Upon further review it appears i was mistaken..looking at the 3015lf & 3012lf crossovers!! Thank you for he clarification.
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fEARful Sub build advice
- Thread starter eestatic
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Upon further review it appears i was mistaken..looking at the 3015lf & 3012lf crossovers!! Thank you for he clarification.
Exactly. Plus the pair of fEarfuls together drops the load to 4 ohms, your Ampeg SVT grabs another gear.
The increased lower frequencies are balanced by increased mid when you switch out of the Lpad. Plus your tasteful eq on the amp.
Everybody likes more watts, right?
But here’s an interesting wrinkle. Check out a thread called, “ I ran my Streamliner at 16 ohm”. By running your pair of fEarfuls in series, the amp sees a 16 ohm load. You can push the amp harder with LESS volume. The Streamliner would get even more tube like gooeyness, without getting stupid loud. You have to build a series cable, but that’s a fun project in itself.
Check to see if the svt can do 16ohm.
The increased lower frequencies are balanced by increased mid when you switch out of the Lpad. Plus your tasteful eq on the amp.
Everybody likes more watts, right?
But here’s an interesting wrinkle. Check out a thread called, “ I ran my Streamliner at 16 ohm”. By running your pair of fEarfuls in series, the amp sees a 16 ohm load. You can push the amp harder with LESS volume. The Streamliner would get even more tube like gooeyness, without getting stupid loud. You have to build a series cable, but that’s a fun project in itself.
Check to see if the svt can do 16ohm.
Good point. Note that running a "sub" in series with a regular cab is likely to cause problems - the sub crossover will attenuate the output from the 6/1 drivers in the other cab. Another reason to just build a second cab same (more or less) as the first.
Incidentally, a sub intentionally has a larger footprint than its companion cab to reduce the likelihood of a stacked configuration toppling over.
AFAIK the normal thing is to build mirrored cabs and turn the top cab upside down. This puts the mid and tweeter close together and aligns them vertically.
I have 2 12/6s (one is mirror imaged) that I stack vertically when I use both.
I don’t have a picture, but the 12/6 cube stacks nicely over the 15/6.
The 12/6 cube pair above is built mirror image. The cube is already a bit of a brain twister, a fun build. I did the same for the pair of 15/6/1’s.
Talk about overkill.
When it was all said and done, 95% of the time, I’d grab a 12/6 cube and head out the door.
The 12/6 cube pair above is built mirror image. The cube is already a bit of a brain twister, a fun build. I did the same for the pair of 15/6/1’s.
When it was all said and done, 95% of the time, I’d grab a 12/6 cube and head out the door.
How would/could you stack 2 of these? Or floor placement side-by-side? Would there be any sonic perturbances?
Just like the 15/6/1 stack in the post above. One port is on the floor, the other at the top of the stack. Ideally, the top cab would be a mirror image of the bottom cab. Mids and horns line up.. sounds tricky, but basically all the changes involve the baffle and mid compartment.
I learned that the horns didn’t add much to my experience, they crossover around 6k. Not a lot of bass up there. I ran the horns off the GK 1001rb high circuit, which crosses at 5k, and could give me 50 watts, with the horn control on the amp. Cool, but not worth it for me to keep putting $100 per horn into a cab, plus the added complexity of the wiring.
On the 12/6 cube, I went with the inexpensive alpha 6 mid, and the CBG crossover. Super simple, robust and no lpads or switches. I liked this better than the 15/6/1. It just seemed to fit better with what I wanted to hear and carry. A smoother bass sound, where the 15/6/1 could be a bit harsh in the upper mids.
I learned that the horns didn’t add much to my experience, they crossover around 6k. Not a lot of bass up there. I ran the horns off the GK 1001rb high circuit, which crosses at 5k, and could give me 50 watts, with the horn control on the amp. Cool, but not worth it for me to keep putting $100 per horn into a cab, plus the added complexity of the wiring.
On the 12/6 cube, I went with the inexpensive alpha 6 mid, and the CBG crossover. Super simple, robust and no lpads or switches. I liked this better than the 15/6/1. It just seemed to fit better with what I wanted to hear and carry. A smoother bass sound, where the 15/6/1 could be a bit harsh in the upper mids.
I see! Thank you for your input!! I'll build a duplicate of this cab for the Church setup and next one perhaps a cube. I'm intrigued on how it will perform. Thanks to all again for the input on this thread!
