Hi guys I am trying to make a home made caliper and I came out with a simple design.. it can use magnets or springs if somebody got a simpler design??? {} {}
a real dial caliper is not that expensive http://www.amazon.com/Oshlun-MTDCF-..._2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1297717192&sr=1-2
I do - I used a simple rubber band to return the needle back to "0.0". There are many ways to do this, but the biggest problem I found is: the jaws of the whole thing flexed too much to be accurate. I made the "U" from 3/4" plywood, and that wasn't strong enough. At the time I made my bass I didn't care too much, because I knew that the final scraping will be done based on feel, flexing, etc, and the specific measurements were just a starting point. But if I wanted to make a similar thickness gauge now, I would probably look at steel frame, or something that flexes the least. George
A real caliper with jaw capacity of up to 15" or so is gonna cost you a few hundred at least http://www.internationalviolin.com/item_detail.aspx?ItemCode=T28 George
I don't think the string-and-pulley concept will work well. Too much slop and flexibility. You're trying to measure thousandths of an inch. If I were building one, I would start with a cheap dial indicator and mount it on a sturdy wood frame like the one in rgarcia26's post. http://www.harborfreight.com/1-inch-travel-machinists-dial-indicator-623.html
watch the sales at Harbor freight and you can pick up a digital head with a full inch of opeing so it is easy to slip over the edge of the plate. they are also bi lingual metric and sae
That looks terrific. The only thing I might change would be to orient the dial indicator so that when you are holding the frame by the middle of the 'C' frame. the dial is facing you.
If I was to make another one (I probably will) I'd use one of these http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Digital-Prob...09?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item1e6181e635 and make sure the frame is light and stiff. The problem with the dial indicators is that the measurement you want is given on the SMALL dial. On a bass you're only going to need the closest mm or .5mm.
I think the analog jobs would be workable, but if you wanted digital, Harbor Freight has those for cheaps too -- though not as cheap as the mechanical ones. http://www.harborfreight.com/1-inch-sae-metric-digital-indicator-93295.html
Correct, well Mat you are pretty familiar with the project that I am working right now I think I need one of this for the Sound post patch
That is not bad at all, I just need to figured out the best way to attach it to a C clamp style frame
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