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EZ-Lok Threaded Steel Inserts

Dang, shipping is ridiculous. What I'm ordering would only cost $0.32 but shipping would be over $40.

I'm wondering if Ace or Home depot can special order some of these...

My local Ace has them, as does the HD, I believe, but I'm unsure if they carry 8-32. Again, I prefer 1/4-20, due to the tremendous torque you can apply.

I went out to the shop--I can send you 4 each, 10-32 & 1/4-20, PM me your snailmail.
 

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I use the ezlok 303-3 and 10-24 SS machine screws.

Plenty beefy.

With these, one can drill the correct sized mounting hole and use a tap to cut threads in the wood before installing the insert.
This makes for a much more drama free installation than using the insert to cut the threads, IME.

Maple can be hard and I've ruined a couple of inserts by trying to force them in without tapping first.

Fortunately, no necks. :cool:

I've been unable to find a tap with the right thread pitch for the ones designed for woodworking,
but the metal ones like the 303-3 have external threads (3/8-16) that are common enough to find taps at Ace.
 
I turn the tap manually and carefully to insert it - the word tap does not imply that you "tap" on it, although I can see how one might interpret it that way. When turning, you have to feel the tap bite into the material being tapped and feed it into the hole gently as you turn it. This is one place where the sensitivity of your fingers is really important, and cranking really hard is a bad idea. Don't force anything.

Perhaps others will have more suggestions.
 
My local Ace has them, as does the HD, I believe, but I'm unsure if they carry 8-32. Again, I prefer 1/4-20, due to the tremendous torque you can apply.

I went out to the shop--I can send you 4 each, 10-32 & 1/4-20, PM me your snailmail.

I use 8-32 EZ-lok as in the Chunger thread. I've been VERY successful with them. Ace hardware has them (in screw boxes in the box marked furniture hardware) I also bought a bunch at Amazon.

I experimented with 10-24 and 1/4-20 sizes too. But decided on 8-32 because the screw heads seemed too large for the metal backplates with the larger sizes. I only use 8-32 flat (or oval) socket head machine screws (tighten with an Allen wrench) These allow an amazing amount of torque and you can crank a neck down as much as you want. Trust me!

I have also used the fat screw-driver inserted ones usually in smaller sizes like 4-40 (which take a 1/4" drill!) for like say pickup mounting screws. Experience has not been good! Generally I ended up using a drill one size over the proper size so as not to destroy the inserts putting them into hard wood. And then I coat them with gorilla glue to keep them in place so they won't turn. They do NOT work well and are much harder to install than the EZ-lok things you just crank in with an allen wrench. But they do work to hold pickups down and won't pull out no matter how strong the springs/foam under the pickup.

So I have to recommend 8-32 of the EZ-lok (was in the thumbnail of OP) type. They are zinc but are very easy to install, create huge tension and I've had no failures with any of the basses I've put them in. Really improves the "feel" of the neck as well. I've also used them to hold down bridges. They work especially well on the G&L Bridges that are held down with just two screws and tend to pull up easily. Fixes that. But you do have to drill out the bridge holes to fit 8-32 screws.
 
I use button head 1/4-20 machine screws. The flat skirt of the head lays flat on the neckplate. I haven't had to deal with pre-existing holes that were too close to the outside edges of the heel, though.

I was thinking about what I'd have to do, if I had a problem like that: I'd drill/fill the old holes w/ hardwood dowels, then drill the holes for the threaded inserts in the neck, closer to the centerline.
Then, use dowel centers to transfer the new positions to the neck pocket, which had been plugged the same way, and drill the through holes on a drill press. (This should all be drillpress work)