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How long till I can sand/level shellac pre tru oil?

deepestend

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Feb 21, 2003
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Hey all,

I have used the shellac/truoil combo before and like the results. It's been a while and I don't think that I ever quite mastered it, though.

Fast forward to now: I just sprayed three quick coats of shellac through a preval on a pbass body (from flakes that I dissolved. I have it drying outside now and it feels dry.

Any advice on when I can level wet sand it and then spray a few coats of tru oil on top? Wait a few days or should I be able to do it in 24 hours?

thanks,
JR
 
You got it the right way round, Tru oil underneath would accomplish nothing as shellac pops the grain just as well. 24 hours is plenty of drying time, however shellac doesn't really sand very well/easily. So take care, if it just has a slight textured feel to it then just scuff sand it with 600 on a block with no pressure.
 
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I would assume that shellac would dry pretty quickly as DNA is a very quick drying solvent. 24 hours should be more than enough time, you would probably be ok after an hour or two.

That being said, I've never used shellac so take my advice at face value.
 
I would assume that shellac would dry pretty quickly as DNA is a very quick drying solvent. 24 hours should be more than enough time, you would probably be ok after an hour or two.

That being said, I've never used shellac so take my advice at face value.

You're right. Shellac dries very quickly due to the alcohol evaporating quickly. It should be dry to the touch in a few minutes. Sanding can usually be done in an hour or two depending upon temperature.
 
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Any advice on when I can level wet sand it and then spray a few coats of tru oil on top? Wait a few days or should I be able to do it in 24 hours?

You should have no issues after 24 hours, but my finish motto has ALWAYS been "the more drying time the better", so if you are not in a hurry and could give it an extra day, it sure wouldn't hurt and would probably help.

Shellac is awesome, isn't it? Nothing pops grain like it does.

Why not french polish?

French polish is just a method of using shellac and doesn't help with the water issue - which is why a lot of shellac finishes have tru-oil as the final topcoat. Keep water from getting in there and turning things white.
 
Shellac is an excellent foundation for just about any finish- dries fast and can be sanded soon after application if only doing a few coats. If multiple coats, the alcohol softens previously applied layers and requires additional drying time.

As for sanding, go as lightly as possible and re-touch by hand as needed.
 
I use shellac all the time in my woodshop...24 hrs is PLENTY of time, no matter what cut you used (ratio fo shellac flakes to alcohol)...instead of sanding, try using 0000 steel wool...easily available at home despot, and it does just enough to rough up the finish, so the tru oil can attach itself....personally, I'd go with a very thin coat of a 4-1 cut of shellac, just to pop the grain, then use something like a urathane over the top (unless you have what you need to do nitro...then go with that)
 
You should have no issues after 24 hours, but my finish motto has ALWAYS been "the more drying time the better", so if you are not in a hurry and could give it an extra day, it sure wouldn't hurt and would probably help.

Shellac is awesome, isn't it? Nothing pops grain like it does.



French polish is just a method of using shellac and doesn't help with the water issue - which is why a lot of shellac finishes have tru-oil as the final topcoat. Keep water from getting in there and turning things white.


Yes, but why not Tru Oil over French polish?
 
I use a light coat as a sealant then, later after a light pass with steel wool, use a less diluted mix to pop grain and add colour (I used garnet). Leave it overnight, a few light passes with wool and spply oil.