Gretsch G5265 Bass VI

[HHudson]

Hey! I know is super late but I just got a gretsch jet baritone and new fender 24-100 bass vi string, the lowest one won't fit neither in stop tail or tuners. Any ideas/instruction how can I fit them in?

Hi Murad,

Exactly which Gretsch Jet Model did you get - and importantly, with a Bigsby (i.e. as in the last two photos with a G5265 above) or is it really a Stop Tail?

Exactly where & how are the strings not fitting?
Due to length and/or diameter?

The scale length for the newer G5260 (stop tail) and G5260T (Bigsby) are also 29.75"; however, if it has a stop tail, the string length required will be shorter than on the G5260T and old G5265 w/ a Bigsby (the Bigsby adds a good couple of extra inches to the length of the strings. The old Fender 5350 Bass VI (25-95) strings fit the Bigsby G5265 and I would expect also the G5260T Bigsby model.

If you do not have a Bigsby, this will move the thicker full winding of the string closer to the peg and can cause you not to be able to thread & have few enough winds for the small pegs.

The newer G5260s are also sold now as Baritones with .014-.072 gauge strings, so the stop tail notch (and definitely nut slots) may not be optimal for a .100 string and cause some widening to be required for this gauge.

There are some Gretsch Baritone discussions here on TB for E-E tuning and strings used, but pay close attention to the poster if they have a Bigsby or Hard Tail model.... it makes a difference which strings will work: https://www.talkbass.com/threads/updated-gretsch-baritone-bass-vi.1444228/

People there are using lighter gauges than the VI set you bought.

I know Pyramid (and others) can put together custom sets for you (did it myself with flats years ago for E1 tuning on the old G5265), I'm sure they would assist with rounds. @gingermil has ordered a custom 25 - 100 set from them for his Fender Jaguar Baritone Custom VI (28.5 scale length) but hasn't gotten back on it yet here: https://www.talkbass.com/threads/fender-jaguar-baritone-vi.1617922/#post-27762662
You would still need to attend to the nut and tailpiece to accommodate for the thicker strings though.

 

[Murad]

Hi Murad,

Exactly which Gretsch Jet Model did you get - and importantly, with a Bigsby (i.e. as in the last two photos with a G5265 above) or is it really a Stop Tail?

Exactly where & how are the strings not fitting?
Due to length and/or diameter?

The scale length for the newer G5260 (stop tail) and G5260T (Bigsby) are also 29.75"; however, if it has a stop tail, the string length required will be shorter than on the G5260T and old G5265 w/ a Bigsby (the Bigsby adds a good couple of extra inches to the length of the strings. The old Fender 5350 Bass VI (25-95) strings fit the Bigsby G5265 and I would expect also the G5260T Bigsby model.

If you do not have a Bigsby, this will move the thicker full winding of the string closer to the peg and can cause you not to be able to thread & have few enough winds for the small pegs.

The newer G5260s are also sold now as Baritones with .014-.072 gauge strings, so the stop tail notch (and definitely nut slots) may not be optimal for a .100 string and cause some widening to be required for this gauge.

There are some Gretsch Baritone discussions here on TB for E-E tuning and strings used, but pay close attention to the poster if they have a Bigsby or Hard Tail model.... it makes a difference which strings will work: https://www.talkbass.com/threads/updated-gretsch-baritone-bass-vi.1444228/

People there are using lighter gauges than the VI set you bought.

I know Pyramid (and others) can put together custom sets for you (did it myself with flats years ago for E1 tuning on the old G5265), I'm sure they would assist with rounds. @gingermil has ordered a custom 25 - 100 set from them for his Fender Jaguar Baritone Custom VI (28.5 scale length) but hasn't gotten back on it yet here: https://www.talkbass.com/threads/fender-jaguar-baritone-vi.1617922/#post-27762662
You would still need to attend to the nut and tailpiece to accommodate for the thicker strings though.

Thank you for such a great response! I have a new stop tail version (no bigsby). Maybe I can unwind the string? Should I use a drill to widen the stop tail? And file for the nut?

 

[HHudson]

Hi Murad,

=> "unwind the string?"
I very much doubt that will work.. and the string will be dead afterwards, they are steel & wound at a very high tension on the core.
I haven't looked, but the Fender VI strings used to be expensive, I'm sure you could find a happy recipient who would want to buy them and use that money for new strings which have the correct length (keep as a backup & measure the stock strings you removed).

