Dumb question... I tuned to GCGCF with Robert Trujillo Dunlop strings...

[PsychMD]

So I wanted to play this song in CGCF, and tuned accordingly.

I noticed that my bass was not only easier to play but sounded amazing. What I understand is that of course I reduced the tension on my strings, yes but want I want to know is:

How can I maintain this amazing feeling and tone in Standard tuning? There's something about this reduced string tension that I just absolutely love the playability and tone. The strings have more bounce, it's easier to slap, it's easier to fret notes!

How can I keep this feeling for standard tuning??? Using a Warwick Thumb Bolt-On 1999 with Robert Trujillo Dunlop strings. .045-.130 5-string Electric Bass Strings, Nickel Wound

I know the answer lies in the gauge, but how do I actually use the gauge calculator to solve this issue.

 

[Prodigus Filius]

Dunlop doesn't publish tension data, but given they are nickel plated rounds as per D'addario XL rounds, the tensions for them with a few guestimates due to some minor gauge variance is

GCGCF Tuning

G0/.130/20.22lbf
C1/.102/22.04lbf
G1/.085/35.95lbf
C2/.063/35.71lbf
F2/.045/33.78lbf

TT=147.70lbf
As you can see the 130 and 102 are very low similar tension in that tuning. The 85 63 and 45 have similar low tension to each other.
Now if it is the tension per string you like, and want the same tension in BEADG, than you'll need to drop the gauges
. You won't get a set with the specific gauges either, and would have to cobble together what is required with singles, either from a few dif sets or straight up singles

BEADG with similar tension

Gauges 40 55 75 80 105



B0/.105/21.38lbf
E1/.080/22.50lbf
A1/.075/35.40lbf
D2/.055/34.70lbf
G2/.040/32.40lbf

TT=146.38lbf

 

[PsychMD]

OMG this helps immensely you have no idea!!!!!!!

 

[PsychMD]

Dunlop doesn't publish tension data, but given they are nickel plated rounds as per D'addario XL rounds, the tensions for them with a few guestimates due to some minor gauge variance is

GCGCF Tuning

G0/.130/20.22lbf
C1/.102/22.04lbf
G1/.085/35.95lbf
C2/.063/35.71lbf
F2/.045/33.78lbf

TT=147.70lbf
As you can see the 130 and 102 are very low similar tension in that tuning. The 85 63 and 45 have similar low tension to each other.
Now if it is the tension per string you like, and want the same tension in BEADG, than you'll need to drop the gauges
. You won't get a set with the specific gauges either, and would have to cobble together what is required with singles, either from a few dif sets or straight up singles

BEADG with similar tension

Gauges 40 55 75 80 105



B0/.105/21.38lbf
E1/.080/22.50lbf
A1/.075/35.40lbf
D2/.055/34.70lbf
G2/.040/32.40lbf

TT=146.38lbf

THANK YOU SO FKING MUCH!!!!!!!!!

 

[GTHintz]

The idea of going with eadgc strings but tuned beadg would definitely get you close. You can further walk it in by trying a few different strings until you get the tone and feel where you want it.

 

[Jogobass]

How's your action and relief? It is entirely possible that lighter string tension made your neck more straight and the action lower, which could improve sound and playability in a way that is good for you

 

[PsychMD]

The idea of going with eadgc strings but tuned beadg would definitely get you close. You can further walk it in by trying a few different strings until you get the tone and feel where you want it.

HI, yes, EADGC will get me close enough to the feel I want! Instead of buying all those custom strings!!!!! I think i will love it!!!!

 

[PsychMD]

How's your action and relief? It is entirely possible that lighter string tension made your neck more straight and the action lower, which could improve sound and playability in a way that is good for you

I suspected this at first, and your right, there could have been a change in the action that did the trick!! I couldn't replicate the playability by changing the action, but I will keep my eye on any changes in action and make note of it.

 

[_Some Dude]

I have a bass that sounds great in Eb that doesn't sound as good in E for some reason I've never figured out. I don't think it's setup/action as the bass has been setup numerous times over the years.

OP - I'm curious how this experiment turns out.

 

[Saetia]

For drop G on my Modulus Q5 I’m using an equal tension .168 set on a 35” scale.

 

[PsychMD]

I have a bass that sounds great in Eb that doesn't sound as good in E for some reason I've never figured out. I don't think it's setup/action as the bass has been setup numerous times over the years.

OP - I'm curious how this experiment turns out.

interesting, I guess Eb is just that bass' sweet spot or something, but I will update this thread my dude.

 

[Root 5]

So I wanted to play this song in CGCF, and tuned accordingly.

I noticed that my bass was not only easier to play but sounded amazing. What I understand is that of course I reduced the tension on my strings, yes but want I want to know is:

How can I maintain this amazing feeling and tone in Standard tuning? There's something about this reduced string tension that I just absolutely love the playability and tone. The strings have more bounce, it's easier to slap, it's easier to fret notes!

