Help Me Target a Year and Model of Precision (PBass)

[TroyK]

Looking for some help from the experts here. I've been casually shopping for a PBass and plan to get serious this year. I need some help targeting which years and models to seek and which to avoid. I was looking at an Am Pro recently and you guys warned me about the pickup, which just led me to some reading comments about which years truss rods changed and what was better and worse about them. I don't buy, own, or flip a lot of basses, so I'd like to go on a mission to find a good one for me with some date and model parameters.

I've owned a couple of American Standard Jazz basses and I owned a fretless P for a while, that I miss. I also had a Stingray for a while. My only electric bass currently is a passive Warwick Corvette.

Up front:
Yes, I know that I want a P-Bass. I am primarily an upright player and the wide nut, heavy neck is more comfortable to me than the jazz spacing and I miss that sound.

What I know that I want:
PBass
4 String
Passive
Split Coil
Wide nut spacing
Substantial neck
I have a slight preference for maple fingerboards, but it's not absolute
I have some color preferences, but that's not absolute either

What I'm open about:
Made in USA, Japan, or Mexico
Fender, G&L, Nash...other things as long as they fit the "what I know I want" list
New or used

What I don't want:
Active electronics
Anything that isn't a P-Bass configuration (I had a Sting Ray, I know there are other things, I'm looking for what I'm looking for)
More than 4 Strings
Narrow Nut Spacing (I think the G&Ls and some of the Nash's have JBass spacing)
Pre-CBS, super-vintage, grail type basses. This is just going to be a working instrument for me and my upright is still going to get the overwhelming amount of the work.

________________________________________________________
I've done pickup swaps, I'm open to that, if the economics make sense. Same goes for bridges, tuning machines, pickguards, etc. As long as the economics make sense.

I don't know if I should care about string-through-body bridge options. It's cool. I don't know if it matters or not.

Evidently there was a before and after on truss rods, that sounds important, but I'm unclear on which models and years.

Weight? Seems important to you guys. I don't think it's a huge deal to me within reason.

I helped a teenager I know buy a used Mexican (Player) and fell in love with playing it, especially after I swapped the strings and did a setup for him. I wouldn't rule it out.

I *think* a 10-20 year old American Standard would be a good bass and I've been told that a certain era of Japanese Fenders are the thing, but I don't know if it's all years or some.

I like G&L, but I wouldn't buy one without playing it, because it seems the LB100 (or whatever) has a narrower nut than I'm looking for. I know Nash makes a good instrument, but the one I tried had the narrow nut. I know that I could get a standard width one, but I'm unconvinced that the price premium would be worth it for me. Convince me.

I'm not opposed to a new Mod Shop order too, they aren't much more expensive than the AM Pro II and I could specify the pickup, fingerboard, color and everything I want. Is it worth the extra money, though? I don't know what I don't know at this point. That's where you are all going to help me out.

Thank you!

 

[Makoa Johnson]

I'm gonna be that guy that just says go see what your local stores have in stock and pick the one that feels best to play. The thing is in the p-bass space there are so many options now that are in specs very similar, and then a few options that are noticeably variant but still get put under the precision umbrella.
But maybe more to the point of your thread, based on your wants list it sounds like something like the current Fender Vintera line (or whatever that series was called in previous years) might be a good place to start your search. Happy hunting!

 

[jeff62]

There is no good or bad years. There are just basses that you jive with and those you don’t. Play any that you are interested in, provided that they aren’t active or that aren’t the wide nut, and if you like it then it’s the one for you. About the only thing that will make a difference at that point is a pickup swap if you seek a slightly different flavor.

 

[Michael Milner]

My preference is for the option to string through the body, so I would be looking at an American Pro 2. However, you might want to consider a Lakland Skyline. I have one ( a J bass, not a P), and it is a very good instrument for the money (IMHO). Cheers.

 

[TroyK]

My preference is for the option to string through the body, so I would be looking at an American Pro 2. However, you might want to consider a Lakland Skyline. I have one ( a J bass, not a P), and it is a very good instrument for the money (IMHO). Cheers.

I like the design of the Laklands, but to the best of my knowledge, they are all active. Am I mistaken?

