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Fender P bass question...

Thanks for posting that. So based on this :
image.jpg

The 01 and 03 make sense (p neck,maple neck and fb) it does have the skunk stripe however that seems like it was more common with the rosewood fb (that's the part of the image cut off above)

So I guess the 1963 is a serial number. It does not seem to be the year based on that link. Given the neck plate serial number I'll just figure it was the original making it 72.
 
The stamp on your maple neck most likely indicates 1973 (or 1976), whatever makes sense with the rest of the bass (I'll explain in a bit..). Here's what the code means..

01 = P Bass
03 = fretted maple neck
19 = 19th week

The last 2 digits is where it gets confusing. Normally the 2nd to the last digit indicates the year and the last digit indicates the day of that week with this style of code (and there were actually 3 completely different neck stamp/codes simulateously being used by Fender in the early '70s). I've seen many examples from the early/mid '70s in which the last 2 digits are switched with this particular style of neck code (so the 2nd to last digit would now indicate the weekday and the last digit indicates the year). This is coming from someone who has seen hundreds of these codes over the years (me). I personally believe the inconsistency was due to some employees simply marking them one way (the newer way), and others employees marking them the other way (the older "batch" code way of the late '60s). They were both sort of confusing code systems, and all the while, Fender was still often using the regular 'ol date stamps at this time too! Then add in the fact that no one making these necks back then probably ever thought any of this would even matter beyond the factory anyways.. and voila, you get some inconsistencies.

So with these old Fenders, you always have to look at them as the sum of all their parts, and play a little detective sometimes to get an accurate date of manufacture. You said your ser. # is from circa 1972 (and there is ALWAYS an overlap of about a year or so with all Fender ser. #s because the neck plates were ordered in bulk and were used on all models of basses and guitars simultaneously and grabbed randomly from boxes). To date your bass, you will also need to get the codes off the pots and the codes off the undersides of the pickups to have any real accuracy. If everything dates to around 1973, then your neck stamp would most likely indicate - week 19 of 1973, day 6. If the paint transfer between the neck and body matches and the rest of the bass has the correct appointments for that era, then it's safe to call it a 1973 at that point (or whatever the last date-able part you can find is).

Now, it's possible that the neck could be from 1976, but that's why you look for any signs of that neck being mismatched to that body, as well as the rest of the appointments on the bass... Beginning in 1976, Fender started making changes to the tuners they used, the way they routed the bodies, the headstock decals, etc.. So if everything else on the bass is mid '70s style, then the neck code would indicate 1976. And likewise, if all the other parts and appointments are early '70s style, then the neck code would indicate 1973 (assuming that it's not a parts bass that was thrown together by someone before you).

This is one of those small tidbits of info that very few people know about unless they have worked on or owned a huge sample of Fenders from this era. In other words, you aren't gonna find this info in any books, but I assure you, I've seen this many times. Hope I didn't make it more confusing, lol. If you feel like taking the bass all the way apart and posting the pics, we can figure this out definitively.
 
Also, skunk stripes were never used on rosewood necks until the late '70s (and only then for looks). The skunk stripes were used on ALL maple necks from the late 1940s onward (except for the uber rare maple "cap" necks of the late '60s) because the maple necks were 1-piece and the truss rod had to be installed from behind. Then the skunk stripe was used to cover the truss rod. The rosewood necks did not require a skunk stripe (or the "plug" on the head stock) because the truss rod was simply installed before the rosewood was glued on, so there was no need to route the neck from behind like the 1-piece maples.
 
Thanks for the thorough explanation/detective work. Givin how long I've had it as well as the person I got it from (friend's older brother who I knew well). He had got the bass from someone he knew that was the original owner. I'm pretty confident that the info I got years ago is accurate and that its a 72 because I was around 15 I guess when I got it.

The neck is great and in great shape mainly due to it getting a fret job and bone nut about 25 years ago by Roger Sadowsky himself. This was back in the day when he was still setting up guitars in a small space in NYC and his basses were not being mass produced yet. This bass is incredibly heavy but sounds really good so I used it for a lot of session work and gigs that were typical 1 set NYC showcase type gigs. It was simply too heavy to use for the many years of 3 set nights which I used something else, so the neck still plays perfectly.

This is what has brought this whole thing up because rather than just let the bass sit I've decided to put the neck on a different body so I can play it on a regular basis. I'm not touching the body so I can always put it back or if I find another neck I like I'd also put it back.
There is something about having this for so many years that I'm pretty happy about the idea of making it a part of my main bass now.

Anyway likely too long of a story but you were nice enough to provide all that info so I thought I'd share the history.

Maybe I'll close this out with a pic as I'm supposed to pick up the bass this weekend after its all put together.

Sorry all for high jacking thread...