=> "drill to widen the stop tail"

Please, no (see below)

=> "file for the nut?"

Yes... but... long term a good thing to learn, but you need to read up, understand and be careful e.g. not to deepen it & cause the string to buzz on the first fret...
The stop tail piece (if you do go for a new set and they are also too high a gauge/thickness for you tail piece) may also require filing to widen the slot for the string to seat and pass through. I do not own a Gretsch with a V Stop Tail, so I can't say how involved/difficult that would be, should be possible, but if you do have it in for a setup, have it done by a tech who knows what needs to be done when it is.

TBH, if you are not well versed in doing this type of work, once you have the appropriate strings, it is always a good idea to take it into a tech for a setup - it will play much better afterwards. If you are moving to E-E the neck will most likely also require relief adjustment via the truss rod. All of the above (except the tail piece if necessary depending on your string choice) are all standard things to be done for a setup and should be done with the strings which will be used.

I would suggest trying some of the strings in the linked thread above first, where sets are used which did not require modifying the instrument and only a bit of adjustment. An .090-.095 E string is used on many 30" short scale basses and may not be an issue with your stop tail. Depending on what you will be playing, lower gauges can be better. You need to find out what works for you with string tension/floppyness and the tone. Depending on the construction, strings vary a lot in tension, a thicker string is not always "tighter" and less floppy.... I'm sure if you ask the guys in the thread above using the strings there, they can give you some pointers. Also let them know for what kind of music (or musicians who use a VIer the way you wish to) you want to use it for... Spaghetti western, heavy metal, country tic toc, surf ... some strings lend themselves better to certain genres than others. With bass VI & baritones we don't have the same large range of choices as the others, so there's always a bit of compromising involved .

 

[Murad]

Hi Murad,

=> "unwind the string?"
I very much doubt that will work.. and the string will be dead afterwards, they are steel & wound at a very high tension on the core.
I haven't looked, but the Fender VI strings used to be expensive, I'm sure you could find a happy recipient who would want to buy them and use that money for new strings which have the correct length (keep as a backup & measure the stock strings you removed).

=> "drill to widen the stop tail"

Please, no (see below)

=> "file for the nut?"

Yes... but... long term a good thing to learn, but you need to read up, understand and be careful e.g. not to deepen it & cause the string to buzz on the first fret...
The stop tail piece (if you do go for a new set and they are also too high a gauge/thickness for you tail piece) may also require filing to widen the slot for the string to seat and pass through. I do not own a Gretsch with a V Stop Tail, so I can't say how involved/difficult that would be, should be possible, but if you do have it in for a setup, have it done by a tech who knows what needs to be done when it is.

TBH, if you are not well versed in doing this type of work, once you have the appropriate strings, it is always a good idea to take it into a tech for a setup - it will play much better afterwards. If you are moving to E-E the neck will most likely also require relief adjustment via the truss rod. All of the above (except the tail piece if necessary depending on your string choice) are all standard things to be done for a setup and should be done with the strings which will be used.

I would suggest trying some of the strings in the linked thread above first, where sets are used which did not require modifying the instrument and only a bit of adjustment. An .090-.095 E string is used on many 30" short scale basses and may not be an issue with your stop tail. Depending on what you will be playing, lower gauges can be better. You need to find out what works for you with string tension/floppyness and the tone. Depending on the construction, strings vary a lot in tension, a thicker string is not always "tighter" and less floppy.... I'm sure if you ask the guys in the thread above using the strings there, they can give you some pointers. Also let them know for what kind of music (or musicians who use a VIer the way you wish to) you want to use it for... Spaghetti western, heavy metal, country tic toc, surf ... some strings lend themselves better to certain genres than others. With bass VI & baritones we don't have the same large range of choices as the others, so there's always a bit of compromising involved .

Thank you so so much! I agree that getting it to a guitar tech is really the best solution not screw up a new guitar =) I will do so!

 

[banikek]

Picked up a used Gretsch baritone recently for the sole purpose of converting it to a Bass VI. Some minor mods like drilling out the tail so I could sting a .100 E string, widen the nut slots, and eventually putting on a Gotoh GE103B-T bridge so I could better intonate the low E (helped, but not perfect). Really fun to play and has got me relearning how to use a pick!