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Guitar fetish

Stilettoprefer

Stilettoprefer

Nov 26, 2010
2,011
163
#1
Anyone use bass bodies from these guys? How good is the quality? and are they compatible with fender replacement parts (neck pocket standard fender size)?

I've been looking around on craigslist and everything is either beat to hell or way over priced.

I'm building a parts bass for senior project and decided to get a head start on gathering the parts. Also looking to do it on the cheap side (used parts preferably, but I would rather buy the body and neck new)
 
#2
Stilettoprefer said:
Anyone use bass bodies from these guys? How good is the quality? and are they compatible with fender replacement parts (neck pocket standard fender size)?
Click to expand...

From the website:

These have industry standard 2 7/16" wide neck pockets- and can accept Fender licensed necks and our entire line of Bass replacement necks.
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Most of the bodies are made from paulownia, which is a pretty light and soft wood. The routing on the bodies looks pretty cavernous, and they're not drilled for the bridge. All in all, I guess you can't expect much for $50.


EDIT to clarify: $50 for an unfinished body. $55-$60 for a finished one.
 
#3
I have a couple P-bass bodies. Very light. The routes for the pickups aren't very well done, but they are covered up by the pickkguard. I have one body I finished, and one of the painted bodies. The painted body looks really nice, definetly worth the $50 I paid for it.

The neck pockets are 2 7/16, and I thought the standard fender heel was 2 1/2. I measured my neck pockets, and they are smaller than 2 1/2. You might have to move some wood to get a fender neck to fit, but I don't have any experience trying.
 
#4
Alrighty, thanks guys. I have no problem drilling for the bridge or putting some wood strips in the neck pocket. The pup route is not a big deal at all for me since a pickguard will cover all of it and if its too gigantic i can do some filling. I'm planning on finishing it myself with a surf green color so I'll be getting an unfinished one.

How soft is the body wood? Will it dent and chip easily from just regular use? I'm generally pretty easy on instruments and this will just be a backup. so I'm not too worried, but I don't want a horn breaking off if I drop it on a concrete floor haha.
 
#5
I have one of those very same bodies right here:::



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100_7893.jpg


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Soft? Yes - but not too bad.

Light? Uh Huh! The whole bass weighs just 6lbs. While you're at it, buy their great p'ups too - I got the non-overwound style and they rock!



I used my own homemade sanding sealer and a few coats of brushed on Min-Wax clear and then just waxed it a few times.
 
#6
SurferJoe46 said:
I have one of those very same bodies right here:::

Soft? Yes - but not too bad.

Light? Uh Huh! The whole bass weighs just 6lbs. While you're at it, buy their great p'ups too - I got the non-overwound style and they rock!

I used my own homemade sanding sealer and a few coats of brushed on Min-Wax clear and then just waxed it a few times.
Click to expand...

That looks great!! Looks a little mis-matched from the back, but otherwise great! And holy crap that is a HUGE pup route!!! At least it's easily covered:P thanks for the pics bro:)

Anything on their necks? I'm skeptical because of the price... I've been looking at warmoth necks because of all the good word that they seem to get around here.

EDIT: also, what of their pickguards and knobs?
 
#7
If it's not Fender licensed, I stay away. Necks or bodies, I've been burned once, that's one time too many.
Spending the 100 bucks or so on a Mighty Mite body is worth it over dealing with the aggravation of trying to take 1/16" out of a neck pocket width, and keeping it centered and square on top of that IMO.

SurferJoe, that bass looks great! Is it a 34" scale? The bridge looks like it's mounted closer to the neck in the third photo, different than what I'm used to seeing on stock P basses anyway.
 
#8
They are very light and look pretty good. The neck pocket will need to be enlarged a little if you want to use a Fender spec neck. Don't put a Warmoth neck on it...you'll be getting some serious neck dive because they tend to be heavy. And plan on using small or ultralight tuners to avoid that problem as well. But for what they cost it's pretty good. The one I had sounded fine, pretty similar to an alder P bass. The only real annoying part would be drilling for the bridge ground if you don't have really long drill bits.
 
