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How to Build a Soundproof Studio
- Thread starter deepBassie
- Start date
It needs to built like any other basement that accounts for all the problems listed.
On the down side, carrying gear down into a basement isn't much more fun than carrying gear up to the second floor, since what goes in eventually must come out...
But seriously (since no one has mentioned this before), you might consider hiring an architect/acoustic designer, and even if you want to do a lot of the building yourself, think about having a contractor do the stuff that needs to be done right. When building my room, I had contractors do the concrete work (including the slab, the concrete filled cinderblock walls, the electrical, hvac, and plumbing. I did the interior buildout with one experienced carpenter - except for the drywall - but that happened at the end of a long process...
I'll tell you what I just did:
ROXUL AFB insulation 3" in walls and ceiling. Two layers in my ceiling one in the wall.
Mass loaded vinyl completely converting walls and ceiling. Attached to studs. 2 pound on walls, 1 pound weight on ceiling.
Quiet clips isolation clips on studs on ceiling and walls.
Hat tracks metal channels slid into quiet clips.
5/8 drywall attached to hat track.
Green Glue spread on a second layer of 5/8 drywall. Then attach that layer onto layer one. Overlapping seams.
Created a special soundproof access door for my HVAC vent so it can be opened when not playing and when playing it can be sealed To fully soundproof the room.
Use acoustic foam on about 70% of wall and ceiling to minimize flutter and echo that will occur because the sound has nowhere to go. Make the room sound good acoustically.
It worked.
ROXUL AFB insulation 3" in walls and ceiling. Two layers in my ceiling one in the wall.
Mass loaded vinyl completely converting walls and ceiling. Attached to studs. 2 pound on walls, 1 pound weight on ceiling.
Quiet clips isolation clips on studs on ceiling and walls.
Hat tracks metal channels slid into quiet clips.
5/8 drywall attached to hat track.
Green Glue spread on a second layer of 5/8 drywall. Then attach that layer onto layer one. Overlapping seams.
Created a special soundproof access door for my HVAC vent so it can be opened when not playing and when playing it can be sealed To fully soundproof the room.
Use acoustic foam on about 70% of wall and ceiling to minimize flutter and echo that will occur because the sound has nowhere to go. Make the room sound good acoustically.
It worked.
That sounds like you used all the right materials and techniques. How did all that cost if you don't mind my curiosity?
It adds up when doing it the right way and using quality materials. And the guys worked hard on it and earned the labor cost. I still need to get a "real" soundproof door. We made a makeshift one, but it's the weak point in an otherwise really well-done room.
And the door issue is being resolved with an exterior grade, double-door, PNL solid core with heavy-duty weather stripping and pre-hung with sill. Should work well when installed.
