I'm thinking about trying stainless steel wound strings because i heard they are one of the brightest strings to have. And i need strings that are really bright sounding and can cut through the distortion guitar while playing at drop b. i use a 4 string tuned down to B F# B E so i use .110 or .115. Does anybody have any experience with these strings or any strings that have a really bright sound and can cut through heavily distorted guitars?
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Gonna try stainless steel wound strings
- Thread starter cubano1147
- Start date
That is a wrong logic I think! If you want to hear bass in the mix, best way is to play flats, because you are in the frequency range of bass,guitars and cymbals cant go there so you will be heard, bright strings have that zing, clank which is lost in the mix because of the cymbals and guitars (higher frequencies).
If you want to cut through and not be lost in the mix, the key is midrange, not treble. It won't make a bit of difference if you use flats, nickle, or stainless steel. If you don't have enough mids then you won't cut through.
You are on the right track with stainless >>flatwounds<<
Sadowsky black labels are great but a little pricey. On the other end of the cost spectrum are Detroit steels from webstrings.com.
With your tuning and 4-banger, I'd recommend the lighter gauge Sadowsky black labels 5 string set and use the low 4 strings of the set. Suspect you need to get to .125 for your bottom end string. Might need to file your nut a little to get it seated properly...maybe not.
Sadowsky black labels are great but a little pricey. On the other end of the cost spectrum are Detroit steels from webstrings.com.
With your tuning and 4-banger, I'd recommend the lighter gauge Sadowsky black labels 5 string set and use the low 4 strings of the set. Suspect you need to get to .125 for your bottom end string. Might need to file your nut a little to get it seated properly...maybe not.
Let'snot get crazy about flats. No string will help you cut through as much as SS rounds squeaks and all. The key is still midrange and that's were flats don't always cut it in a rock setting which requires more of higher mids than lower. Don't get me wrong I've used flats exclusively for years until recently and I now seek out sets that deliver high mids as well as low, not just some clank on top but actuall harmonics and I try not to discriminate whether flat or round. Some flats deliver some don't but it just might be to close to call.
I only use stainless and never get lost in the mix. They have more punch and if you use the eq properly, you will be heard.
thanks for all the input. I'm gonna start messing with my mid now during rehearsal.
I only use stainless and never get lost in the mix. They have more punch and if you use the eq properly, you will be heard. What brand would you recommend to buy?
I only use stainless and never get lost in the mix. They have more punch and if you use the eq properly, you will be heard. What brand would you recommend to buy?
D'Addario Prosteels are bright (on the packet it says 'super bright') and flexible, excellent strings. Lots of high end 'zing'. The best steels I've tried.
I recommend a fatter gauge for B, .130 or .135, this will give the string more definition and punch. Also I recommend a tension-balanced set (equal tension on each string), you could build a set from singles ...
E .045 29.6 pounds of tension
B .060 30.9
F# .085 32.0
B .130 31.7
... or use a 5 string set .130 to .045 without the E string.
DR Hi-Beams. Stainless, wound tighter, users say they don't chew up frets like Roto's do.
If you want warmer, then look here:
DR Lo-Riders, Nickle.
Sadowsky Blue Nickle.
If you want warmer, then look here:
DR Lo-Riders, Nickle.
Sadowsky Blue Nickle.
I was in a similar situation as you are. I have a SVT3 dialed in great for classics, top 40, r&b cover gigs. But I have also played in original heavy metal bands with modern distortion levels and drop-B. The answer for me was adding a SansAmp Bass Driver DI. Stick one of those in your signal chain and tweak drive, bass, treble, presence and blend until you sit right. (Unfortunately, it does not have an independent Mid control, though it provides some mid voodoo from the bass and treble controls and you still have your amp head mid control, presumably).
Or consider the SansAmp VT bass with its different EQ section. (I've not tried one).
Or consider the SansAmp VT bass with its different EQ section. (I've not tried one).
Okay, I'm confused now. Mostly because of your statement below.
You implied you didn't use them, now are telling us you only use them.
He was quoting Rockmusician.Okay, I'm confused now. Mostly because of your statement below.
You implied you didn't use them, now are telling us you only use them.
Personally I think it has much more to do with the pickups you're using and how your EQ is set than it does the type of strings.
A P/J cuts better than a P because of that bright Jazz pup in the bridge.
Flats can get lost in a mix just as easily as rounds. Just go to the lakland website and listen to the sound clips they have. The rounds tend to stick out much more than the flats.
