Hardware/Auto store, filler putty + cheap spray paint recommendations

[Blackjac97]

Hello all,

I have a cheap bass body that has moved with me over the years, unfinished.

Over the years, it has accumulated a couple chips in the wood around the neck pocket.

I want to fill the chips with some kind of putty to make the neck pocket appear square around the edge again, and then paint it white as cheaply as possible.

I care about fast and hard drying more than getting the absolute best quality possible. Just a basic clean white finish.

What is a good brand of filler to fill a chip? What paint brands at the auto store or hardware store do you recommend? I can get Rustoleum, Krylon, and Duplicolor pretty easily. Maybe there's another brand you've seen or used that's flown under my radar?

I did do a few searches, and was surprised that nothing came up that matched what I'm asking.

Thank you

 

[Matt Liebenau]

For a solid color you can use just about anything for filler. Dedicated wood filler like Timbermate. I've even used the store brand from Ace hardware. Bondo is an option also.

TB has a rattle can refinish club. Look them up. Should be some good advice there. Rattle Can Refinish Club Also, if you look up Brad Angove on YouTube, he's done a number of videos about getting a good finish with spray cans.

As far as easily available, Duplicolor is a good brand. There's Reranch online if you're sold on nitrocellulose lacquer. I'd recommend sticking with one brand and product line from primer to clear to help avoid compatibility issues from mixing paint.

 

[Gilmourisgod]

I use Minwax High Performance Wood Filler, which is just bondo with some kind of wood dust in it. Supposedly stainable, but it doesnt absorb stain like wood, so i only use it for opaque finishes. Most of the wood fillers ive tried tend to absorb paint, or shrink a little over time, so the repair eventually telegraphs through the paint, havent had that problem with the Minwax bondo. For paint, i like the Rustoleum Painters Touch brand, they have big buttons and dont seem to clog up. Reranch makes some nice nitro colors, but unless you want a relic finish, avoid nitro. Its basically a self-destroying finish, vulnerable to sweat, alcohol, and pretty much everything else likely to contact a guitar. Its also highly poisonous. If you dont have one, get a respirator (not a dust mask) rated for organic vapor, all of this stuff will fry your lungs. Whatever brand you use, get clearcoat of the same brand so you know its compatible. For most laquer and enamel, it needs to cure for at least a few weeks before level sanding and buffing, if you plan on doing any of that. If not, just give it a couple weeks before you start playing it to let it offgass. Good Luck! +1 on Brad Angove videos on YT, good solid advice and technique.

 

[Blackjac97]

Great advice, thank you both! I have watched Brad's videos in the past and totally spaced on them, I will revisit.

I think I will avoid Nitro. I don't want to deal with having to wait for paint to arrive, along with the other downsides you listed Gilmour.

That minwax filler sounds like just the ticket.

Is an enamel or lacquer better for this type of thing, in anyone's experience?

 

[friskinator]

I used Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty for filling small chips and holes. Dries fast and is easy to sand. The small tube will last forever. Highly recommend.

https://www.amazon.com/Bondo-907-Glazing-Spot-Putty/dp/B0002JM8PY

For color, I've been using Krylon Colormaxx Paint and Primer all-in-one rattle cans. $5 a can. Once you scuff sand and prep the original finish, just spray right on. I recently used it for this project and sprayed right over a black original finish.

For clear, I use Minwax gloss lacquer in a can. Available most anywhere for around $10. Use 2.

 

[Blackjac97]

I used Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty for filling small chips and holes. Dries fast and is easy to sand. The small tube will last forever. Highly recommend.

https://www.amazon.com/Bondo-907-Glazing-Spot-Putty/dp/B0002JM8PY

For color, I've been using Krylon Colormaxx Paint and Primer all-in-one rattle cans. $5 a can. Once you scuff sand and prep the original finish, just spray right on. I recently used it for this project and sprayed right over a black original finish.

View attachment 4206463


For clear, I use Minwax gloss lacquer in a can. Available most anywhere for around $10. Use 2.

I saw that body for sale in the classifieds, it looks great! I'm genuinely impressed that it went on over black without a dedicated primer phase.

 

[friskinator]

I saw that body for sale in the classifieds, it looks great! I'm genuinely impressed that it went on over black without a dedicated primer phase.

