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Double Bass Fingerboard oil?

#21
Well he said it's a non-drying oil. My question is this: why is wood not like leather in that it needs conditioning rather than just sealant? I know that my sandals are better off with some neatsfoot oil, and I'm pretty sure it's not a drying oil. Am I misunderstanding or is there some elusive (or maybe not-so-elusive) logic?
 
#22
Any finish on the fingerboard should be 1) protective and 2) non-toxic. Many oils and wood finishes contain petroleum distillates and metallic driers. These are not good things to be in contact with hour after hour. That's why I'll only use pure linseed (flax) oil on fingerboards and necks.
 
#23
arnoldschnitzer said:
Any finish on the fingerboard should be 1) protective and 2) non-toxic. Many oils and wood finishes contain petroleum distillates and metallic driers. These are not good things to be in contact with hour after hour. That's why I'll only use pure linseed (flax) oil on fingerboards and necks.
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Raw linseed oil dries very slowly. Boiled linseed oil has driers. And... most oil varnishes used on basses have driers in them. Don't touch that varnish! ;)
 
#25
I talked to my sawmill friend about the finish vs. conditioner thing and he clarified my question somewhat. He said that with leather you use the oil to not only soften but also to make the leather more flexible. Since a fingerboard doesn't really need to be flexible, there's not really a point. The finish approach, though, has a point that has been explained already.
 
#26
Bob Branstetter said:
Raw linseed oil dries very slowly. Boiled linseed oil has driers. And... most oil varnishes used on basses have driers in them. Don't touch that varnish! ;)
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Refined linseed from an art store has no metallic driers added but dries nicely in a few hours. As you know, Bob, varnish hardens to a relatively impervious film and is harmless unless you eat it. However, working with the fumes can cause intelligence loss. One day I was varnishing and I started fantasizing about becoming a drummer... :p
 
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#27
arnoldschnitzer said:
Refined linseed from an art store has no metallic driers added but dries nicely in a few hours. As you know, Bob, varnish hardens to a relatively impervious film and is harmless unless you eat it. However, working with the fumes can cause intelligence loss. One day I was varnishing and I started fantasizing about becoming a drummer... :p
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Actually, that was my point about all of the finishes. The actual amount of driers in drying oil is very, very small and once dried, only an environmental nut should be particularly concerned about the health danger posed by the drier. I would venture to say that the health dangers from breathing the air around (wet) varnish would be far more than any from rubbing against the dried product with your hands. I'm sure as hell not going to worry about it.
 
#28
Josh McNutt said:
Well he said it's a non-drying oil. My question is this: why is wood not like leather in that it needs conditioning rather than just sealant? I know that my sandals are better off with some neatsfoot oil, and I'm pretty sure it's not a drying oil. Am I misunderstanding or is there some elusive (or maybe not-so-elusive) logic?
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" Have you heard about polishing the fb with tooth paste ? "
 
#31
[the Bay Area I am still looking, although I have found michael olivola in oakland who does good work and at a fair price QUOTE]
Try Gael McKeon in Berkeley.
He does all my work n plays bass too. 510 684 7563.

or Steve Swan Bass/ Guitars in Burlingame 650 515 1014.
he has over 40 basses in the shop and a website too.

I m who has low action with Steel strings BTW
 
#34
Using circular motions I sand linseed oil into the fingerboard with a small piece of 400 (fine) wet and dry paper, forming a black slurry that fills the surface. Soon afterwards I thoroughly wipe off the excess oil. The board is left darker and smoother and IMO does not need further treatment until it needs re-dressing many years later.

Makers of cheaper basses often thickly varnish the entire neck. This can become sticky with perspiration and dirt that interfere with shifting. After sanding off this varnish linseed oil can be used as part of a different process that will leave the neck silky smooth "for ever". IMO this is much more important than treating the fingerboard because it has a much more profound effect on ease of shifting.

Cheers, DP
 
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#35
David Potts said:
Using circular motions I sand linseed oil into the fingerboard with a small piece of 400 (fine) wet and dry paper, forming a black slurry that fills the surface. Soon afterwards I thoroughly wipe off the excess oil. The board is left darker and smoother and IMO does not need further treatment until it needs re-dressing many years later.

Using linseed oil in a different process will leave the neck silky smooth "for ever". IMO this is much more important than treating the fingerboard because it has a much more profound effect on ease of shifting.

Cheers, DP
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Yes! I lightly dry sand the neck with 1000 and 1500 grit sandpaper, which polishes the surface and leaves it silky smooth, as well. (It does not remove any material.)
The ease of shifting is profoundly enhanced. I agree, David.
Thanks.
 

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