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Double Bass Endpin stuck

F

frankplank

Mar 15, 2008
3
0
#1
Hey Guys,

My endpin has always been pretty difficult to pull out of my bass, but yesterday it was ridiculous. I hadn't played in about a month, and it was sitting in my closet the entire time. I pulled it out, and the thing wouldn't budge at all. I worked on pulling it out for about an hour and I finally got it, although I ripped off the rubber tip and scratched the ring near the tip as I was gripping this a pair of pliers. Twice the whole endpin housing started to pop out of the bottom of the bass! I used a rubber mallet to knock it back into place, but that made me pretty nervous.

Could I just replace the rod with a thinner version? I'd say the current one is about 3/8 " in diameter. If so, where can I get one?

Maybe I can sand the inside cork somehow to loosen the grip it has on pin?

What recommendations do you have, other than going to a luthier, as I'd like to fix it myself if it's not too complicated.

Thanks!!!!!!!
 
#2
Your profile does not say where you live, but I was wondering whether humidity change might be thickening that cork liner. I would guess that, if it is even possible to completely remove the pin, it might also be appropriate to glue sandpaper on a piece of 1/4" dowel, and sand the cork, as you say. Or maybe use a round, thin file...same idea.

I've never had something like that happen...I did have the dubious joy of removing an original Kay endpin socket a week or so ago: pipe-wrench and all, that was a difficult job. But it came out, did no damage to the bass, and the bass now sports a brand-new ebony socket and 13" pin.
 
#4
I've had problems with my school's plywood Christopher's endpin for the past year, though nothing like you've experienced. The endpin socket made of some non-ebony wood that has been ebonized.

What I've noticed was that the endpin worked okay, but not great during the summer. I could at least pull it out by hand. But whenever the bass was brought out of a climate controlled area during the winter (read: brought to a cold place), it was stuck with no hope of pulling it out by hand. Only pliers work in this situation. So change in temperature may have something to do with a stuck endpin, as I suspect the wood socket is shrinking faster than the metal endpin is.

As for using WD-40? Actually, I like to play with my bass in non-notched endpin positions (don't know why). So I've always been wary of using any sort of lubricant.
 
#6
Hi Guys,

Just a follow-up to my situation, in case anyone is interested. I was able to sand my endpin (the part that holds the pin) down and now it works fine. Basically, I just went to hardware store and bought some medium grade sandpaper and a couple different diameters of dowel rods. I glued the sandpaper around the dowel rods (I think the best way to do this is to glue one end and let it dry and then you can wrap the sandpaper around the dowel much tighter, and glue the other end), attached the rod to my drill gun, and let loose.

It seems to have worked well.

Some other advice if you ever find yourself in this situation: sand slowly. You don't want to take too much or the thing won't work right. I probably took more out than I needed to it, but it hasn't caused any problems yet, so it doesn't bother me.

Thanks again to everybody who pointed me in this direction.
 
#7
I realize this is an old thread, but I wanted to thank you for posting this. I bought a new Chan base and the endpin has been tight since the day I got it. I used my callipers to determine my endpin was 12 mm. I went to the hardware store and bought 2 dowels (1/2" and 3/8" - slightly smaller than 12mm) and some 220 grit sandpaper. I didn't glue it on, I just turned in the same direction that I had wrapped the sandpaper. I didn't bother with a drill either, I just turned by hand and it took less than 5 min. Now my endpin slides in and out easily for the first time! A quick vacuum of the sawdust generated and I was done.

Thanks
Natasha

frankplank said:
Hi Guys,

Just a follow-up to my situation, in case anyone is interested. I was able to sand my endpin (the part that holds the pin) down and now it works fine. Basically, I just went to hardware store and bought some medium grade sandpaper and a couple different diameters of dowel rods. I glued the sandpaper around the dowel rods (I think the best way to do this is to glue one end and let it dry and then you can wrap the sandpaper around the dowel much tighter, and glue the other end), attached the rod to my drill gun, and let loose.

It seems to have worked well.

Some other advice if you ever find yourself in this situation: sand slowly. You don't want to take too much or the thing won't work right. I probably took more out than I needed to it, but it hasn't caused any problems yet, so it doesn't bother me.

Thanks again to everybody who pointed me in this direction.
Click to expand...
 
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#9
My mistake - it's a Shen bass. I had only ever heard it spoken and wrote it incorrectly. As for the endpin gauge, my callipers are very cheap and that was the closest size. I wanted dowels that were slightly smaller than the hole I was trying to ream out to allow for the thickness of the sandpaper.

robobass said:
Chan Bass? Where are you? I don't find "Chan Bass" on Google. Also 12mm is unusual for an endpin.
Click to expand...
 
#10
This has nothing to do with being stuck, but where do I go to get a ring for the thumb screw cut into my steel end pin? I need one in between two existing cuts. It's a similar situation as needing a hole between two existing holes in a leather belt. I hesitate using a rat tail file myself; it'll work but it will look sloppy as hell.
 
#11
gerry grable said:
This has nothing to do with being stuck, but where do I go to get a ring for the thumb screw cut into my steel end pin? I need one in between two existing cuts. It's a similar situation as needing a hole between two existing holes in a leather belt. I hesitate using a rat tail file myself; it'll work but it will look sloppy as hell.
Click to expand...

Find a grinder with an abrasive wheel, and rotate the shaft against the corner of the wheel. The detent doesn’t need to be very deep. As to looks, nobody will notice, as it will be hidden at the thumb screw location.
 
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#12
A (1/4"?) rat tail file will do an OK job, if you are careful, and have a bench-vise to hold the endpin while you file a detent.
If you have access to a Dremel Tool, they sell a small spherical grinding bit that is a small abrasive ball, (about 3/8" diameter) which does a nice job.
Note: you don't need to make a complete 360 degree detent, just a "dimple" placed exactly where you need it.
See below - this is the Dremel method.
IMG_3452.JPG
 
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#14
I've rubbed Ivory soap on the endpin to lube it, works for a bit. But the "fix" came from letting another bass player do a set on my instrument. I think he was trying to adjust it to his height and manhandled it enough to increase the size of the hole with shear force. Luckily nothing broke in the process, lol. Wasn't sure whether to thank him or yell at him.
 

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