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Genz-Benz | GBE 250C Head | Output board resistor value

Greetings, I come in pieces.

I recently went surfing for a new head to accompany a forlorn 4x10 (and let's be honest, my axe, too) collecting a very sad layer dust. I happened upon a name I recognized from my teenage GAS days and did a bit of poking around to find out more about it. A few short minutes later, I popped up to my local GC which had this used GBE 250C head for sale. Tried it out for a few minutes and snatched it up before someone else did.

Got it home and after some very rusty playing, I decided some due diligence cleaning was in order. Found a surprisingly low amount of dust—I was expecting a lot more—a few threaded screw clips were rattling around (lucky me, no shorts, I think...), and then I noticed a resistor that just might need replacement.

I would've just decoded the color bands, but...
29TDj6Mh.jpg


I desoldered it out and got a measurement... 11 Ohms is what it shows. That doesn't seem right to me, but I'd like a second opinion, as I have no schematic, and not enough analog circuitry experience to divine what the correct value should be. I mean, it's working at the resistance it shows, but I don't feel comfortable playing through it more without replacing it.

If anyone has a 250C they'd be willing to crack open and snap a pic of the resistor in question for me, it's R96 on the output board:
d8O3o2v.jpg

Ignore the isopropanol- smeared sharpie reminder mark, but it's just north of there, above C25.

Or alternatively, if anyone happens to have the schematic and could read off the value from there for me (I don't know how impolitic it is to ask for a schematic right out, and I don't really need the whole thing at this point). I don't want to be disrespectful to the creators, whom I've seen contribute graciously to the community here, which is a very cool thing for them to do. Hats off to you.

I'm also open to any other alternate paths to working out what it should be, if that's easier. I don't want this to be a hey, do all the work for me kind of request, but I'm rusty, and would appreciate any help :)

Many thanks in advance.
 
That's a 10 ohm, 1W metal oxide (flame proof) part. It looks like somebody may have worked on it, replaced the original part with a conventional resistor thinking there was no difference and it too failed but caught fire and damaged the PCB.

When that part fails, it indicates a catastrophic oscillation for either an illegal (capacitive) load, or a very high frequency oscillation within the preceding electronics. If the oscillation is bad enough, C25 can be damaged and if it is shorted, it will take out a new resistor.

If the amp still works after all of that, you are pretty lucky. You will need a scope to verify that there is no oscillation, which may have been the root cause of the issue. You could clean the PCB of conductive char residue, replace C25 and the resistor and take your chances, but it could get very messy and expensive to repair. I have limited parts for the 250C/500H models as they were discontinued over 20 years ago. I looked and do not have any PCBs left, I do stock all the repair parts though.

Unfortunately these models are not covered under the flat rate service program and are often more expensive to ship and repair than they are worth. It really depends on what OTHER damage there might be. Is yours the head or the combo? The combo is worth more because of the value of the cabinet, the heads seem to sell fro around $200, and for a little more money there are a lot of newer, lighter weight amps to choose from.

If you are interested in fixing it, message me and I will get you the options.
 
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