• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

fixing a medium ding on a maple neck ?

pfschim

Just a Skeleton with a Jazz bass
Supporting Member
Apr 26, 2006
9,350
10,943
SF Bay Area
so, before anyone posts this .. I did a search on this question first and did not see anything that applied.

Ok, so the question. My USA Jazz deluxe fell off it's stand the other day, hit a table edge and got a fairly serious dent/ding on the back, right at the top of the neck where the wood of the neck swells/flairs to merge with the headstock. Not quite behind the headstock, and not really anywhere where it interferes with my thumb position.

But, it kind of bums me out, and I wonder if there is a way to address it that does not involve big dollars or a highly trained wood craftsman.

It seems as if I could easily sand the depression down smooth, but then I would also be taking the finish off as well.

I like the bass a lot,use it all the time but recognize that instruments get scraped, and scratched and dinged. Heck, apparently there is even a cult here on TB that does this to basses on purpose in the name of "relicing" :hmm: This may end up being a character mark, btu I'd liek to fix it if I can do it fairly simply.

Any ideas ?
 
I saw an article in BP mag a few months ago where an older german upright had the same problem. The guy used heat and moisture to raise the grain in the wood, sand it smooth, and repeat until the dent was gone. Finished with progressively finer sandpaper, steel wool, and then stained the area so you couldn't even tell.
 
thanks for the replies -

Vanceman, not sure this will help with a finished maple neck. I'm sure I can sand down the dent but then I will also be sanding off the poly finish on the spot and I don't think I want just bare wood. Once it's sanded, I'm not sure how to spot refinish without it looking like a hack repair.

Jazz ad, your idea sounds more promising although I am leery of superglue as I have found it soemtimes difficult, and messy to work with. But that being said, unless I hear more ideas, I think I'll give the superglue a try.
 
just leave it and feel good about having added some character to an instrument you'll likely have for years to come!

or hire a professional...unless you're good with woodworking, I'd leave well enough alone.
 
It is called a drop fill. Medium or heavy viscosity CA glue is used. Since these are much thicker than the liquid thin variety that most people are used to it is much easier to work with and not very messy.

Apply the glue so that it mounds up higher than the surrounding area. Let it harden. The thicker the glue, the longer it takes. The resulting lump can be worked down to near level with files, sandpaper, or a scraper. When very close to level, switch to 400 and 600 wet or dry papers. Use some soapy water to float the abrasive particles away from the work. Wipe between grits. Follow up with rubbing compounds. If you stop at 600 grit, follow up with some Meguiar's #2, #9, and #7. This is for a high gloss finish. If the lacquer is satin, you will have to judge when the gloss level has been matched.
 
if the wood fibers have not been torn you should be able to steam it out with a damp cloth and a soldering iron... just put the cloth on the ding and gently press the iron onto the spot, you will hear it sizzle, leave it there for 1-2 seconds and remove... then check progress, slowly the dent will rise... I did exactly the same thing on my old Stingray 5.. brand new... dinged back of the neck.. I was CRYIN... but the soldering iron/wet rag trick worked a treat!! but as long as the fibers are not damaged and only dented. good luck!
 
Steam works well on unfinished and oil finished necks, like a modern Stingray. It does an o.k. job on necks that are finished in nitro, like old Fender and Gibson. If the coating is unbroken you can steam a poly-whatever finish until the bovines return and the only thing that is going to happen is the dial on the electric meter will spin just a little bit faster. That is strictly drop fill territory.
 
thanks much for all the posts.

It's def a poly, not nitro finish (2006 Am Deluxe Jazz), wood fibers look ok, not ripped, just pushed in a bit.

It's really just a cosmetic thing as the ding is just past (up?) from where my thumb rests when playing open or 1st position. If my thumb hit this spot every time I was down there it really would bother me.

So, again, I think I'll go looking for some med/heavy viscosity superglue today and give a try for the drop fill repair.

thanks
 

Latest posts