I was impressed, too. I've been experimenting with the all-in-one cans, and they seem to work well. Plus, there are a ton of unique colors to choose from. Some even get pretty close to the vintage Fender colors.

 

[Blackjac97]

Well, I thought I wanted white, but I am digging A LOT of the colormaxx colors!

 

[fhm555]

I second the glazing putty and if the wood is bare, clean it good and scuff it with 320, then shoot it with rattle can enamel. If it's got poly on it already fill your divots, then scuff it with 320 and shoot it with rattle can enamel. If you want a glossy finish use gloss paint, if you want flat or satin, use flat or satin paint. Once it's cured, if it's gloss, wet sand it with 400 then 600 and call it good. Rattle can enamel is tough enough to do fine without clear coat so save yourself the additional trouble.

 

[Blackjac97]

Alright, so I checked walmart first looking for Krylon Colormaxx. They didn't have that, but they had Rustoleum "American Accents" (not painters touch but looks identical with maybe slightly different colors) flat white primer and 2x satin white. I picked up a semi gloss clear just in case I want to gloss it up a little bit.

They didn't have the glazing putty at walmart or home depot. And, my local HD no longer carries minwax, all varathane now. But I found a Bondo can that looks similar to the minwax high performance filler. Stainable, fast dry, non shrinking, etc. The non shrinking is what I really want.

I'm going to fill the chip, probably the pickguard screw holes as well (not going to use them), then sand to 320, and hit with the first coat of primer.

 

[Gilmourisgod]

Yeah, glazing putty is fine for really small nicks.and dings, or air holes bondo, but you'll usually only find it in Autozone or similar, some hardware stores carry it too.

 

[fhm555]

Alright, so I checked walmart first looking for Krylon Colormaxx. They didn't have that, but they had Rustoleum "American Accents" (not painters touch but looks identical with maybe slightly different colors) flat white primer and 2x satin white. I picked up a semi gloss clear just in case I want to gloss it up a little bit.

They didn't have the glazing putty at walmart or home depot. And, my local HD no longer carries minwax, all varathane now. But I found a Bondo can that looks similar to the minwax high performance filler. Stainable, fast dry, non shrinking, etc. The non shrinking is what I really want.

I'm going to fill the chip, probably the pickguard screw holes as well (not going to use them), then sand to 320, and hit with the first coat of primer.

You can get as much gloss with some rubbing/buffing compound as you can with semi gloss clear without the extra paint steps. You can sit in front of the boob tube a few nights with an old bath towel, an old T shirt and some compound and turn satin into a nice semi gloss.

 

[Blackjac97]

I threw the glazing putty in with the amazon order. Yes, seems like the wood filler is better for what I need but seems good to have it. There are two chips, and both are about an inch long. Not very deep though.

 

[JW56789]

Two tips from my rattle-can, model-building days:

BE SURE you use the same kind of primer (and be sure you use primer first: Paint sticks to primer, and primer sticks to the original surface), color coat, and clear topcoat. Ya DON'T want to mix lacquer with polyurethane or other tragic mismatches.

Strangely enough (as if there weren't enough bad habits in this world), a lot of times, the Big Box stores will have a limited supply of spray paint . . . . . to cut down on the number of their 'huffing' customers. What a world . . . . so an auto parts store (you'll be surprised how many car colors end up on guitars) or online may be required.

And always, let your spray cans stand in hot tap water for 5-10 minutes, and get this part right: ONLY hot water from the tap. DO NOT, puh-leeze, DO NOT put a spray can in boiling water . . . . unless you really want a big and possibly dangerous mess. I'm not talking down to you, I just want anybody else reading this to get THIS part RIGHT. Once the paint is warmed, it sprays much more evenly, a lot easier to manage your passes back and forth.

Good Luck !

JW

 

[Arie X]

fwiw, i painted my first scratch build guitar in junior hs with Krylon appliance paint. an exquisite almond hue with 'no-smudge' texture. 39 years later it's still on there.

 

[Bob_Ross]

I used Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty for filling small chips and holes.

I've never done this sort of work myself, but a former bandmate was a huge fan of Bondo for all sorts of guitar body repairs, and his repairs all came out functionally fine.

Aesthetically, not so much ...but I don't blame the Bondo for that.