#10
dave120 said:
They are very light and look pretty good. The neck pocket will need to be enlarged a little if you want to use a Fender spec neck. Don't put a Warmoth neck on it...you'll be getting some serious neck dive because they tend to be heavy. And plan on using small or ultralight tuners to avoid that problem as well. But for what they cost it's pretty good. The one I had sounded fine, pretty similar to an alder P bass. The only real annoying part would be drilling for the bridge ground if you don't have really long drill bits.
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Thanks for the heads up on the weight of warmoth necks! I didn't even think about the neck dive issue:P I may look into getting a squier neck then. They tend to be pretty light from my experience and slightly smaller at the heel if I remember right? My father has some pretty long bits, but that probably wouldn't be long enough.... May have to run to home depot for that:P
 
#11
I used the GF neck too. I actually think the necks are pretty good - not Fender quality - but they are straight and hold so without any troubles.

I even bought another for my next project. It too is straight.

Here's something to know though: the neck pocket on the GF body is too large for the neck. You can use shims, and I refused to so I am living proof that a tight pocket isn't a do-or-die necessity.

The biggest problem I had with the body rout is that the screws for the PG are into voids. BUT you can build small tabs out of wood and use them for the screws and that works out fine.

BTW: Everything on the GF bass is from GF - tuners, knobs, bridge, neck, body, PG and all.

Oh yeah - I used some new Fender Gearhead 250 Ohm pots, but everything else is GF.

A short story about needing long drill bits: I didn't for this body. I had the body in my hands and just was gonna use my Dremel for the first alignment of the bridge, and the bit was about 4-inches long.

After I had what I figured was the correct alignment, I stuck a long Tee-handled allen into the hole to see the angle - and I just pushed it through to the control cavity. Neat huh?
 
#12
SurferJoe46 said:
I used the GF neck too. I actually think the necks are pretty good - not Fender quality - but they are straight and hold so without any troubles.

I even bought another for my next project. It too is straight.

Here's something to know though: the neck pocket on the GF body is too large for the neck. You can use shims, and I refused to so I am living proof that a tight pocket isn't a do-or-die necessity.

The biggest problem I had with the body rout is that the screws for the PG are into voids. BUT you can build small tabs out of wood and use them for the screws and that works out fine.

BTW: Everything on the GF bass is from GF - tuners, knobs, bridge, neck, body, PG and all.

Oh yeah - I used some new Fender Gearhead 250 Ohm pots, but everything else is GF.
Click to expand...

nice! i was looking at the "bass kits" and i think i'll order a P-bass one when they're back in stock and upgrade the pots, jack and cap to my preferred stuff soon as i get it.

how are the fret jobs on those necks? i guess its all so cheap that i could take it to a shop and still come out with a very low cost build:P
 
#18
A-Step-Towards said:
I dunno squier affinity bodies look better IMO. I would get a used affinity , should be easy to get one for 100$ or less i bought one for 50$ , one for 55$ and another for 40$ and all the parts are there
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spent today looking at used squier P bodies in my area. everything is either beat to crap (cracks and gouges EVERYWHERE) or way over priced. portland seems to be abusive or totally snobby with the squiers. and i'd rather get a blank and learn how to do a proper finish without going through the headache of stripping a body anyway. and the parts that come on those affinity's are mostly garbage from my experiences with them. once its all said and done, the GF package build would be cheaper than a squier build.
 
#20
A-Step-Towards said:
Portland Oregon?

they must just give squiers away where i live then , i always find them for way little $.
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Yup. Rarely ever a blank squier P body that isn't beat to hell or stoopidly high priced. On occasion there's a good deal on a whole bass in decent condition, but they're usually too far out of my way to get anything. Like right now theres one in Kelso Washington for $70 and one in Vancouver Washington for $110. Vancouver isn't a bad trip from here but the price is pretty steep if I'm only using the body and MAYBE neck and I don't wanna drive out there to try haggling and end up getting nowhere on price and just waste the gas.
 

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