How can I keep this feeling for standard tuning??? Using a Warwick Thumb Bolt-On 1999 with Robert Trujillo Dunlop strings. .045-.130 5-string Electric Bass Strings, Nickel Wound

I know the answer lies in the gauge, but how do I actually use the gauge calculator to solve this issue.

I have an instrument strung with .028” to .075” tuned to A440 and it’s great.

 

[GTHintz]

I have a bass that sounds great in Eb that doesn't sound as good in E for some reason I've never figured out. I don't think it's setup/action as the bass has been setup numerous times over the years.

OP - I'm curious how this experiment turns out.

To me that sounds like you might like light gauge strings too. I went through every gauge set and tons of brands and learned that heavier gauge doesn’t sound as good especially when I typically play e standard tuning. I get the best tone and feel from light or medium. No thicker than .130 105. B&e string. My preference is usually 125 100 depending on which exact bass and string. My 35” scale basses I tend to go with more flexible strings and slightly stiffer on 34”. Something else to consider is that if you play DR hi beams or fat beams they have a lower than average stiffness due to the round core design. I like them. Both last a long time and the way they respond to your fingers is unique. If you haven’t tried them they might be the answer for you.

 

[_Some Dude]

To me that sounds like you might like light gauge strings too. I went through every gauge set and tons of brands and learned that heavier gauge doesn’t sound as good especially when I typically play e standard tuning. I get the best tone and feel from light or medium. No thicker than .130 105. B&e string. My preference is usually 125 100 depending on which exact bass and string. My 35” scale basses I tend to go with more flexible strings and slightly stiffer on 34”. Something else to consider is that if you play DR hi beams or fat beams they have a lower than average stiffness due to the round core design. I like them. Both last a long time and the way they respond to your fingers is unique. If you haven’t tried them they might be the answer for you.

I'm open to the idea, and have thought about it periodically.

I use the same strings for everything, which is 105-45, or 130-45 if it's a 5 string... E, D, C#, Drop C (as well as A#, G and F# on a 5). A lot of players would complain about tension, but I think thinner strings sound better.

 

[Saetia]

I'm open to the idea, and have thought about it periodically.

I use the same strings for everything, which is 105-45, or 130-45 if it's a 5 string... E, D, C#, Drop C (as well as A#, G and F# on a 5). A lot of players would complain about tension, but I think thinner strings sound better.

To a point you are absolutely correct and is probably more to do with playing style and what is needed. The one thing I absolutely cannot stand and it ruins it for me for other bands is tension so low that the note sags out of tune upon attack. I see and feel color shifts though and “out of tune” messes up that picture. I keep a bass with lower tension in lower tuning for a specific tonal goal for that instrument and its application… but honestly need a mid tension on those lower lower tunings so I can play technically. None of the music I play tuned that low can have sag and needs to have a bunch for pick return and complex lines.

Fun how everyone has different goals and requirements.

.130 in F# is 16 to 19 lbs and my G0 is 33lbs (so are all my other strings on that bass).

There is a trade off. But again that bass is designed for something different (a modulus in G with a .168 is like an angry piano, but articulate like a piano). So my end is “grain of salt” worthy.

I’d venture that I’d probably run closer to 27lbs on any other bass though.

 

[Dincrest]

Gauges and tension numbers only tell part of the story. String construction plays a part too.

Round core strings like DR Hi-Beams will feel far more flexible under the fingers whereas hex-core strings like DR Lo-Riders will feel stiffer. And then there's DR DDTs which have a reinforced hex core for added stiffness; DDT stands for "drop down tuning" since DR makes those strings for that purpose.

But even then... a 45-105 set of D'Addario XLs has lower tension numbers and a more pliable feel than 45-105 GHS Boomers, despite both being NPS rounds. I think it's because GHS uses a larger diameter core.

And then you have strings like SIT Foundations and Dunlop SuperBrights which have super thin hex cores, given them a round core level of flexibility/sponginess under the fingers.

In this video Derek Boyer of Suffocation talks about playing a lighter gauge string than you would expect from a death metal player in a band that tunes as low as they do. But he says he prefers the lighter gauge because he doesn't have to mash and clobber the strings to get a big sound.

 

[_Some Dude]

To a point you are absolutely correct and is probably more to do with playing style and what is needed. The one thing I absolutely cannot stand and it ruins it for me for other bands is tension so low that the note sags out of tune upon attack. I see and feel color shifts though and “out of tune” messes up that picture. I keep a bass with lower tension in lower tuning for a specific tonal goal for that instrument and its application… but honestly need a mid tension on those lower lower tunings so I can play technically. None of the music I play tuned that low can have sag and needs to have a bunch for pick return and complex lines.

Fun how everyone has different goals and requirements.

