if you elongate the section of the string that actually vibrates...or something to that effect. I'm sure more people on here can explain it better than I can at the moment...I just got in from work and I'm a little fried.
 
#3
I can't see any advantage to making that bass a string through. First off, I don't see any advantage in sound. This is based on personal experience, not "science".

Second, your strings will then be resting partly on the saddles. You might get some difference in sound because of that but it might be worse. Why mess with a perfectly good bass?
 
#5
OK
Thanks

What worries me most is/was, as I said above, what the effect of the strings resting/sitting/pushing on the ends of the bridge sadles could do.

One reson why I thought of drilling for "string through" was to lenghten the total stringlenght.
Another was to try "thighten teh B string.

My Clover XP15.5 bass is now just 945mm (37.204") from ball end point to the center of the B str. string post/tuner and ca 25,4mm (1") from ballend to bridge sadle.

So there is some limits to my string choice (dont really like that long "tapered" end )
 
#6
Am I missing something? That bridge doesn't look like it's capable of being strung-through without removing the screws that hold it on... that would certainly be a bad thing.

If you go string-through, then the bridge would get changed. A bridge designed for string-through should account for that sharp angle and have clearance on the back of the saddles so they you don't have that sharp angle to contend with.

I have converted a bass to string-through, my Toby Deluxe 4... the bass wasn't expensive to start with and I have done a few things to it in the interest of self-education. I'll agree that it didn't make a change that was substantial. In your case, I would probably consider a different bridge that allowed for more string length past the saddle, but I wouldn't make any changes to hardware until I had been through several sets of strings in various gauges from different brands.
 
#8
saxofunk said:
Am I missing something? That bridge doesn't look like it's capable of being strung-through without removing the screws that hold it on... that would certainly be a bad thing.

If you go string-through, then the bridge would get changed. A bridge designed for string-through should account for that sharp angle and have clearance on the back of the saddles so they you don't have that sharp angle to contend with.
.
Click to expand...



As I can understand, drilling through the body wont affect the bridge itself at all. ?
There is allready holes right through the bridge under the string ball ends (think You can see the body wood, if You look closely at the pic) and thats where I intended to drill through.


This isn't any "collecters" bass ( It's a German built middle prised 1.489,– EUR about 1.650 USD I think..) quallity bass. I think the mod. wont affect the bass badly, if done correct.
You can still string through bridge, as orginal, anyway.
( well... not exactly any way, just through the end of the bridge ;-)

What conserns me the most, is wheter the fact that the strings will sit on/push the end of the bridge sadles, will be bad.
 
#9
Ingemar said:
As I can understand, drilling through the body wont affect the bridge itself at all. ?
There is allready holes right through the bridge under the string ball ends (think You can see the body wood, if You look closely at the pic) and thats where I intended to drill through.
Click to expand...
Aha, I didn't see the wood before.

I think the mod. wont affect the bass badly, if done correct.
Click to expand...
I agree, it won't have a bad effect, but I am not convinced it will have the positive effect you're after.

What conserns me the most, is wheter the fact that the strings will sit on/push the end of the bridge sadles, will be bad.
Click to expand...
It definitely looks like there would be contact. I don't think it would harm the bridge at all, it's just not an ideal string path.
 
#12
invader3k said:
It's not that it can't be done. I just don't see any real advantage to it.
Click to expand...

One advantage (IMO) with drilling for "string through" is, to lengthen the total stringlenght.
Another is, try to "thighten" the B string.

My Clover XP15.5 bass is now just 945mm (37.204") from ball end point to the center of the B str. string post/tuner and ca 25,4mm (1") from ballend to bridge sadle.

So there is some serious limits to my string choice (dont really like that long "tapered" end )
 
#13
If you lengthen the string, it's not going to give you a tighter B, since the string length from the nut to the bridge is the only area of length that counts. You could have a 6 foot long B string strung through the body of an upright and it isn't going to make it tighter if the scale is still 34". I wish I remembered where I read it, but there is absolutely no advantage to string through.
 
#14
Kronos said:
I wish I remembered where I read it, but there is absolutely no advantage to string through.
Click to expand...

FWIW, I have strung my Lakland both ways (it's capable of both). I cannot tell the difference - not in feel or sound. And there is at least one disadvantage to string-thru-body - no more quick-release bridge.
 
#15
Ingemar said:
One advantage (IMO) with drilling for "string through" is, to lengthen the total stringlenght.
Another is, try to "thighten" the B string.
Click to expand...

well, all you're going to accomplish with this is to change the length of strings you need to purchase ... and longer strings usually = larger cost. you will see no change in the tightness because there is no significant stretching taking place in this part of the string - stretching like you'd get at the headstock end between the nut and tuner key.

another thing you seem to be disturbed over is the proper functioning of the bridge. it looks like everything is designed properly, so the briged holding the string is working as it is designed to work. even the early Fender bridges from stamped metal stock hold the strings properly, and this bridge is significantly more robust than one of those.

if you can hear the difference between "bridge strung" and "thru body strung" in a blind test in an overal mix environment, then your hearing is even better than Eric Johnson's. sorry, but having having utilized this option on many basses the only benefit is to added extra cash into the builder's pocket for their labor time charges and for bass owners to brag that their is bigger than someone else's. I personally despise having to include this option in a build, as it is a total pain to drill all of the holes (4 drilling steps at each string location) on the initial rectangular body block - no way would I ever do it as a retrofit on a finished bass ... there is far too much risk for the little I would receive in compensation for my time.

and should you decide to foolishly go forward with adding this feature, know that you will need a sturdy drill press with a large clamping plate to do this cleanly. a small fraction of an inch/mm will be grossly visable whenever you look at the ferrules on the rear face. unless you can drill with CNC accuracy, that small misalignment is ugly, UGLY, UGLY!

all the best,

R
 
#16
Well said. You are exactly right. I've done it on a bass. I was well aware of the pitfals. I had a drill press and some skill. I got it right and it was a lot of work for absolutlely no sonic difference or change in feel.

Changing to a different bridge might make a small difference in sound. A different type of strings will sound different and feel different. A pickup change might be an improvement. But string through the body is a waste of time and money.
 
#18
Ingemar said:
I intend to drill for "string through body" stringing on my Clover XP15.5 bass.

The increased/steper string angle will make the strings to sit/to pusch on the end side of the bridge sadles.
Is there any disadvantages/problems with that?
(or is there any other problems/risks with such an "operation" that I haven't thought of?)


PICT0112.jpg
Click to expand...

Your b string looks like its tapering at the bridge. I don't think I've seen that before.
 

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