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First Build (old german bass content)

Hi there,

I've just finished my first build, started a few months ago. It 's an german FASAN Short Scale inspired bass (quite rare apparently - still searching any info about it). I'm a big fan of these old german basses (Hofner, Klira, Framus,etc.). I wanted to built one for a long time, keeping the overall feeling of these, but with enhanced specs...
Here's the model :
view


Here are the specs of my build :
Short scale : 30"
19 + 0 frets
body :basswood + Marshall elephant red tolex covering (!)
neck :maple
fingerboard : rosewood
Neck profile : as close as my 74 4001 Rick
Pickguard : yellowish perloid
pickups : 2 Dearmond Turbo-Jet single coils
Bridge : Gibson 3 points (5' strings spacing).

And the result after some months of sweat and doubt (pictures were taken with my old I-Phone, so not top quality...) :
IMG_2879_zps5dfe2e63.jpg


IMG_2880_zpsef81966d.jpg

I must admit that the tolex covering was a pain in the ass to put in, and it's not as perfect as expected. But nevermind, I'm quite proud of the job done.


IMG_2884_zps3963a3de.jpg


So let's start from the beginning.
 
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Very cool project..! I also really like the tolex and the white piping.. Well done :cool:

You have not described your process of working with the tolex, but here are a few tips that you can consider. Maybe they can help you regarding the ''problem areas'' you have described. Here are some pics for illustration, this is a bass stack I made for myself recently...

1...
Don't be afraid to use a heat gun on the tolex. In fact, you must use a heat gun to get the tolex working with you instead of against you when working on corners and bends. It's really easy to mold into shape when hot, and it keeps the shape when cooled down.
2...
Don't be afraid to cut the tolex where you have corners / bends otherwise there will be too much tolex and you can't get a tight fit. It will keep ''folding''. For instance, in the second picture I have attached (close up of an orange corner) there is 3 seams where I have cut the tolex and pushed it back together and glued it down. You can barely make out one seam, but the two others are totally invisible.
3...
When gluing the tolex I prefer to use this type of glue that you brush on, and you can get it locally in Germany. The spray glue makes such a mess..! Invalid Link Removed
however, when gluing seams after cutting the tolex, or when gluing the tolex into the channels where you have the piping I use CA (crazy glue). A lot of ''holding power'' is needed in areas where you have stretched the tolex and it needs better glue otherwise it will un-glue itself after a while.

That's my experience from working with the lovely stuff... It takes time and patience, but so does the alternative of making a beautiful finish...

foto.jpg IMG_5913.jpg IMG_6232.jpg IMG_6248.jpg IMG_6251.jpg
 
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