When I posted about an Am Pro (I) that I was looking at, I got strongly warned off on the pickup. The (II) is described the same way, did the fix whatever the issue was?

 

[Makoa Johnson]

I like the design of the Laklands, but to the best of my knowledge, they are all active. Am I mistaken?

The 44-64 is their fully passive P style

 

[Moving Pictures]

I agree with these guys. Go play what you can at a couple of stores and see what speaks to you. Based on your list I will point you to the Fender Vintera II and American Vintage II series. The American Original series may also be worth a look.

Good luck on your quest.

 

[Moving Pictures]

I like the design of the Laklands, but to the best of my knowledge, they are all active. Am I mistaken?

When I posted about an Am Pro (I) that I was looking at, I got strongly warned off on the pickup. The (II) is described the same way, did the fix whatever the issue was?

Having had a Pro I and still owning a Pro II, the pickup was tweaked for the II and sounds better than the one in the Pro II. I would demo one before you buy. While it does the pbass sound it is a modern version of the pbass sound.

 

[ajkula66]

Given your description, the first thing that came to my mind was an AVRI '58...

 

[matti777]

The 44-64 is their fully passive P style

The Skylines are over 10 lbs last I saw.

 

[turf3]

I'm not really an electric player, but honestly I don't see anything I don't like about my 20 year old Squier P-Bass made in Indonesia (I joke it's so cheap you don't even get the "Recision"). I put a quick setup on it, the neck wasn't twisted, new strings and I was off to the races. A couple nicer pickups might be a good idea someday.

Let's face it, they're just slabs of wood with minimal electronics. Get the action and neck relief right, the frets set nicely, and some good strings, and there's not much else there.

 

[dbsfgyd1]

Looking for some help from the experts here. I've been casually shopping for a PBass and plan to get serious this year. I need some help targeting which years and models to seek and which to avoid. I was looking at an Am Pro recently and you guys warned me about the pickup, which just led me to some reading comments about which years truss rods changed and what was better and worse about them. I don't buy, own, or flip a lot of basses, so I'd like to go on a mission to find a good one for me with some date and model parameters.

I've owned a couple of American Standard Jazz basses and I owned a fretless P for a while, that I miss. I also had a Stingray for a while. My only electric bass currently is a passive Warwick Corvette.

Up front:
Yes, I know that I want a P-Bass. I am primarily an upright player and the wide nut, heavy neck is more comfortable to me than the jazz spacing and I miss that sound.

What I know that I want:
PBass
4 String
Passive
Split Coil
Wide nut spacing
Substantial neck
I have a slight preference for maple fingerboards, but it's not absolute
I have some color preferences, but that's not absolute either

What I'm open about:
Made in USA, Japan, or Mexico
Fender, G&L, Nash...other things as long as they fit the "what I know I want" list
New or used

What I don't want:
Active electronics
Anything that isn't a P-Bass configuration (I had a Sting Ray, I know there are other things, I'm looking for what I'm looking for)
More than 4 Strings
Narrow Nut Spacing (I think the G&Ls and some of the Nash's have JBass spacing)
Pre-CBS, super-vintage, grail type basses. This is just going to be a working instrument for me and my upright is still going to get the overwhelming amount of the work.

________________________________________________________
I've done pickup swaps, I'm open to that, if the economics make sense. Same goes for bridges, tuning machines, pickguards, etc. As long as the economics make sense.

I don't know if I should care about string-through-body bridge options. It's cool. I don't know if it matters or not.

Evidently there was a before and after on truss rods, that sounds important, but I'm unclear on which models and years.

Weight? Seems important to you guys. I don't think it's a huge deal to me within reason.

I helped a teenager I know buy a used Mexican (Player) and fell in love with playing it, especially after I swapped the strings and did a setup for him. I wouldn't rule it out.

I *think* a 10-20 year old American Standard would be a good bass and I've been told that a certain era of Japanese Fenders are the thing, but I don't know if it's all years or some.

I like G&L, but I wouldn't buy one without playing it, because it seems the LB100 (or whatever) has a narrower nut than I'm looking for. I know Nash makes a good instrument, but the one I tried had the narrow nut. I know that I could get a standard width one, but I'm unconvinced that the price premium would be worth it for me. Convince me.

