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How to apply a waterslide decal
- Thread starter noto
- Start date
- Dec 20, 2004
- 4,267
- 2,481
- Disclosures
- Player-Builder-Founder: Honey Badger Pickups & Regenerate Guitar Works
water slide decals!
I like how the decal was applied on this unit (lower center of image)
all the best,
R
I like how the decal was applied on this unit (lower center of image)
all the best,
R
water slide decals!
I like how the decal was applied on this unit (lower center of image)
all the best,
R
Hilarious.
I don't think you need to sand the area as long as it's got a clear coat to apply the decal on. Fender just applies the decal right on top. One of the decals I bought came with instructions.
They said,
Trim around the edge or outline of the decal. I've done it with small sheers or scissors.
Soak it in warm water for 40 - 90 seconds.
Put a drop of water on the headstock right on the area you'll be applying the decal.
Do that so you can move the decal freely if needed.
Look closely at a picture of a Fender so you put it in the right spot.
You should be able to slide the decal off the backing quite easily.
Slide it directly onto the headstock.
Pat dry lightly with a damp cloth. "Don't rub" just be gentle.
Let it dry for close to a day if you plan to put on a cover coat. But, like I said above, Fender doesn't apply a cover coat. The guy does say, Important... Do not put lacquer over polyurethane. They don't mix. It will blister, and bubble.
It's really just that simple.
good luck Brohiem!
They said,
Trim around the edge or outline of the decal. I've done it with small sheers or scissors.
Soak it in warm water for 40 - 90 seconds.
Put a drop of water on the headstock right on the area you'll be applying the decal.
Do that so you can move the decal freely if needed.
Look closely at a picture of a Fender so you put it in the right spot.
You should be able to slide the decal off the backing quite easily.
Slide it directly onto the headstock.
Pat dry lightly with a damp cloth. "Don't rub" just be gentle.
Let it dry for close to a day if you plan to put on a cover coat. But, like I said above, Fender doesn't apply a cover coat. The guy does say, Important... Do not put lacquer over polyurethane. They don't mix. It will blister, and bubble.
It's really just that simple.
good luck Brohiem!
SDB Guitars
Commercial User
I believe that Fender applies finish over their decals now... I know that they didn't back in the '50's and '60's...
You can apply lacquer over most decals, but you *must* use VERY LIGHT COATS or you can dissolve the decal. Nobody wants that.
Applying decals is not a touchy subject. Applying decals that make an instrument appear to be something it is not... now, *that* is a touchy subject.
You can apply lacquer over most decals, but you *must* use VERY LIGHT COATS or you can dissolve the decal. Nobody wants that.
Applying decals is not a touchy subject. Applying decals that make an instrument appear to be something it is not... now, *that* is a touchy subject.
good thread!
I don't wanna make a fake Fender, but want to refinish one's headstock, and re-apply the original decal (I think, there are companies which can print me waterslides), and maybe I need some own decals for my headstocks in the future.
I searched for Fender-style Windows font-sets, but none found... if you could help me, I would appreciate! I've got a self-made Strat copy, and thought of making a Fender-stíle logo for it, but with my own name.. similar to that ProjectGuitar link..
thanks in advance!
I don't wanna make a fake Fender, but want to refinish one's headstock, and re-apply the original decal (I think, there are companies which can print me waterslides), and maybe I need some own decals for my headstocks in the future.
I searched for Fender-style Windows font-sets, but none found... if you could help me, I would appreciate! I've got a self-made Strat copy, and thought of making a Fender-stíle logo for it, but with my own name.. similar to that ProjectGuitar link..
thanks in advance!
SDB Guitars
Commercial User
I have heard that if you can provide Fender with the proper info (serial number, etc.), they will send a replacement decal identical to the one you had
Check out some scale modeling websites - it is the same technique for adding the markings for a model airplane or car.
From what I remember, most guys put the decal over a gloss coat. There are also special products (available at your local hobby store) that act as surfactants to help the decal flatten out on the surface evenly - you don't want your bass looking like a 5th grader's weekend model airplane project!
imp
From what I remember, most guys put the decal over a gloss coat. There are also special products (available at your local hobby store) that act as surfactants to help the decal flatten out on the surface evenly - you don't want your bass looking like a 5th grader's weekend model airplane project!
imp
I used to be big in scale modeling and had my share of waterslide goodness and frustration...
apply over a gloss coat always. Future floor polish is an excellent glossing medium if it's flat finish. Decals do not handle flat finishes well, because there are micro chasms that the air gets trapped under and causes silvering of the decal which looks unprofessional.
If you wish to have the headstock look totally professional, take off the tuners and mask off everything so only the headstock shows. if you have an airbrush, fire it up and spray on a coat or two of future floor polish, but a run to walmart or local hobby shop would get you a very good gloos paint coat available in spray cans.
once the headstock is glossy and dried, apply decal by trimming very close to the actuall letters, holding the decal with tweezers and dunking it in lukewarm water for about 20 seconds. Let it sit on the table until you are able to move the decal around with a paintbrush w/o force. Then, take the whole thing (decal and backing sheet) and slide the decal off of the backing sheet onto the headstock. the decal should go on in a fashion that will push out airbubbles as it lays down.
from there, you can spray on another coat of gloss and then your choice of flat coat, matte coat, or just leave it glossed over.
take your time and never get forceful. If you rip the decal its possible to line it up hiding the tear pretty well but thats twice the work for you trying to line two pieces up with your intended place and with each other. Go slow and good luck!
apply over a gloss coat always. Future floor polish is an excellent glossing medium if it's flat finish. Decals do not handle flat finishes well, because there are micro chasms that the air gets trapped under and causes silvering of the decal which looks unprofessional.
If you wish to have the headstock look totally professional, take off the tuners and mask off everything so only the headstock shows. if you have an airbrush, fire it up and spray on a coat or two of future floor polish, but a run to walmart or local hobby shop would get you a very good gloos paint coat available in spray cans.
once the headstock is glossy and dried, apply decal by trimming very close to the actuall letters, holding the decal with tweezers and dunking it in lukewarm water for about 20 seconds. Let it sit on the table until you are able to move the decal around with a paintbrush w/o force. Then, take the whole thing (decal and backing sheet) and slide the decal off of the backing sheet onto the headstock. the decal should go on in a fashion that will push out airbubbles as it lays down.
from there, you can spray on another coat of gloss and then your choice of flat coat, matte coat, or just leave it glossed over.
take your time and never get forceful. If you rip the decal its possible to line it up hiding the tear pretty well but thats twice the work for you trying to line two pieces up with your intended place and with each other. Go slow and good luck!
btw if you have uneven contours (little scratches bumps and such) on the headstock, you can use a product called micro sol available from hobby shops that will melt the decal a little do settle over the contours without changing the shape of the letters at all. If you want a product not as strong, micro set is good (made my same company)
I honestly haven't spent much time looking at fonts, I've been too busy working/rehearsing/gigging to get onto the next project. Actually, the next project was to have been a Warmoth parts bass, but after the last (only) experience I had with them, I'll probably go with Allparts or a different vendor.