.130 in F# is 16 to 19 lbs and my G0 is 33lbs (so are all my other strings on that bass).

There is a trade off. But again that bass is designed for something different (a modulus in G with a .168 is like an angry piano, but articulate like a piano). So my end is “grain of salt” worthy.

I’d venture that I’d probably run closer to 27lbs on any other bass though.

I'm only countering for the conversation, not because I disagree. None of these approaches are right or wrong, just different.

With lighter gauges, some of pulling a note out of tune can be countered by playing with a lighter touch.

Additionally, if I'm hammering the strings the fretboard becomes the limiter. If I'm playing aggressive fingerstyle and driving the strings down into the frets, they can only deflect as far as the fretboard. At that point tension becomes somewhat irrelevant.

With a pick... I'm also a guitar player, so having a more nuanced touch on the strings comes second nature to me.

 

[Saetia]

I'm only countering for the conversation, not because I disagree. None of these approaches are right or wrong, just different.

With lighter gauges, some of pulling a note out of tune can be countered by playing with a lighter touch.

Additionally, if I'm hammering the strings the fretboard becomes the limiter. If I'm playing aggressive fingerstyle and driving the strings down into the frets, they can only deflect as far as the fretboard. At that point tension becomes somewhat irrelevant.

With a pick... I'm also a guitar player, so having a more nuanced touch on the strings comes second nature to me.

I totally hear you, and dynamics are the name of the game always.

I was only speaking from my pov as always. I enjoy that people like different things. At sub 20lbs I’m pretty sure that it’s hard to play light enough to not push that initial warble. I know I’m an outlier but I literally see colors in my head that gross me out when things are out of tune.

I love doom music but I have a hard time with those down tuned Les Paul types… warble warble out of tune in tune out of tune etc….

I just know for me at sub 20lbs tension I couldn’t play some of the complex lines, have the dynamics or turn up to the tempo I need to pull off for that project at that tuning. I rely on my EQ and the sweet spot location on my Q5 and the articulate punchy response of the grahite neck.

Same bass tuned to B I use a .120 set…. lol so again I’ll say for the set up and purpose specifically for my Subcontra bass set up Modulus. I also have a P bass that I love a .120 set for B as well and that’s a 34” scale.

I walk both sides of the line lol

I also have a JB2 set up in A with an equal tension .142 set lol…

All over the place.

I want to try a .95 standard flats set on a bass as well….

For me it’s about context and comfort for the project and playing style. I tend to play many different types and my setups and gauge choices reflect it.

One thing I can’t stand is being out of tune. As long as it’s relative to the rest of the band and everyone is intonated I could care less. I love melodic music and dissonant music but that all has a flowing river of color so to speak. I just can’t do music that sags too much lol.

 

[GTHintz]

I'm only countering for the conversation, not because I disagree. None of these approaches are right or wrong, just different.

With lighter gauges, some of pulling a note out of tune can be countered by playing with a lighter touch.

Additionally, if I'm hammering the strings the fretboard becomes the limiter. If I'm playing aggressive fingerstyle and driving the strings down into the frets, they can only deflect as far as the fretboard. At that point tension becomes somewhat irrelevant.

With a pick... I'm also a guitar player, so having a more nuanced touch on the strings comes second nature to me.

That’s the beauty of it. We all have a different style and it’s all good. No wrong answers honestly. I’m more aggressive than many I’d say but I still like lighter strings especially for how much easier it is to get growly definition on my notes when I’m digging in. That’s why it’s all steel rounds for me and I like the aggression I can get and when I back off I like the piano like clarity and articulation. It’s made me more versatile vs the mindset of having strings that only go warm and wooly and thumpy. Your dynamics get lost and I’ve always hated that.

 

[hasbeen]

Dunlop doesn't publish tension data, but given they are nickel plated rounds as per D'addario XL rounds, the tensions for them with a few guestimates due to some minor gauge variance is

GCGCF Tuning

G0/.130/20.22lbf
C1/.102/22.04lbf
G1/.085/35.95lbf
C2/.063/35.71lbf
F2/.045/33.78lbf

TT=147.70lbf
As you can see the 130 and 102 are very low similar tension in that tuning. The 85 63 and 45 have similar low tension to each other.
Now if it is the tension per string you like, and want the same tension in BEADG, than you'll need to drop the gauges
. You won't get a set with the specific gauges either, and would have to cobble together what is required with singles, either from a few dif sets or straight up singles

BEADG with similar tension

Gauges 40 55 75 80 105



B0/.105/21.38lbf
E1/.080/22.50lbf
A1/.075/35.40lbf
D2/.055/34.70lbf
G2/.040/32.40lbf

TT=146.38lbf

Comparing one brand's "nickel plated" to another brand's doesn't make for a tension comparison. Tension is an equation of strings mass, scale length and pitch to which it's tuned. It doesn't matter if the string is "nickel", "steel" etc.