I'm not opposed to a new Mod Shop order too, they aren't much more expensive than the AM Pro II and I could specify the pickup, fingerboard, color and everything I want. Is it worth the extra money, though? I don't know what I don't know at this point. That's where you are all going to help me out.

Thank you!

I have a N series (1990s) MIA Fender PBj. It's one of the best PB's I've played, live or in the studio. I've owned it for 20 now, and it's going to the grave with me. I also have an N series MIA Strat that also is a cut above. Keep in mind, I started out playing the Vintage PBs that everybody is paying big bucks to get. This is a better instrument.

 

[TroyK]

I have a N series (1990s) MIA Fender PBj. It's one of the best PB's I've played, live or in the studio. I've owned it for 20 now, and it's going to the grave with me. I also have an N series MIA Strat that also is a cut above. Keep in mind, I started out playing the Vintage PBs that everybody is paying big bucks to get. This is a better instrument.

That's a great response, thank you.

 

[dbsfgyd1]

That's a great response, thank you.

Your welcome. I honestly believe that this is the next series collectors are going to be looking for. Over the years I've had a lot of complements from my band mates & sound engineers. I tend to play in larger ensembles and it sits in the mix so well. Don't misunderstand, it can also punch through brick wall , or enough bright to shatter glass if you want it too.

Musically, I've covered genres from Motown to punk rock, classic rock to disco, Light jazz to blues, country to contemporary Christian with it. Zero complaints. I think the best way to describe that versatility, while the tone setting may change on the bass and or amp, in my opinion it always sounds appropriate.

Best wishes and good hunting.

 

[noahw1]

It seems you might be over thinking things a bit. Everyone is going to have a gripe with something - it’s the nature of our online world. That pickup that you’ve been told is terrible might not be terrible to you.
Get something you like and makes you want to play it. You’re going to find something great.
Good luck on the hunt.

 

[Sam Dingle]

Looking for some help from the experts here. I've been casually shopping for a PBass and plan to get serious this year. I need some help targeting which years and models to seek and which to avoid. I was looking at an Am Pro recently and you guys warned me about the pickup, which just led me to some reading comments about which years truss rods changed and what was better and worse about them. I don't buy, own, or flip a lot of basses, so I'd like to go on a mission to find a good one for me with some date and model parameters.

I've owned a couple of American Standard Jazz basses and I owned a fretless P for a while, that I miss. I also had a Stingray for a while. My only electric bass currently is a passive Warwick Corvette.

Up front:
Yes, I know that I want a P-Bass. I am primarily an upright player and the wide nut, heavy neck is more comfortable to me than the jazz spacing and I miss that sound.

What I know that I want:
PBass
4 String
Passive
Split Coil
Wide nut spacing
Substantial neck
I have a slight preference for maple fingerboards, but it's not absolute
I have some color preferences, but that's not absolute either

What I'm open about:
Made in USA, Japan, or Mexico
Fender, G&L, Nash...other things as long as they fit the "what I know I want" list
New or used

What I don't want:
Active electronics
Anything that isn't a P-Bass configuration (I had a Sting Ray, I know there are other things, I'm looking for what I'm looking for)
More than 4 Strings
Narrow Nut Spacing (I think the G&Ls and some of the Nash's have JBass spacing)
Pre-CBS, super-vintage, grail type basses. This is just going to be a working instrument for me and my upright is still going to get the overwhelming amount of the work.

________________________________________________________
I've done pickup swaps, I'm open to that, if the economics make sense. Same goes for bridges, tuning machines, pickguards, etc. As long as the economics make sense.

I don't know if I should care about string-through-body bridge options. It's cool. I don't know if it matters or not.

Evidently there was a before and after on truss rods, that sounds important, but I'm unclear on which models and years.

Weight? Seems important to you guys. I don't think it's a huge deal to me within reason.

I helped a teenager I know buy a used Mexican (Player) and fell in love with playing it, especially after I swapped the strings and did a setup for him. I wouldn't rule it out.

I *think* a 10-20 year old American Standard would be a good bass and I've been told that a certain era of Japanese Fenders are the thing, but I don't know if it's all years or some.

