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Double Bass Edge repair advice

eh_train

Supporting Member
Commercial User
Jan 12, 2004
1,493
1,270
Toronto
www.standupguybasses.com
Disclosures
Owner, Stand Up Guy Basses (Repair/Sell/Buy upright basses)
I have an Epiphone B4 that is missing * a lot * of edge veneer. I usually do these repairs using wood veneer, but, let's face it, it's fussy, time-consuming work.

So..., I have a question about using some form of putty for edge repairs. Specifically, something that would be adequate (ie., strong enough) for edge repairs on a ply bass.

The other thing I should mention is that this is a sunburst bass, so the outer edges are dark (ie., forgiving in terms of hiding what's underneath).

If there's an adequate fix in a tube, I'd love to know.

Thoughts?

Cheers,

Paul (Eh_train)
 
Don't make me slap you.

If the bass was some piece of junk, I'd say go ahead, but there were only something like 3,000 Epiphone basses made IIRC and not all of them survived. Most of the ones that did never leave MollyKay's basement.

You'll probably be fine using thin wood veneer from a craft store and hide glue, which I used on a '51 Kay with major edge problems. It's fiddly work, but what part of bass repair isn't? Why not ask for Lonnie's opinion? He's saved more than a few Epis.

No putty. It'll only be another mess to clean up when you get mad at the result and tear it apart to do over.
 
I'm still interested in hearing other's actual experiences with these products. Particularly as I was assured - by a professional bass luthier of considerable renown - that "we definitely use putty in our shop"....
 
We definitely don't use putty in my shop!

Whaddya think Willie Nelson or Bill Monroe would tell you about having some cosmetic wear spots on your instrument?????? Does it somehow play worse; does it hurt the sound of the bass?

There is an old Kay that hangs out at Merlefest every year that has all the outside layers of ply worn off on the entire bass. It has seen countless decades of constant touring and riding on the roof of old busses. It sounds so good that the whole "A team" of players are constantly fighting for it.

Fix the plys right by using real wood and hot hide glue, or just let it go and don't do anything.

j.
www.kaybassrepair.com
 
Different strokes for different folks…that’s what makes the forum so great. :) To answer eh_train question…we see lots of chipped edges on Epi’s and Kay Swingmasters because of the real inlaid purfling weakens the edge.

Lonnie has developed a great technique that makes the edges look cosmetically great with out removing any original wood. His technique comes from years as an autobody repairman in the 1970’s and 1980’s. He does use a real wood filler.

I’ll let the slideshows speak for themselves. Our basses look clean and repaired without looking too new. We try not to remove the character from the bass but rather stop the edge chipping so it does not catch on the gig bag. :D

http://s318.photobucket.com/user/bassmonkey2/slideshow/1941 Epi B-5 Ruben

http://s318.photobucket.com/user/bassmonkey2/slideshow/1942 Kay S-9

http://s318.photobucket.com/user/bassmonkey2/slideshow/Matt Malley - 1948 Epiphone B-4

http://s318.photobucket.com/user/bassmonkey2/slideshow/1946 Epiphone B-5 No 811 Luther

http://s318.photobucket.com/user/bassmonkey2/slideshow/1950 American Standard
 
Thanks, all, for offering opinions!

In my OP I said that I usually do these repairs using wood veneer. I should have said that I've * only * ever done them using wood patches. The trouble is, it's largely a cosmetic repair and it takes up tons of time.

Note, also, that even with nicely fitted patches you have to try and match the finish, so there's still no guarantee it'll be an invisible job!

Molly, your last example is a good one for showing a substantial repair using filler. You do mention, though, that your husband has a lot of experience at auto body work. That's not me. I can always learn, but I'm not sure I want to start experimenting on this particular bass!

I also received a pm, from 360guy, with some helpful thoughts. Time to reflect, and I'll get back again once some progress has been made.


CHeers,

Paul
 
Options and opinion are what makes the forum so great. And yes, my husband has years of autobody, wood working, building furniture and metal fabricating in his wheelhouse to draw upon.

The real wood filler does a nice job with out removing any original wood. It smoothes in and blend nicely. He does not sand any old wood away. It’s more about blending the new wood with the old wood. The filler marries nicely with the chips and splinters. This is not plastic putty; this is real wood filler that comes from a high end woodworker’s store.

The oldest repair he has done is now eight years old and has not changed one bit. It is very stable. We respect all opinion and techniques; diversity is what makes the world go around. Good luck on whatever method works best for you!
 
Help!
Desperately trying to fix my recent gouge in the top of my American Standard Bass.
What brand wood filler do you recommend?
Thanks

I think what MollyKay is describing is "Bondo", a polyester resin used mainly for autobody repair. It is tricky to use and very toxic. DO NOT USE IT ON YOUR BASS UNLESS YOU HAVE ALREADY RESTORED A VINTAGE MG!!!

The water-based wood fillers from the hardware store will look like hell and crumble to dust in a year anyway when put on a bass top. Don't do it. Just live with the gouge. No one will suffer:hyper:
 
LOL…it’s not bondo and yes he has restored a vintage MG (Tahiti blue if I remember correctly) and many other classic cars including this 1967 Ford Mustang that is his first car he has owned for 39 years…and the bondo work on it looks fabulous too! :cool:

http://thebassmonkeyworkshop.blogspot.com/2012/07/coming-full-circle.html

The wood filler brand name is Famowood. This is a good quality, real wood filler that does not turn to dust. As stated earlier, the oldest bass edge repair is now 8 years old and is holding up terrific. The original poster was seeking something other then tedious veneer patching for chipped edge repairs, that is why I offered to share what we do.

Again different strokes for different folks…this works well us. :D
 

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Hi all,

Just saw these last few posts (which I'll refer to when repairing my car!).

Back on topic, Molly, thanks for the actual name of the product. They have web info here: [Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

I am at the looking-at-the-project-and-thinking stage, but will decide what to do in the near future.

Thanks all,

Paul