The last three frets on my Peavey B-Ninety bass are lifting up out of the fret slots on both ends of the frets. I have some thin super glue (stewmac #10) and some whip tip nozzles. Videos online suggest clamping the frets down with a radius block after gluing. According to the Peavey manual, this fretboard has an 8" radius. I don't have any radius blocks and can't find one with an 8" radius. Would a 9.5 radius block work or any other suggestions for clamping them down? I am also wondering if the neck tilt adjustment being used could cause this?
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Frets lifting on Peavey Bass
- Thread starter gregmari
- Start date
In practice, you just need something to put pressure on the end of the fret that's popped. A matching radius block works or one with a smaller radius.
Barring either of those options you can make your own caul to push appropriately. Get creative. It doesn't have to be pretty or brand name. I just did this on a bass and for tough to clamp frets I used a scrap of Lumber the same width as the fretboard with a smaller scrap (think:chopstick) glued along the edge such that it contacted the frets right near the ends.
On other frets, depending on the neck shape, you can use cheap spring clamps without any caul at all. If those frets are right above the square heel of the neck this might work fine:
ANVIL 2 in. Spring Clamp-99691 - The Home Depot
Barring either of those options you can make your own caul to push appropriately. Get creative. It doesn't have to be pretty or brand name. I just did this on a bass and for tough to clamp frets I used a scrap of Lumber the same width as the fretboard with a smaller scrap (think:chopstick) glued along the edge such that it contacted the frets right near the ends.
On other frets, depending on the neck shape, you can use cheap spring clamps without any caul at all. If those frets are right above the square heel of the neck this might work fine:
ANVIL 2 in. Spring Clamp-99691 - The Home Depot
Last edited:
Turnaround
Commercial User
Check first to see if the frets will spring back down. I have run into a few situations where the fret slots wren't cut quite deeply enough and the frets simply would not seat. But assuming that they will press down OK, use something like what was suggested by dwizum to clamp them down and use the super glue.
The neck tilt mechanism did not cause the frets to lift. Most likely the lifting was caused by shrinkage of the fretboard due to dryness. That can cause the frets to pop.
The neck tilt mechanism did not cause the frets to lift. Most likely the lifting was caused by shrinkage of the fretboard due to dryness. That can cause the frets to pop.
Given that the slots are deep enough:
When finished there may be some CA residue or spray residue. CA is scraped with razor blade. Spray is removed with naphtha or 0000 steel wool.*
*If you elect to use steel wool you may want to use some masking tape over the pickups.
- Liquid thin CA
- Accelerator for CA
- Masking tape
- Stick with notch filed in. 1/4" dowel is good.
- Apply three strips of tape perpendicular to the frets.
- Place the first piece over the centerline. The other two go on the ends.
- Peel back for one fret end.
- Apply CA and allow to wick into kerf.
- Press fret down with notched end of stick on the fret.
- Spray accelerator.
- Wait thirty seconds.
- Peel tape on same side to expose the next fret.
- Lather, rinse, repeat.
When finished there may be some CA residue or spray residue. CA is scraped with razor blade. Spray is removed with naphtha or 0000 steel wool.*
*If you elect to use steel wool you may want to use some masking tape over the pickups.
Turnaround
Commercial User
FWIW 202dy, I am of two minds when it comes to the use of the accelerator. It sure speeds up the process, but I find that it often causes the CA to "boil" as it hardens and that seems to reduce its strength. Still, it's probably good enough for this application. I'm using accelerator less frequently these days.
Yes. I agree.
When accelerator is applied to liquid thin CA the result looks like plastic foam. It's pretty soft, too. That doesn't inspire a lot of confidence. It does not seem to cause the same effect in medium viscosity CA. However, it does cause it to skin over and it takes a while for the encapsulated material to cure.
While I don't have any evidence because of the difficulty of seeing* the results. However, I've used the method since the late eighties and not had a failure yet. The only real problem with doing it this way is getting the offending frets level with the adjacent frets. In this particular case, the frets are on one side of the repair area. So leveling is a bit less of a problem as long as there is some fall-away. Even when it is, it doesn't take much to create it.
Then again, maybe I should rethink the method? Use long blocks or rods, clamp everything in place, then apply. I'm not sure that I can get the guitar off the bench in as timely a fashion. Maybe I'll test the methods over the next dozen or so and study the time.
*I can't see into the kerf as the CA hardens and even if I could my ancient eyeballs would require magnification so significant that the lenses could cause a properly focused lamp to burn a hole to the center of the earth.
When accelerator is applied to liquid thin CA the result looks like plastic foam. It's pretty soft, too. That doesn't inspire a lot of confidence. It does not seem to cause the same effect in medium viscosity CA. However, it does cause it to skin over and it takes a while for the encapsulated material to cure.
While I don't have any evidence because of the difficulty of seeing* the results. However, I've used the method since the late eighties and not had a failure yet. The only real problem with doing it this way is getting the offending frets level with the adjacent frets. In this particular case, the frets are on one side of the repair area. So leveling is a bit less of a problem as long as there is some fall-away. Even when it is, it doesn't take much to create it.
Then again, maybe I should rethink the method? Use long blocks or rods, clamp everything in place, then apply. I'm not sure that I can get the guitar off the bench in as timely a fashion. Maybe I'll test the methods over the next dozen or so and study the time.
*I can't see into the kerf as the CA hardens and even if I could my ancient eyeballs would require magnification so significant that the lenses could cause a properly focused lamp to burn a hole to the center of the earth.
Turnaround
Commercial User
Used superglue and spring clamps. Turned out to be a pretty easy fix. No more string buzz! Thanks everyone.