I like G&L, but I wouldn't buy one without playing it, because it seems the LB100 (or whatever) has a narrower nut than I'm looking for. I know Nash makes a good instrument, but the one I tried had the narrow nut. I know that I could get a standard width one, but I'm unconvinced that the price premium would be worth it for me. Convince me.

I'm not opposed to a new Mod Shop order too, they aren't much more expensive than the AM Pro II and I could specify the pickup, fingerboard, color and everything I want. Is it worth the extra money, though? I don't know what I don't know at this point. That's where you are all going to help me out.

Thank you!

Troy you listed everything I look for in a P bass.

After moving to Nashville I became a P bass Junkie trying to find one I connected with

Following your list with a focus on standard p bass, American fender, wide nut fat neck and maple board you perfectly described a Fender American vintage 58 P bass made between 2013-16 (maybe 17).

It has a fat neck and they sound incredible. You can find them in black and white and sometimes sunburst but those are harder to find I found.

If it interests you I know of one here in Nashville for a great price, dm me if you want.

Other than that a fender road worn bass is a great bass but more of a skinny and wide neck. You need to find a 2008 or 2009 they changed after 2010. From the same year as the 58 American vintage the 63 American vintage P has a wide neck, thicker than the road worn, and a little skinnier than the 58 but the nut feels a little wider imo.


The American vintage and road worn from those years imo are better than most American standard basses I’ve tried and you’ll like the necks better

 

[BobKos]

I respect that you know what you are looking for. I am more of a Jazz guy but the absolute BEST P-Bass I own and have ever played is - don't laugh - a Squire Matt Freeman model. Absolutely WONDERFUL P-Bass. I have owned and still own some decent P-Basses, I own many better production and custom Jazz Basses, and other mid range production basses (EBMM etc) but the Matt Freeman bass is the best P-Bass for me. If you have the opportunity to audition one, do not walk past it because it is a Squire. The only box it doesn't check is the fat neck. It's not a Jazz bass neck but it's not a super chunky neck either. Still I think if you play one you will like it and you will buy it. Good luck in your search.

 

[Bar Band Bassman]

MIM Vintera (I) P-bass. 1.75" nut. A real pleasure/pain to play. I have two. Gigged one yesterday. Glad I did.

BBB

 

[micguy]

You're missing the forest for the trees. If you're a collector, you care about years, colors, models - all that. But you're not. You're a musician - right?

Precision basses (and even P basses made by other companies) are all very similar - year to year, model to model, the point is not any of that - they are mass produced items where the variation between units is often greater than the difference between years or models - the wood varies (among other things). The point is, you want something with a straight neck (everything else is easily fixable) that, when you pick it up and play it, you are inspired to play so much that you'll actually practice. Everything else is secondary - a great bass is one where the owner plays it so much that he (or she) gets really good - the bass is only a gateway to helping the player get good.

Forget about models, year, or even who made the thing. Go out and play everything you can find in a store. When you find a bass that you can't imagine putting back on the wall, that's your bass. Buy that bass. Go home and practice your ass off. After a while, people will be amazed at how great your bass is. But it won't really be the bass; it'll be because you put in the practice time to get good yourself, and now that bass sounds great because it's in your hands.

 

[Lowend65]

I think I understand what you're looking for, and shall direct you to

https://reverb.com/item/77656093-keith-holland-custom-pbass-ans-1279-electric-blue-metallic-nitro-w-gator-transit-gig-bag

This is a PBass as it gets. American made, top of the line pickups. A set of Flatwound strings and you have your Jazz-gig bass for well under $2k
Note I don't work for Keith Holland - Get nothing if you buy this. ...But I've played this bass a few times, it's outstanding.

Listed	8 months ago
Condition	Excellent (Used)
Brand	Keith Holland Custom
Model	PBASS-ANS #1279
Finish	Electric Blue Metallic Nitro
Categories	4-String
Finish Style	Satin
Frets	Medium Jumbo
Right / Left Handed	Right Handed
Nut Width	1.5"
Active / Passive Pickups	Passive Pickups
Neck Material	Maple
Offset Body	Non-Offset Body
Body Material	Alder
Finish Features	Relic
Pickup Configuration	Split-Coil
Number of Strings	4-String
Fretboard Radius	14"
Scale Length	34"
Body Shape	P-Style