How important is the string tree/guide

The guide, as I understand it, is to cause break over the nut i.e. the string sits in the nut properly, seated into the rut, and breaks over the nut toward the tuners, so that an open string sounds from the nut when played.

Is the guide for all strings or just 2?

If there is enough break over the nut to play open strings there shouldn't be any issue. If there is not enough break over the nut you'll find it difficult to tune up and at that point I'd wait for the string guide.

Loosen the strings again before installing the new guide.

 

It won't hurt anything. Give it a shot.

 

Good chance the strings will rattle in the nut without a tree to provide the hard break over the nut. Just like the A string rattles if you don't wind it low enough on the tuner.

If you don't use a tree, you want to wind those strings as low on the tuner as you can get them.

 

No.

 

I've removed the string tree on all my Fender style basses. I just run the string wraps around the tuner post down to the headstock and it works fine for me. It also seems to improve the response of the D and G strings.

 

Installation tip:

If there is an existing mounting hole for the string tree, good - just mount it there.

If there is not a screw hole already in the headstock to mount the tree, place the tree loose on the strings at or just below the A string tuner post to be sure the D & G strings remain straight when installed.
Drill a small guide hole into the headstock directly through the string tree to insure correct placement.

I've seen guys not place the tree correctly and the strings were not in a straight line between the nut and tuner posts.

 

I knew a guitarist that removed string trees. one day he asked me why his strings were buzzing. I asked him what happened to the string tree.

 

String trees are useful for:
1) Holding the strings down to make the angle over the nut a bit sharper, so they don't rattle,
2) Creating a defined witness point for stable tuning and intonation,
3) Deviding the relatively long lengths of string beyond the nut in shorter pieces, so these won't resonate sympathetically in a frequency range that can be incuced in the active length of the strings.

 

I've always wondered why basses don't come with a retainer on the "A" string, but Fender does put this on some of it's basses.
Stealth Bass String Retainer
Model #: 0078972049

 

There are "bar" style trees that cover all three strings. Just do a Google images search for bass string trees, and you will see lots of cool pics.

 

You just wind the string down to the deck and you don't need that thingy.

Simple.

Yet some reprobates howl in defiance that they shouldn't have to do five wraps instead of 2.5. Poor hard done by souls.

 

I agree with you, but really, how much extra would it cost to use a bar style that covers three strings?

 

Bar trees are fugly. Five winds and a button tree is pretty.

 

I have five wraps on my A string and it's rattling/buzzing from the tuning key area. I was thinking about trying one of those stealth guides to see if it solved the rattling issue.

 

The stealth retainer requires "ultralight" style tuners with the threaded through head ferrules. Doesn't work with vintage press in ferrules. So if you have the modern type, you're good to go.

I would look at the nut slot break angle first to make sure the string is properly seated at the fret edge of the nut.

 

Do the wraps go all the way down to the headstock ferrule at the bottom of the string post?

Is there a good witness point at the nut?

Is there some fall away at the headstock end of the nut slot?