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Fender Bassman 410H speaker options?

Based on your description of the wiring, and on the pictures showing a dynamic horn tweeter with no crossover, I would guess that this was a modification in progress. If you want the horn, it will need a crossover. What drivers are in the cab? Are they functional?

With respect to using this cab, a number of decent drivers will 'work'. The choice of driver will come down to budget, spl goals, tone goals and weight. Just broadly, how would you rank these? If tone is important, how would you describe your preferences?
 
With respect to using this cab, a number of decent drivers will 'work'. The choice of driver will come down to budget, spl goals, tone goals and weight. Just broadly, how would you rank these? If tone is important, how would you describe your preferences?

Briefly, I rank them budget, weight, then tone. Tone is important, but im a noob, so a big part of this is to experience the different tones there are. And I have an Eden 2x15 cab, so I wanted to also try a 4x10, just so I can hear the difference, and determine my preference. (Yes I know that there are a lot more variables than just speaker # and size, but I gotta start somewhere...)

My plan is to replace the entire guts, with the same speakers, backplate, harness, and Foster horn found in the Invalid Link Removed from avatar. It uses the Genz Benz Faital Neo 10pr300's. Essentially I want to know if I took the guts out of that cab and put in my Fender enclosure would it work well enough to be worth it? And/or what mods I would have to make that would make it work well. Simple as that. :)
 
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For 4 of the GB 10's wired in parallel (nominal 4 ohm load) in a sealed 4.8 cf cab lined with poly (not filled or stuffed - shaken, not stirred) , F3 is about 82 Hz, F5 is 72 Hz, and F10 is 53 Hz. There is about 0.8 db of peaking centered on 160 Hz - inconsequential. If the cab is ported and tuned to 60 Hz, F3 is about 73 Hz, F5 is 67 Hz and F10 is 52 Hz. There is about 2.3 db of peaking centered on about 125 Hz - strong upper bass and lower mids. The ported alternative has greater excursion limited power handling below about 120 Hz. Tuning lower will not provide more deep bass, and tuning higher decreases deep bass while increasing peaking. Both alternatives would be good, workable cabs. The drivers have more 'effective' excursion capability than is indicated in the Xmax spec and can provide quite respectable performance.
 
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the factory wiring is called series parallel. And is rather common for
4x speaker cabinets

And yes 8ohms is a good choice so an additional cabinet could be added later.

don't get confused by the wiring it's very simple 2 sets of drivers are wired in series for 16ohms then both pairs of series drivers are run in parallel for 8ohms. so series parallel wiring will always yield a cabinet same ohms as the impedance of the single driver.

so you would be looking at 8ohm speakers for series parallel

likewise you can also use 32ohm bass drivers and wire each one in parallel for a total load of 8ohms

which is a very good option using the basslite SC10_32 which is a 32ohm

with better sensitivity compared to other sealed drivers at 94 dB. otherwise real benefit to converting to ported would be a few drivers in the 96dB range which would add significant amount of sensitivity.

likewise ported or sealed all tens usually go in .8 to 1.3 cubic feet per driver. so no worries fender did fine with the design
 
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Astro and Bogey, thanks!

So it sounds like I am in the right ballpark--I can make this existing enclosure work WELL with these drivers. At this point, I have only one question @AstroSonic , can you please rephrase your last post, in english? ;)

Yes, I will plan to line with poly, and yes I think I want to with a 4ohm cab. But How do I "port and tune" my cab to 60Hz? I will go do my own ****** right now, but I have already attempted to understand this "cab tuning" concept, and the barrier to entry is steep! (just to understand--everyone assumes extensive experience in their explanations--or maybe I am just that stupid...) :( I mean seriously, does this mean adding a plastic funnel looking thing of a certain length and diameter somewhere in my cab, or is it different?
 
The ported cab will have a deeper, more punchy bass. The sealed cab will be more articulate. You can easily have both: just install the port tubes. If you plug the ports (stuff hand towel in each one), you can try out the sealed option. Pull the towels out and it's ported. There are plugs for standard pipe sizes - inexpensive and available in good hardware stores. Porting would require cutting 2 round holes (4 or 6 inches diameter), and installing tubes of appropriate length (use aquarium glue).