E string too thick to fit through hole in bridge.

[Dirk Diggler]

Harbor freight, t-handle reamer. The easiest safest way to enlarge a hole in wood.
The big cost of $2.75 plus tax.
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Take your time, it will work out great. Also if it seems like the wraps are going to go across the bridge, don't ream it out all the way.

Best of luck,
Dirk

 

[Fingerer]

Maybe spitting on it will help.

 

[Coolhandjjl]

Not only do you want solely the ball end to take the load, it needs to be free to spin loosely to prevent string twists as it's tightened.

 

[Deleted member 271037]

It seems if anymore of the string goes through the hole, then the tapered, winding near the ball will be sitting on the saddle?

This.

It definitely looks like the sliked part would have gone beyond the bridge if that string had been in it's "correct" position.

In fact, in this case I might even have considered installing some kind of small wooden cylinder of a suitable length/shape onto the string between the ball end and the body to AVOID the string suddenly letting go and slip into it's "correct" position.

But then again, it's difficult to know for certain just by looking at a pic.

 

[Coolhandjjl]

This.

It definitely looks like the sliked part would have gone beyond the bridge if that string had been in it's "correct" position.

In fact, in this case I might even have considered installing some kind of small wooden cylinder of a suitable length/shape onto the string between the ball end and the body to AVOID the string suddenly letting go and slip into it's "correct" position.

But then again, it's difficult to know for certain just by looking at a pic.

The Gibson bridge like on the Jack Casady bass has that happen with silk-end strings. My TI Flats on that bass have the silks on the saddle, sounds fine. (There is a guy who makes a mod for that specific bridge that keeps the ball ends a bit further back and solves that problem for those who are concerned.)

For the tapewonds, I wouldn't be concerned. If you are, carefully cut & peel the silk back at the saddle. But again, for those strings, I'd leave the silk alone and not worry that it may be sitting across the saddle.

 

[maxschrek]

Time buy a tapered round file, if you don't already have one.

 

[iiipopes]

I have had several basses over the years where to get the intonation set properly, the E string saddle is so far back that some silk goes over the saddle. I have never had an issue with tone or sustain where that has happened.

 

[Bonafide]

1. Its a great question for a new player.
2. It's super useful to know how to maintain the basics of your instruments and to keep it free from damage.
3. Don't overthink it. It's a low-budget, very non precise bridge with low QC and tolerances all over the map. I echo others sentiment. Its an easy fix by gently and 'slightly' widening the hole. That is the appropriate fix. There is very low risk here if you just widen it enough to pull the sting through. You could... use some type of lubricant as is... but the challenge and the potential for marring the bass or damaging the bridge will happen when someone tries to remove that string after it has been tension pulled through with any force. Best of luck either way and enjoy the new strings!

 

[fakeneckplate'65]

The Gibson bridge like on the Jack Casady bass has that happen with silk-end strings. My TI Flats on that bass have the silks on the saddle, sounds fine. (There is a guy who makes a mod for that specific bridge that keeps the ball ends a bit further back and solves that problem for those who are concerned.)

For the tapewonds, I wouldn't be concerned. If you are, carefully cut & peel the silk back at the saddle. But again, for those strings, I'd leave the silk alone and not worry that it may be sitting across the saddle.

It's called a Mod-Bar & it's made here in Columbus, OH.

GIBSON® EPIPHONE® BASS BRIDGE 3-POINT (MOD-BAR!) | eBay

 

[SBassman]

Maybe spitting on it will help.

While this was probably a joke it's actually not a bad idea to put something on the end of the string.

I think my personal solution to this would be Light, slow, careful reaming - just a few strokes - along with some sort of lube on the end of that string - either a graphite type lube, or maybe even a coupla squirts of WD40.

 

[Deleted member 271037]

The Gibson bridge like on the Jack Casady bass has that happen with silk-end strings. My TI Flats on that bass have the silks on the saddle, sounds fine. (There is a guy who makes a mod for that specific bridge that keeps the ball ends a bit further back and solves that problem for those who are concerned.)

For the tapewonds, I wouldn't be concerned. If you are, carefully cut & peel the silk back at the saddle. But again, for those strings, I'd leave the silk alone and not worry that it may be sitting across the saddle.

Yeah, I've got one of those mod bars on my T-bird. Works great for all basses with the Gibson 3-point bridge. The silks on Roto 66 steels always ended up FAR ahead of the bridge (Roto 66 E-string needs to have the saddles a bit further back than most strings to be properly intonated so it was particularly bad with those strings).

Maybe it won't matter much if it's just the SILK but whenever a tapered part of the string or that messy, knurly bit at the end goes past the bridge it a no-go area for me.

The exception would be strings that are SUPPOSED to be tapered over the bridge of course.

 

[Kukulkan61]

Spit on it

 

[dbsfgyd1]

Help!! (j/k)

I just got a set of D'Addario nylon tapewounds for my acoustic Fender BG29. All the strings went in smoothly but I can't seem to get the E string all the way through the bridge hole.

What do you fellas recommend? View attachment 3888644

I feel your pain. I have the same issue with the B string on my Warwick Corvette STD. The tailpiece is a slot, not a hole, and it’s made of metal. I have to by tapered strings. It sucks because with four of the thicker strings, the taper runs past the bridge, I can buy a single B string for $10 plus shipping.

Edit: Just heard back from Warwick. They suggested filing it down until the B string fits in side the slot. Kudos for them getting back to me within an hour, but for company that makes a world class bass, their solution is rather 3rd world.

 

[yodedude2]

In fact, in this case I might even have considered installing some kind of small wooden cylinder of a suitable length/shape onto the string between the ball end and the body to AVOID the string suddenly letting go and slip into it's "correct" position.....

i really like this idea. seconded.

i expect a small, short, cylindrical brass bushing would work as well, if one could live with the cosmetics.

 

[slone]

I had the same issue with my Breedlove and tapewounds. I ended up removing the silk and was still just a hair too tight for my liking, so I did use the next size drill bit and a hand drill (pin vice or reamer handle) to enlarge the hole very slightly. I recommend using a new/ sharp drill bit and a hand drill instead of power tools so you can go slow and not have as great of a risk of the bit catching and causing damage to the bridge.

 

[Pazelaya93]

This.

It definitely looks like the sliked part would have gone beyond the bridge if that string had been in it's "correct" position.

In fact, in this case I might even have considered installing some kind of small wooden cylinder of a suitable length/shape onto the string between the ball end and the body to AVOID the string suddenly letting go and slip into it's "correct" position.

But then again, it's difficult to know for certain just by looking at a pic.

Agreed. A spacer of sorts.

 

[grinx]

is the hole burrowed out in a certain pattern and the end will only go in 1 way?
hard to tell from photo....

 

[dkelley]

You are just going to have to get a new bass to fit the string.

Why wasn't this just the obvious answer? You always buy a new bass to fit your strings.

 

[sonojono]

I’ll utter the words my job always tells me on the daily:

“Make it Fit”

- Amazon Supervisors

 

[Fingerer]

While this was probably a joke it's actually not a bad idea to put something on the end of the string.

I think my personal solution to this would be Light, slow, careful reaming - just a few strokes - along with some sort of lube on the end of that string - either a graphite type lube, or maybe even a coupla squirts of WD40.

Yeah, that's exactly what I meant ... with a nod to the joke. I had so many ways of making lube suggestions, I still have a headache.